Im running 20% wildcat pro-race. With lrp #6 plug on the stock shim setup, which is .3. You can run 30% on the stock shims. You can also remove one shim on 20% if you want more power.

Thanks Artificial, you have been of great help.

How many shim are there. I assume two, and both are of the same thickness?

I was asking about the .21 "B" and the "E", im thinking on the "E" version (pullstart or roto) to put on a monster truck already powered by a OS .18TZ engine ...

Hi Pato, so long no talk....The difference between "B" and "E" is that the "E" has a one piece cooling head with head button, the "B" has a two piece design... cooling head and button are separate...rest is the same...just a question of economy (E)...and tuning option (you can't change to a turbo button on the "E" model...

Saludos
Alfonso

No, both shims are not of the same thickness. The silver shim is .1mm and the copper shim is .2mm. Keep the stock shims during break in of the engine. That was the advice of Dino a while back in this thread. And as AI has pointed out, after break in of the engine, if your running 20% fuel, then you can remove the silver .1 mm shim for more compression at the sacrafice of your p/s life span.

is this glow plug fit D5R?

how to find a turbo glow plug that is rb/NOVAROSSI type??? that's kinda pain
thanks anyway.

Racers Edge Sure Fire #7 Medium Turbo Glow

http://www.racers-edge.com/store/cus...cat=505&page=2

another thing is 21E is 3 port while 21B is 5 Ports
check here for details. STS Taiwan, Home of the STS engines.

I had an engine lose all compression because of a broken filament. It was a novarossi plug that caused this. You see a lot of small pits in the piston and scratches on the liner.

Can I reuse the STS air filter? Like take foam off its base, wash it, then reglue it back to base?

You can wash a filter without removing it. You want to spray water from the inside out to push dirt away. You want to really only use a filter for 3-5 hours. Then throw it away , sooner or later dirt gets lower and lower into base and even with cleaning it will sooner enter engine causing premature wear or damage.

Has anyone here tried the d12ex with the red head? I see it is a little bit cheaper that the d3r, what is the difference between the two? I know the d3r is ifmar legal but that doesn't matter for the racing I do. The ex has a larger carb according to specs and it appears to have a carb restrictor (is this right?). So, would I be better getting the d12ex? Any suggestions would help.

Thanks
Keith

EX is an economy engine. Apparantly larger carb opening makes it harder to tune down low. If the extra $ is not a deal I'd go the D3R or maybe D5R, but I have no experience with the EX version.

If you have the $$ go the D12X

http://www.stsrc.com.tw/12engines.php

Thanks, I already have a d5r and I am really happy with it. I was just looking for something that isn't as touchy on carb settings and has a little less bottom end with compairable top end. Will the d12x's carb work on the d5r and will it be any easier to tune? Also, does any one know anything about the d3r A.I. modified and is it worth the extra money?

Thanks
Keith

I read earlier (in this thread I think it was) that the larger carb opening on the D5R does make it harder to tune. The D3R I had not touched the needles for a number of races. (though I have now as new pipe has been installed)

The D12X carb should be fine. Also don't forget high oil % in fuel will make it a nightmare to tune.

I run Trinity's monster horsepower fuel and I believe it's 12% oil and 20% nitro. Is that too much oil? If so what do you recommend.

Thanks
Keith