Speed Passion Thread
#4786
I just got a Reventon Pro 1.1 for my 4wd buggy (Schumacher K1)after replacing my Tekin RS, but am having some issues/questions with it.
First of all I love the smoothness, and the performance, and want to keep this thing, but I am finding I last only 5:30-7:30 minutes (I am timing the runs b/4 it slows to a crawl) with different battery packs, and with my local track running 7 min mains, it isn't going to cut it.
So I have been troubleshooting and searching for info on what could be the cause. so the issues are as follows:
- Fan wont turn on at all (not sure if it should be constantly on, when powered up, or turns on at a certain temperature..?)
- Short running time (I have 3 different battery packs. a 5200 which I am basing most of timed runs at, a 4500, and a 4200 (both of those are practice packs)). The 5200 should be enough as a lot of the setup sheets have guys running 4wd with 6.5 and 5000 packs...
-high ESC temperatures.. I was told 170'F is the safe maximum for both motor and ESC. My motor is running like 134'F and my ESC ran around 178'F so its high.
(I am running the same gear ratio as many others do on the K1 with a Reedy 6.5 motor, for what it is worth so I shouldn't have to change that..)
I have the voltage cutoff set to 2.8 (lowest)and the heat cutoff at the stock setting (I know a lot of people are running these options off, but I don't want my battery to drop too low and thermal on me.)
I have reset the ESC when I changed the firmware to Mod2, and have the following settings....
2.8V cutoff
3.75 DMTS
DRRS = level 4
ABS braking = 60%
Drag = 20%
95'C overheat cutoff
I am just trying to rule out any things b/4 I return/exchange it as to me I had zero problems with Tekin with runtimes etc with the same setup, so I don't think I should have to change those things to get the job done.
***The only change I recently made is replacing my Spektrum servo with a Savox servo around the same time I replaced the ESC... I read in one of my many google searches a thread where they drain more current.. But honeslty it shouldn't be a factor as it is a popular servo for 1/10 offroad.
Another question I have, does running such a low DMTS make the ESC work harder by holding back current from the motor? Perhaps that explains the higher ESC temp and lower motor temp? I don't know how the ESC 's works, just trying to work through any possibilities...
Any advice?
First of all I love the smoothness, and the performance, and want to keep this thing, but I am finding I last only 5:30-7:30 minutes (I am timing the runs b/4 it slows to a crawl) with different battery packs, and with my local track running 7 min mains, it isn't going to cut it.
So I have been troubleshooting and searching for info on what could be the cause. so the issues are as follows:
- Fan wont turn on at all (not sure if it should be constantly on, when powered up, or turns on at a certain temperature..?)
- Short running time (I have 3 different battery packs. a 5200 which I am basing most of timed runs at, a 4500, and a 4200 (both of those are practice packs)). The 5200 should be enough as a lot of the setup sheets have guys running 4wd with 6.5 and 5000 packs...
-high ESC temperatures.. I was told 170'F is the safe maximum for both motor and ESC. My motor is running like 134'F and my ESC ran around 178'F so its high.
(I am running the same gear ratio as many others do on the K1 with a Reedy 6.5 motor, for what it is worth so I shouldn't have to change that..)
I have the voltage cutoff set to 2.8 (lowest)and the heat cutoff at the stock setting (I know a lot of people are running these options off, but I don't want my battery to drop too low and thermal on me.)
I have reset the ESC when I changed the firmware to Mod2, and have the following settings....
2.8V cutoff
3.75 DMTS
DRRS = level 4
ABS braking = 60%
Drag = 20%
95'C overheat cutoff
I am just trying to rule out any things b/4 I return/exchange it as to me I had zero problems with Tekin with runtimes etc with the same setup, so I don't think I should have to change those things to get the job done.
***The only change I recently made is replacing my Spektrum servo with a Savox servo around the same time I replaced the ESC... I read in one of my many google searches a thread where they drain more current.. But honeslty it shouldn't be a factor as it is a popular servo for 1/10 offroad.
