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Old 06-11-2004, 04:03 PM   #2626
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Hebiki...

Can you PM me your setup too? I want to compare it with my "good for a few tracks" setup... Maybe I'll try something out this Sunday when I finally race with you in Pro Stock... Yupee! HAHA!

Sometimes I wonder why the 415 is so sensitive with changes... as small as a millimeter will drastically change the reaction of the car... I think the EvoIII is a lot more forgiving with regards to changes IMO... but is it faster? Hmmm... now, that's another story!

-Ian
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Old 06-11-2004, 04:14 PM   #2627
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Quote:
Originally posted by eeyan
Hebiki...

Can you PM me your setup too? I want to compare it with my "good for a few tracks" setup... Maybe I'll try something out this Sunday when I finally race with you in Pro Stock... Yupee! HAHA!

Sometimes I wonder why the 415 is so sensitive with changes... as small as a millimeter will drastically change the reaction of the car... I think the EvoIII is a lot more forgiving with regards to changes IMO... but is it faster? Hmmm... now, that's another story!

-Ian
pro stock? me? hahahha you got the wrong Chris.

plus you wont like my set up.. its completely opposite of your driving style remember?

are you for sure racing this sunday?
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Old 06-11-2004, 04:17 PM   #2628
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Chris Lim? Chris, is that you?

Yup, I'll be there this Sunday... I need to beat the #ell out of your 415... I got embarrassed the last time that I totally redid my EVOIII... now it's all shiny again...
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Old 06-11-2004, 04:37 PM   #2629
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Gearing a 19t is like gearing a P2K motor. Just toss on the gear baby!! Here for practice I go with 6.3 final. But I'm sure if it got down to racing I'd dip below 6 final. Kinda reminds me of 23t motors. Just gear the hell out of them. But like what was said.. watch the brushes....

For my Monster Stock... I start with 6.9 final and work my way down. I ran 6.3 before and seemed okay as long as I kept up corner speed. Around 6.6 is a good ratio for our track and layout. Alot depends on how your monster is tuned though.

Belts, With the kit belt I normally run 2 clicks tighter front and rear for both mod and stock. For Stock I could get away with 1 click tighter. 0 clicks I seemed to loose some acceleration but the car was hella free! I run a low friction belt now. I run them 1 click tighter front and rear. I'm actually thinking of goin to 0 clicks for the front belt for stock class.
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Old 06-11-2004, 04:39 PM   #2630
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im running 2 clicks at the moment and its pretty tight but ok. I wonder if i could go looser with 19t to about 1 click. With the new white belts are you able to run them looser?
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Old 06-11-2004, 04:52 PM   #2631
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Quote:
Originally posted by Evo_Uk
im running 2 clicks at the moment and its pretty tight but ok. I wonder if i could go looser with 19t to about 1 click. With the new white belts are you able to run them looser?
Evo_Uk.. did u cut the teeth? (every other tooth?) i noticed that with 1 click F/B... the belts were skipping in mod. but in 19T it was okay. my belts are unclipped... and they run great with 2 clicks F/B for both 19T and stock. probably will never use the car again in mod since it requires changing the clicks...
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Old 06-11-2004, 04:58 PM   #2632
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havent done the belt snipping nope, anyone done a spin count for how long there chassis spins for yet?
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Old 06-11-2004, 05:50 PM   #2633
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf

Belts, With the kit belt I normally run 2 clicks tighter front and rear for both mod and stock. For Stock I could get away with 1 click tighter. 0 clicks I seemed to loose some acceleration but the car was hella free! I run a low friction belt now. I run them 1 click tighter front and rear. I'm actually thinking of goin to 0 clicks for the front belt for stock class.
Guys can someone explain the tension on the belts.. it appears that you guys are actually tigthning the tension wont this slow you down ???

Sorry for the amaturish questions....
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Old 06-11-2004, 06:38 PM   #2634
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It may be more tension, but that is better than a flipped belt, or a skipping belt!!! I flipped TWO at REEDY!!!
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Old 06-11-2004, 06:50 PM   #2635
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If the belt is too loose, it will skip under heavy acceleration and braking. I personally felt the belts were too loose for my taste at 0 clicks. So I tighten them up a click or two. Now remember this, if the belts are loose, you'll gain top end but loose some acceleration. If they are tight, you'll gain acceleration but loose some top end. It's a trade off/compromise. Low friction belts help this out alittle. I'm just fine running my belts for stock or 10t mod. I don't yank the throttle in mod. But when I do, from time to time it might skip a hair.

I've also tried a clicked belt at 0 clicks and it was pretty free spinning for several seconds. And even did good with 1 click. But being that I practice with a 10t... I took off the belt.
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Old 06-11-2004, 07:07 PM   #2636
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
If the belt is too loose, it will skip under heavy acceleration and braking. I personally felt the belts were too loose for my taste at 0 clicks. So I tighten them up a click or two. Now remember this, if the belts are loose, you'll gain top end but loose some acceleration. If they are tight, you'll gain acceleration but loose some top end. It's a trade off/compromise. Low friction belts help this out alittle. I'm just fine running my belts for stock or 10t mod. I don't yank the throttle in mod. But when I do, from time to time it might skip a hair.

I've also tried a clicked belt at 0 clicks and it was pretty free spinning for several seconds. And even did good with 1 click. But being that I practice with a 10t... I took off the belt.
So you tigthen by 1 click for stock??
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Old 06-11-2004, 09:54 PM   #2637
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Didn't you say your track is large and you are racing stock? If so try this then FUK... 1 click tight rear, 0 clicks front. If you hear your belts skipping when you accelerate, then add one click tight to the front. If it still does it, go one click tight for the rear. You don't have to do this all in one day (unless if the skipping is really bad.) You'll know if it's skipping when you hear a clicking type noise coming from your car when braking or accelerating. Anyways, high speed fast tracks go for looser belt. Technical track go for tighter belt. Some clicking noise might be okay under heavy situations if it's only like 2 clicks. If it clicks like 5 times... then you definately have the belts too loose.
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Old 06-11-2004, 09:58 PM   #2638
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Hey all,

I am wondering if Tech racing or any other aftermarket company makes a front diff for the 415 if it will drop right into a MY02-the supposed sister car to the 415?

Does anyone have the scoop?

Thanks in advance,
Ray
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Old 06-11-2004, 10:12 PM   #2639
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
Didn't you say your track is large and you are racing stock? If so try this then FUK... 1 click tight rear, 0 clicks front. If you hear your belts skipping when you accelerate, then add one click tight to the front. If it still does it, go one click tight for the rear. You don't have to do this all in one day (unless if the skipping is really bad.) You'll know if it's skipping when you hear a clicking type noise coming from your car when braking or accelerating. Anyways, high speed fast tracks go for looser belt. Technical track go for tighter belt. Some clicking noise might be okay under heavy situations if it's only like 2 clicks. If it clicks like 5 times... then you definately have the belts too loose.
Thanks heaps... i will give that a try.
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Old 06-12-2004, 01:37 AM   #2640
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i'd personally stay on the tighter side unless youre prepared to pull the car apart to add tension if there is skipping.

if you run them too loose it wont take long at all to wear the layshaft pulleys, which aren't exactly the cheapest things to replace.
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