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Old 04-20-2014 | 06:54 PM
  #4786  
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I just got a Reventon Pro 1.1 for my 4wd buggy (Schumacher K1)after replacing my Tekin RS, but am having some issues/questions with it.

First of all I love the smoothness, and the performance, and want to keep this thing, but I am finding I last only 5:30-7:30 minutes (I am timing the runs b/4 it slows to a crawl) with different battery packs, and with my local track running 7 min mains, it isn't going to cut it.

So I have been troubleshooting and searching for info on what could be the cause. so the issues are as follows:

- Fan wont turn on at all (not sure if it should be constantly on, when powered up, or turns on at a certain temperature..?)

- Short running time (I have 3 different battery packs. a 5200 which I am basing most of timed runs at, a 4500, and a 4200 (both of those are practice packs)). The 5200 should be enough as a lot of the setup sheets have guys running 4wd with 6.5 and 5000 packs...

-high ESC temperatures.. I was told 170'F is the safe maximum for both motor and ESC. My motor is running like 134'F and my ESC ran around 178'F so its high.

(I am running the same gear ratio as many others do on the K1 with a Reedy 6.5 motor, for what it is worth so I shouldn't have to change that..)

I have the voltage cutoff set to 2.8 (lowest)and the heat cutoff at the stock setting (I know a lot of people are running these options off, but I don't want my battery to drop too low and thermal on me.)

I have reset the ESC when I changed the firmware to Mod2, and have the following settings....
2.8V cutoff
3.75 DMTS
DRRS = level 4
ABS braking = 60%
Drag = 20%
95'C overheat cutoff

I am just trying to rule out any things b/4 I return/exchange it as to me I had zero problems with Tekin with runtimes etc with the same setup, so I don't think I should have to change those things to get the job done.

***The only change I recently made is replacing my Spektrum servo with a Savox servo around the same time I replaced the ESC... I read in one of my many google searches a thread where they drain more current.. But honeslty it shouldn't be a factor as it is a popular servo for 1/10 offroad.

Another question I have, does running such a low DMTS make the ESC work harder by holding back current from the motor? Perhaps that explains the higher ESC temp and lower motor temp? I don't know how the ESC 's works, just trying to work through any possibilities...

Any advice?

Last edited by mdl060374; 04-20-2014 at 06:58 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 04-21-2014 | 12:45 PM
  #4787  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
I bought 2 Reventon Pro ESC's te replace my RS Pros and after installing them both I had a similar issue with one of them and I dropped my car while my finger was still on the throttle and when the car impacted on the floor it took off. Not understanding what the hell had just happened, I let off the throttle and tried again, and again nothing.

So I held the car while squeezing the throttle and smacked the car on my knee and the wheels started spinning again. I tried over and over but the only way to get juice to the motor was to impact the car. So I unsoldered everything, re-soldered and same thing, It was simply a bad unit.

I took that ESC back and they swapped me out and the next one was flawless and is still rocking as good as day one.

I suspect you're having a similar issue and I suggest you hold your throttle a bit and drop the car to see if it engages and kicks the power in. If it does you know what you need to do. If nothing, same outcome. Take it to the hobby shop you bought it from and get them to check it and process an exchange.
Thanks for information... Nothing I've done to this point seems to help. Re-Solder connections on esc and motor at least 3 times now. Have tried to calibrate at least 30 times.. Did email support but they didn't say much just sent me a link for a video on how to calibrate.

Which I followed but with same results. Will call and see about if I can return.
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Old 04-22-2014 | 08:15 AM
  #4788  
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Originally Posted by mdl060374
I just got a Reventon Pro 1.1 for my 4wd buggy (Schumacher K1)after replacing my Tekin RS, but am having some issues/questions with it.

First of all I love the smoothness, and the performance, and want to keep this thing, but I am finding I last only 5:30-7:30 minutes (I am timing the runs b/4 it slows to a crawl) with different battery packs, and with my local track running 7 min mains, it isn't going to cut it.

So I have been troubleshooting and searching for info on what could be the cause. so the issues are as follows:

- Fan wont turn on at all (not sure if it should be constantly on, when powered up, or turns on at a certain temperature..?)

- Short running time (I have 3 different battery packs. a 5200 which I am basing most of timed runs at, a 4500, and a 4200 (both of those are practice packs)). The 5200 should be enough as a lot of the setup sheets have guys running 4wd with 6.5 and 5000 packs...

