R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road > Onroad Nitro Engine Zone

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-09-2006, 01:39 PM   #2386
afm
Tech Master
 
afm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: lima-peru
Posts: 1,807
Default All about Turbo Glow Plugs

The so called Turbo Glow Plugs (actually conical) where designed to give more performance to an engine, for the following reasons:

* It forms an uninterrupted combustion chamber.
* The advantage of better heat transfer or heat dissipation, and a leak proof seal, generated by the conical seat of the plug.
* Greater choice of thermal ranges, that allow for more precise tuning according to variations in weather conditions (temperature, humidity, altitude, barometric pressure, etc.).

The numbers and characters on the plugs, are the product number, wire thickness, and thermal range of the plugs body. Example: The Novarossi C6TG (F) or (C)
Product: C (Conical)
Wire Thickness: 6
Plug Type: T (Turbo)
Plated: G (Gold)
Thermal Range: F (Fredda = Cold) C (Calda = Hot)

The plugs with cold thermal range F (Fredda), have a body with thinner walls and shorter body, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head. The plugs with hot thermal range C (Calda), have a body with thicker walls and longer body, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head. The number of threads is the same on both types of plugs.


How to select the proper plug:
* When the ambient temperature is high, we have to use a plug with thicker wire.
* With higher compression, we have to use a plug with thicker wire.
* Humidity determines if we use a Cold (F) thermal range, or Hot (C) thermal range.
* With high humidity percentage we should use a Hot (C) thermal range plug.
* If we have high temperature and high humidity, we should use a plug with thick wire and a Hot(C) thermal range.

The best instrument to determine which Turbo Plug to use, is those table digital weather stations, that have Temperature, Humidity, and some also Barometric Pressure on them. That is the key to success or failure tuning engines with Turbo Glow Plugs, because they are so sensitive to weather variations that is unbelievable.

Following is a selection chart for Novarossi Turbo Glow Plugs

Type Thermal Range Temp.C Temp. F Humidity%
C5TGC Hot/hot wire 0-10 32-50 70-100
C6TGC Hot/average wire 10-16 50-61 70-100
C7TGC Hot/cold wire 16-25 61-77 70-100
C8TGC Hot/ultra cold wire 25-up 77-up 70-100
C5TGF Cold/hot wire 0-10 32-50 70-100
C6TGF Cold/average wire 10-16 50-61 70-100
C7TGF Cold/cold wire 16-25 61-77 70-100
C8TGF Cold/ultra cold wire 25-up 77-up 70-100

Hope this clears the issues with so called Turbo Plugs

AFM
afm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2006, 01:49 PM   #2387
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: texas
Posts: 236
Default

Thanks AFM.
All I know is that when I used the os plug in the sts engines, it leaked. I would have to imagine that the conical tip did not match or seat well in the head of the sts engines. It leaked just as rushdude described. I even tighted it down and eventually it leaked again causing tuning issues and higher temps. I even tried the Rossi Ultra plug, which was a short body plug and it continued to do the same thing as the os plug. Once I switched over to the Novarossi long bodied plug, it sealed nicely and no more issues. Unexplainable, except that the seat of the conical shape fit better than other plugs and had a complete seal.
sook is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2006, 01:59 PM   #2388
Tech Regular
 
rushdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Central, NJ
Posts: 402
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rushdude
Default

Thanks for all the info, but is it okay to finish break-in the way my engine is above? It isnt running hot, I did 8 tanks at 190ish.
rushdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2006, 02:13 PM   #2389
afm
Tech Master
 
afm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: lima-peru
Posts: 1,807
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sook
Thanks AFM.
All I know is that when I used the os plug in the sts engines, it leaked. I would have to imagine that the conical tip did not match or seat well in the head of the sts engines. It leaked just as rushdude described. I even tighted it down and eventually it leaked again causing tuning issues and higher temps. I even tried the Rossi Ultra plug, which was a short body plug and it continued to do the same thing as the os plug. Once I switched over to the Novarossi long bodied plug, it sealed nicely and no more issues. Unexplainable, except that the seat of the conical shape fit better than other plugs and had a complete seal.
Yes, because Novarossi glow plugs have a slightly different taper on the cone end than other brands, and STS engines are compaltible with Novarossi design of head. All other brands, Os, Picco, Mega,Rossi, will have leaking problems.
As I stated before, long or short body Novarossi Turbo glow plugs have same number of threads an cone shape, i'ts matter of tuning option according to weather conditions.

AFM
afm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2006, 03:12 PM   #2390
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 3
Default who makes STS

Does anybody know who produces STS engines, is it a novarossi based engine or are they on their own, anybody know their web site?
vassi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2006, 03:17 PM   #2391
Tech Regular
 
rushdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Central, NJ
Posts: 402
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rushdude
Default

They are novarossi based. They are their own company. Here is their website.

http://www.stsrc.com.tw/
rushdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2006, 04:14 PM   #2392
Moderator
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Artificial-I
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by afm
Yes, because Novarossi glow plugs have a slightly different taper on the cone end than other brands, and STS engines are compaltible with Novarossi design of head. All other brands, Os, Picco, Mega,Rossi, will have leaking problems.
As I stated before, long or short body Novarossi Turbo glow plugs have same number of threads an cone shape, i'ts matter of tuning option according to weather conditions.