Another question I have, does running such a low DMTS make the ESC work harder by holding back current from the motor? Perhaps that explains the higher ESC temp and lower motor temp? I don't know how the ESC 's works, just trying to work through any possibilities...
Any advice?
Last edited by mdl060374; 04-20-2014 at 06:58 PM. Reason: typo
#4787
Tech Rookie
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2
I bought 2 Reventon Pro ESC's te replace my RS Pros and after installing them both I had a similar issue with one of them and I dropped my car while my finger was still on the throttle and when the car impacted on the floor it took off. Not understanding what the hell had just happened, I let off the throttle and tried again, and again nothing.
So I held the car while squeezing the throttle and smacked the car on my knee and the wheels started spinning again. I tried over and over but the only way to get juice to the motor was to impact the car. So I unsoldered everything, re-soldered and same thing, It was simply a bad unit.
I took that ESC back and they swapped me out and the next one was flawless and is still rocking as good as day one.
I suspect you're having a similar issue and I suggest you hold your throttle a bit and drop the car to see if it engages and kicks the power in. If it does you know what you need to do. If nothing, same outcome. Take it to the hobby shop you bought it from and get them to check it and process an exchange.
So I held the car while squeezing the throttle and smacked the car on my knee and the wheels started spinning again. I tried over and over but the only way to get juice to the motor was to impact the car. So I unsoldered everything, re-soldered and same thing, It was simply a bad unit.
I took that ESC back and they swapped me out and the next one was flawless and is still rocking as good as day one.
I suspect you're having a similar issue and I suggest you hold your throttle a bit and drop the car to see if it engages and kicks the power in. If it does you know what you need to do. If nothing, same outcome. Take it to the hobby shop you bought it from and get them to check it and process an exchange.
Which I followed but with same results. Will call and see about if I can return.
#4788
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 773
From: Appleton Wi
I just got a Reventon Pro 1.1 for my 4wd buggy (Schumacher K1)after replacing my Tekin RS, but am having some issues/questions with it.
First of all I love the smoothness, and the performance, and want to keep this thing, but I am finding I last only 5:30-7:30 minutes (I am timing the runs b/4 it slows to a crawl) with different battery packs, and with my local track running 7 min mains, it isn't going to cut it.
So I have been troubleshooting and searching for info on what could be the cause. so the issues are as follows:
- Fan wont turn on at all (not sure if it should be constantly on, when powered up, or turns on at a certain temperature..?)
- Short running time (I have 3 different battery packs. a 5200 which I am basing most of timed runs at, a 4500, and a 4200 (both of those are practice packs)). The 5200 should be enough as a lot of the setup sheets have guys running 4wd with 6.5 and 5000 packs...
-high ESC temperatures.. I was told 170'F is the safe maximum for both motor and ESC. My motor is running like 134'F and my ESC ran around 178'F so its high.
(I am running the same gear ratio as many others do on the K1 with a Reedy 6.5 motor, for what it is worth so I shouldn't have to change that..)
I have the voltage cutoff set to 2.8 (lowest)and the heat cutoff at the stock setting (I know a lot of people are running these options off, but I don't want my battery to drop too low and thermal on me.)
I have reset the ESC when I changed the firmware to Mod2, and have the following settings....
2.8V cutoff
3.75 DMTS
DRRS = level 4
ABS braking = 60%
Drag = 20%
95'C overheat cutoff
I am just trying to rule out any things b/4 I return/exchange it as to me I had zero problems with Tekin with runtimes etc with the same setup, so I don't think I should have to change those things to get the job done.
***The only change I recently made is replacing my Spektrum servo with a Savox servo around the same time I replaced the ESC... I read in one of my many google searches a thread where they drain more current.. But honeslty it shouldn't be a factor as it is a popular servo for 1/10 offroad.