-high ESC temperatures.. I was told 170'F is the safe maximum for both motor and ESC. My motor is running like 134'F and my ESC ran around 178'F so its high.

(I am running the same gear ratio as many others do on the K1 with a Reedy 6.5 motor, for what it is worth so I shouldn't have to change that..)

I have the voltage cutoff set to 2.8 (lowest)and the heat cutoff at the stock setting (I know a lot of people are running these options off, but I don't want my battery to drop too low and thermal on me.)

I have reset the ESC when I changed the firmware to Mod2, and have the following settings....
2.8V cutoff
3.75 DMTS
DRRS = level 4
ABS braking = 60%
Drag = 20%
95'C overheat cutoff

I am just trying to rule out any things b/4 I return/exchange it as to me I had zero problems with Tekin with runtimes etc with the same setup, so I don't think I should have to change those things to get the job done.

***The only change I recently made is replacing my Spektrum servo with a Savox servo around the same time I replaced the ESC... I read in one of my many google searches a thread where they drain more current.. But honeslty it shouldn't be a factor as it is a popular servo for 1/10 offroad.

Another question I have, does running such a low DMTS make the ESC work harder by holding back current from the motor? Perhaps that explains the higher ESC temp and lower motor temp? I don't know how the ESC 's works, just trying to work through any possibilities...

Any advice?
change your setting to
Cutoff: off
DMTS: 0
DRRS: 7
Over heat cutoff: off

I run Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1 in my SCTE-TEN with a Speed Passion Blaze motor. I have no problem no cutoff or over heat off. Give this setup a try.
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Old 04-23-2014 | 07:34 AM
  #4789  
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DTMS: This is the ESC timing or the boost. Generally with mod motors I don't even use this.

DDRS: This is essentially the current limiter. I usually run mine around 4 or 5, sometimes higher depending on the motor and track conditions (traction?)

Let us low how you work out! I run my Speed Passion ESC and motors without a fan and I never thermal and I have a LOT of runtime left even after a 6 minute main.
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Old 04-23-2014 | 10:48 AM
  #4790  
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Ok I will give it s shot. TY for the responses.
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Old 04-23-2014 | 12:41 PM
  #4791  
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Originally Posted by mdl060374
Ok I will give it s shot. TY for the responses.

There are a number of setups from our team drivers at http://www.speedpassion.net/us/escsetup.asp

If you see the name Mike Kochanski he is based in the US so his setups might be similar to tracks you run.
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Old 04-26-2014 | 11:07 AM
  #4792  
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Can I use a 550 motor with reventon r esc
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Old 04-26-2014 | 11:23 AM
  #4793  
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Hey,

Reventon R & v3.0 motor: If I get it right they should plug into each other directly without soldering.

Should I strip the heat shrink that fully covers the plugs of the ESC and then plug these into the motor's plugs?
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Old 04-26-2014 | 03:50 PM
  #4794  
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No the female bullets will slide right into the motor with the shrink tubing on them.
No need to remove them whatsoever.
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Old 04-26-2014 | 10:52 PM
  #4795  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
No the female bullets will slide right into the motor with the shrink tubing on them.
No need to remove them whatsoever.
I'm puzzled. Both bullets (esc & motor) have the same diameter... which one should slide into the other?
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Old 04-27-2014 | 02:18 AM
  #4796  
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If you remove the the motor tabs a b c there are in essence short female bullet ends and under those are small male bullets built into the motor.


solder the appropriate esc wires and then return them in order to the motor.


viola.



Momo
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Old 04-27-2014 | 04:32 AM
  #4797  
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Originally Posted by MOmo
If you remove the the motor tabs a b c there are in essence short female bullet ends and under those are small male bullets built into the motor.


solder the appropriate esc wires and then return them in order to the motor.
This makes perfect sense!

Thank you guys!!!
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Old 04-27-2014 | 04:41 PM
  #4798  
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Originally Posted by koopesv
Can I use a 550 motor with reventon r esc
Anyone
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Old 04-27-2014 | 06:08 PM
  #4799  
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Originally Posted by koopesv
Anyone
550/540...need more details.

But in general a 4 pole isnt really recommended. A 2 pole will run....we even have our own 550 2 pole Blaze motors.
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Old 04-28-2014 | 06:55 AM
  #4800  
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pretty good prices on those blaze motors can be found. seen them for like $60 shipped new.
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