AFM
You can also run the RB plug which is based off the novarossi plug. Iam also running an lrp plug , im not sure if its based off the novarossi plug. But it hasnt had any leaking and I like the mixture since its an iridium and platinum based plug which is meant to withstand high temperatures a bit better.

So far it seems to be a good plug in my d3r.
Artificial-I is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2006, 04:42 PM   #2393
Tech Adept
 
charlesd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 242
Default

What are the base factory settings of the d3r ?
charlesd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2006, 07:59 PM   #2394
afm
Tech Master
 
afm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: lima-peru
Posts: 1,807
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by charlesd
What are the base factory settings of the d3r ?
The usable range of .12 carb is around;
HSN: 3~4 turns out.
LSN: 4~5 turns out.

The factory setting is both 4t out.

Note: There are several key points:

1) Do not lean the low-speed needle. At least keep it 4 turns out from the end. If you want more low end torque, change to a thicker clutch spring or tighten the clutch nut.
2) Always use the tallest 2nd gearing. STS engine is a high torque engine, it has enough torque to pull your car. No need to worry about if the tallest 2nd gearing may make the acceleration slower......The torque is hughe!
If you find the car slowing down a bit when it changes to 2nd speed, then you may need to delay the timing of 2nd speed clutch.
3)How much idle time is perfect? You need to think about the operation. Would you stay on the track for more than 5sec whithout racing? Waiting for your buddy then run together? If the answer is no, you can let the engine have 15sec idle time.
You may need 15sec idle time for pit-stop. I think that is enough. In fact my engine may only idle for 5~10sec. When I leave pit, I won't open the throttle suddenly. I will ON/OFF/ON/OFF throttle blips for a while. With this kind of setting, you can lean the HSN more and the engine still will not over-heat. I think there is no certain answer. It depends on what you need.
4)Just remember when you lean the HSN, you may need to rich the LSN at the same time. When you lean the LSN, you may need to rich the HSN also. If you move HSN for 5 mins, then move the LSN 10mins(double). Then you will find a balance point between HSN and LSN.

AFM
afm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2006, 08:15 PM   #2395
Tech Adept
 
charlesd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 242
Default

Thanks for the reply. Some good info. I lost my needle settings after break in and was having a rough time with engine today. I believe my low end was too lean. I can't wait until sunday to retest.
charlesd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2006, 10:48 AM   #2396
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: texas
Posts: 236
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rushdude
Thanks for all the info, but is it okay to finish break-in the way my engine is above? It isnt running hot, I did 8 tanks at 190ish.
I did not want to answer that question as probably many others. Not that we would give the wrong advise, just would not want to guess at your break in. It is up to you, if it was me, I would wait to get the correct plug. That way, I would be sure of the correctness of break in proceedures without having to worry about the seal on the glow plug and how it would affect my temps, pressure and p/s.
sook is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2006, 12:00 PM   #2397
Moderator
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Artificial-I
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sook
I solved that problem with using only glow plugs made for Novarossi turbo head engines. I actually run the Rossi turbo plugs that is designated with the last letters of TC, which stands for long body plugs. I believe that the short body plugs are designated with the letters FC. Since I switched over, I have not had a problem with the seal or over heated temps. When I looked at your choice of plugs from Dynamite, it did not look like a long bodied plug. You will be able to tell the difference in the seal when tightening the plug. I also noticed the color change at the tip of the plug, but that may just be me. I hope you find your solution.
On another note: If anyone is disatisfied with the carburator on the d3r, get the carb for the dx12 from Pro_Hobby and put it on the d3r......wow, it really does show performance gain. I replaced mine with the dx12 carb and use the air restrictor with it and it really gained some performance in tuning.
How is your d12X running VS the D3R. Im looking to try the d12x motor soon.
Artificial-I is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2006, 12:13 PM   #2398
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: texas
Posts: 236
Default

AI,
I broke in the d12x, but have not run the d12x competitively yet against anyone. I tq'd at a local club race with it, but that is not saying much. I will probably give it a chance to breath a bit either in two weeks or just wait till my last race of the Texas Series race in September. Now that I have the restrictor for the carb, I will give it a few more practice runs next weekend and will report back to you on the performance and comparison. I am having fun with the d3r at the moment and trying the d12x carburator on it. It is more than fun just to hear people ask...what engine are you running?
sook is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2006, 12:29 PM   #2399
Tech Regular
 
rushdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Central, NJ
Posts: 402
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rushdude
Default

Thanks Sook, I wont run on-road this weekend, i will just wait until next week to finish break-in. I will just race off-road this week, the closest off-road track is an hour away compared to ten minutes to race on-road.
rushdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2006, 02:47 PM   #2400
Tech Adept
 
charlesd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 242
Default

Quick question: what's the difference between the d3r and the d3rb ?
Also, where do you get a dx12?
charlesd is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
.:Go Engines vs. Jammin Engines:. lanerbrainer205 Nitro Off-Road 20 12-23-2007 04:46 PM
.12 Engines sale all new pipes too. 6 engines ericsp2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 08-06-2007 02:19 PM
os engines compared to rb engines rhymster Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 4 08-03-2007 05:13 PM
IDM engines and picco engines foampervert Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 5 11-23-2006 05:36 AM
SH engines crazyjr Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 7 01-20-2006 03:13 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:44 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net