Another question I have, does running such a low DMTS make the ESC work harder by holding back current from the motor? Perhaps that explains the higher ESC temp and lower motor temp? I don't know how the ESC 's works, just trying to work through any possibilities...
Any advice?
First of all I love the smoothness, and the performance, and want to keep this thing, but I am finding I last only 5:30-7:30 minutes (I am timing the runs b/4 it slows to a crawl) with different battery packs, and with my local track running 7 min mains, it isn't going to cut it.
So I have been troubleshooting and searching for info on what could be the cause. so the issues are as follows:
- Fan wont turn on at all (not sure if it should be constantly on, when powered up, or turns on at a certain temperature..?)
- Short running time (I have 3 different battery packs. a 5200 which I am basing most of timed runs at, a 4500, and a 4200 (both of those are practice packs)). The 5200 should be enough as a lot of the setup sheets have guys running 4wd with 6.5 and 5000 packs...
-high ESC temperatures.. I was told 170'F is the safe maximum for both motor and ESC. My motor is running like 134'F and my ESC ran around 178'F so its high.
(I am running the same gear ratio as many others do on the K1 with a Reedy 6.5 motor, for what it is worth so I shouldn't have to change that..)
I have the voltage cutoff set to 2.8 (lowest)and the heat cutoff at the stock setting (I know a lot of people are running these options off, but I don't want my battery to drop too low and thermal on me.)
I have reset the ESC when I changed the firmware to Mod2, and have the following settings....
2.8V cutoff
3.75 DMTS
DRRS = level 4
ABS braking = 60%
Drag = 20%
95'C overheat cutoff
I am just trying to rule out any things b/4 I return/exchange it as to me I had zero problems with Tekin with runtimes etc with the same setup, so I don't think I should have to change those things to get the job done.
***The only change I recently made is replacing my Spektrum servo with a Savox servo around the same time I replaced the ESC... I read in one of my many google searches a thread where they drain more current.. But honeslty it shouldn't be a factor as it is a popular servo for 1/10 offroad.
Another question I have, does running such a low DMTS make the ESC work harder by holding back current from the motor? Perhaps that explains the higher ESC temp and lower motor temp? I don't know how the ESC 's works, just trying to work through any possibilities...
Any advice?
Cutoff: off
DMTS: 0
DRRS: 7
Over heat cutoff: off
I run Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1 in my SCTE-TEN with a Speed Passion Blaze motor. I have no problem no cutoff or over heat off. Give this setup a try.
#4789
DTMS: This is the ESC timing or the boost. Generally with mod motors I don't even use this.
DDRS: This is essentially the current limiter. I usually run mine around 4 or 5, sometimes higher depending on the motor and track conditions (traction?)
Let us low how you work out! I run my Speed Passion ESC and motors without a fan and I never thermal and I have a LOT of runtime left even after a 6 minute main.
DDRS: This is essentially the current limiter. I usually run mine around 4 or 5, sometimes higher depending on the motor and track conditions (traction?)
Let us low how you work out! I run my Speed Passion ESC and motors without a fan and I never thermal and I have a LOT of runtime left even after a 6 minute main.
#4791
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,758
From: Chicago, IL
There are a number of setups from our team drivers at http://www.speedpassion.net/us/escsetup.asp
If you see the name Mike Kochanski he is based in the US so his setups might be similar to tracks you run.
#4793
Hey,
Reventon R & v3.0 motor: If I get it right they should plug into each other directly without soldering.
Should I strip the heat shrink that fully covers the plugs of the ESC and then plug these into the motor's plugs?
Reventon R & v3.0 motor: If I get it right they should plug into each other directly without soldering.
Should I strip the heat shrink that fully covers the plugs of the ESC and then plug these into the motor's plugs?
#4795
#4796
If you remove the the motor tabs a b c there are in essence short female bullet ends and under those are small male bullets built into the motor.
solder the appropriate esc wires and then return them in order to the motor.
viola.
Momo
solder the appropriate esc wires and then return them in order to the motor.
viola.
Momo
#4797



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