I'm looking to get a screw kit for my 415MSX, any suggestion on what to get? Titanium, Steel, Tamiya Blue etc... Also is the Aluminum outdrives a good investment?? Thanks for the info...

Aluminium outdrives are really good, just replace the outdrive plastic savers as soon as they are worn out so not to damage the outdrive. When i had the MSX (now i gotta MRE) i used Speedtechrc Titanium screws

Charles

I used the Speedtech screw kit too on my MSX, but only on the screws on everything above the chassis. Steel screws were used on the chassis to keep any needed weight at the lowest possible point.

Tryhard,
Thanks for the Jaad link (nothing shameless about showing us all a great product). Mine are on the way , shame you cant get the blue for the rear-----"unless anybody knows where I can get them".

Got my MRE oneways today

Hi Guy's
I just received my TA05 wide pitch pulley's for my MSX. I installed them and I straight away noticed a much smoother sound and feeling. I also have replaced my one-way with the diff and it is so much easier to drive. I can now brake harder and keep the back from coming around.
R/c mushroom sent the stuff from Hong kong to Australia in 3 day's. So with the new gearing will it give me more punch so can I go 1 tooth more.
Thanks
Addam

Tamiya (or RC Champ, it's the same) Blue screw kit... best looking, and lightest
Aluminium on the top, Ti on the bottom.

Ed

I've got Ti all around, had too many Al screw heads strip or snap. Al screws into Al bulkheads aren't a good idea

I have Aluminum on the top, titanium on the bottom, and titanium on upper deck, as I screw / unscrew those all the time. Alumium will not strip if you have a Hudy 2.0 Hex Driver and that you insert it to the head of the screw properly.

Why is it a bad idea to use aluminum screws on aluminum bulkhead? I have been using aluminum screws on my TRF415MSX for a year, and I don't have a problem with it.

You can screw in your alu into alu as ours anodised...The reason why you should not screw alu into alu is for don't know what reason they will bond together(Don't ask me how, I'm no chemist)and you can't unscrew your stuff out after that...

I never had a problem with that.... then again when I first build a car up with them, I apply a bit of diff lube to the threads. Seems to work well at stopping binding, and coats the internal threads which means the affect lasts a long time. No need to then coat new screws when replacing them.

HiH
Ed

From my experience, button-head aluminum screws (on, say, a top deck) work great. The heads don't strip easily or anthing, and they are very lightweight and attractive.

Countersunk aluminum screws, on the other hand, are utter junk for these purposes. There is something about the way a CS screw is made or shaped that makes the heads much weaker! When I tried countersunk al. screws with countersunk washers on one of my topdecks, it was a nightmare...I couldn't tork down on the screws at all without misshaping the heads at least a little.

Lately, all my cars have had the standard-issue steel stuff on the bottom (with some countersunk aluminum in low stress areas such as servo mounts or battery backstops), and pretty much all button-head aluminum on the top. Sometimes people look at me like I'm crazy, but button head aluminum screws honestly work very well!

Thnakfully the Tamiya and RC Champ blue screw kits come with Alumium for the top, and counter sunk Ti screws for underneath... perfect

Ah yes, that is a good combo kit. It doesn't force you in either direction .

Steer well clear of the TIR racing screw kits, they may look nice, but the hex's do not go down to the bottom of the hole, this means that if you do not have your driver in absolutly straight your round out the head!!!!

They are useless, and Ive just bought a couple of sets of 3 racing screw kits (cyclone Kits, but all the screws are right for the 415) nad they are ace!!!