5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
07-20-2013 | 01:43 AM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 23
From: Czech Republic
Hey guys, I'm looking for new batteries for my 4x4, because my Gens Aces are almost dead (low amps, heating when charging...) and I can't decide between two shorty lipos in parallel or two 1S lipos in serial.
Shorty: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=32797
1S: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=32706
Can someone help me with it? Thanks
Shorty: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=32797
1S: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=32706
Can someone help me with it? Thanks
07-20-2013 | 07:04 AM
Nice! Can you post a pic with it mounted up? I'd like to see how everything lines up.
I don't know if this was covered, but I have been running a SC10 4x4 Lite which has been modified to be as light as possible. I got it down to 5lbs 6oz and I loved the way it handles now. But what I wanted to mention was I just added a Losi Hi Performance body which is almost 3oz lighter than the Proline body I was using, which puts me right at the ROAR minimum. The Losi body features a bunch of vents which reduces the parachute effect (which is magnified when you go lite) and the lighter weight lowers the CG. My buddies said it wouldn't fit on my SC10 4x4 and they are right if you run stock because the rear mounts end up in the vent cutouts. I got around this by turning the rear mounts around, body fits perfectly.
Losi Hi Performance body, originally designed for the Losi 22SCT, lots of vents.
Top circle shows the mounting holes with the mounts turned around (facing forward) the bottom circle shows where they would have been in the stock position.
Body mounts turned around so the body would fit.
I paid a few more bucks for the pre-cut body, which saves you a lot of work.
Losi Hi Performance body, originally designed for the Losi 22SCT, lots of vents.
Top circle shows the mounting holes with the mounts turned around (facing forward) the bottom circle shows where they would have been in the stock position.
Body mounts turned around so the body would fit.
I paid a few more bucks for the pre-cut body, which saves you a lot of work.
07-20-2013 | 09:19 AM
Pulled a late nighter and got my FT SC10 4x4 restuffed with it's RX8/4600 Pro4, and a Spektrum 6040 servo (best servo for the money imo that's capable in a 4x4 corr truck). Wasn't worth selling for next to nothing so I put a few bucks into a servo & receiver and figured why not keep it? Of course it won't earn my Tekno a spot on the bench
but I'll take it out for a heat here and there. Almost forgot how much fun it was to put a servo in this thing 
. Oh well. I did like the truck quite a bit so the old girl is worth holding onto.
but I'll take it out for a heat here and there. Almost forgot how much fun it was to put a servo in this thing . Oh well. I did like the truck quite a bit so the old girl is worth holding onto.
07-20-2013 | 11:29 AM
Here is the Losi HP body mounted on the truck. I did not go with a real elaborate paint job, because the body is light weight, has a lot of vents so it is not as durable as a heavier non-vented body. This is part of the trade off for lighter overall weight and lower CG. I went with a basic white, which I feel highlights the vents and then I added a few stickers to let people know what just passed them.
07-21-2013 | 10:07 AM
Needs some help, I know it has been discussed, but not sure when. My sc10 4x4 grinds when on power and I get little acceleration. I'm running a trinity monster up 4.5 and Im using the chassis stiffener. I have replaced both diff, belt, belt gears, and my clicker is tight, also my belt tension is one notch from the bottem in the rear and almost the same up front. Diffs are not leaking and are filled to the specs in the manual. I consider my self a pretty good wrench, but this is got me stumped. Any suggestions. Pm me if u would, thanks a lot
07-21-2013 | 11:28 AM
Tech Fanatic
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 808
From: In a VAN down by the RIVER
Needs some help, I know it has been discussed, but not sure when. My sc10 4x4 grinds when on power and I get little acceleration. I'm running a trinity monster up 4.5 and Im using the chassis stiffener. I have replaced both diff, belt, belt gears, and my clicker is tight, also my belt tension is one notch from the bottem in the rear and almost the same up front. Diffs are not leaking and are filled to the specs in the manual. I consider my self a pretty good wrench, but this is got me stumped. Any suggestions. Pm me if u would, thanks a lot
07-22-2013 | 05:49 AM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 23
From: Czech Republic
It's rear diff. You need to put these washer under the planet gears. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Gear-Washer-10
This solve your problem.
I have two washers in my diffs. Original larger 0.1mm and these Protek with 0.2mm. No grinding.
This solve your problem.
I have two washers in my diffs. Original larger 0.1mm and these Protek with 0.2mm. No grinding.
07-22-2013 | 07:47 AM
nice job Shark. Based on what the original intent of the class was, not surprised how well the SC10 4x4 does in its element and lightened.
Wonder if AE could make a revision to make servo change out easier. Maybe a tray or something that drops out with the lowering mod people have done?
Wonder if AE could make a revision to make servo change out easier. Maybe a tray or something that drops out with the lowering mod people have done?
07-22-2013 | 08:15 AM
It's rear diff. You need to put these washer under the planet gears. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Gear-Washer-10
This solve your problem.
I have two washers in my diffs. Original larger 0.1mm and these Protek with 0.2mm. No grinding.
This solve your problem.
I have two washers in my diffs. Original larger 0.1mm and these Protek with 0.2mm. No grinding.
07-22-2013 | 08:24 AM
Other than my rear diff grinding and I'm a very loyal to associated brand I give 8 out of ten, reason being is it seems the shaft drives seem to be more consistent