thanks bro!!

Out of the box, Factory Team Edition I would give it the following for raceability:

- Indoor conditions, 1/10 sized jumps, great -> insane traction: 9 / 10
- Outdoor conditions, 1/8 sized jumps, low traction or worse: 5/10
* NOTE: with aftermarket upgrades : 7.5/10

This is pure raceability, no maintenance (can be a pain), durability(actually really great), etc.

Me personally, despite a few quirks, I think AE made a good to great vehicle for the conditions the class originally was intended for as well as the conditions they appear to have focused on (higher traction, 1/10 jumps, etc)

But, the class have evolved in a lot of areas that heavier 1/8 based vehicles have benefits. Even a rep from AE at one point in a discussion pondered if they should have the SC10 4x4 as an indoor vehicle and maybe an RC8 based on as the large track outdoor vehicle, similar to the Tekno and Losi.

In the end, you just need to go in with an honest assessment of the vehicle and understand the limitations.

This is not something new or out of the ordinary, heck I and others do it with our teknos a well, just like the Losi guys or the Durango guys. Identify areas lacking, work with the community to fix / improve the vehicle and go from there.

I listened to that interview with Cliff Lett with Live RC i think it was, and he indicated AE would be coming out with alot of racing type release later this year. Wouldnt say what, but all the other racing platforms have been released lately, all is left are 8th scales and the Sc10 4x4, and i heard there still working on the 8th scale stuff.

Hopefully the Sc10 4x4 gets and overhaul, but in the currecnt state, indoors, i think its pretty competitive, but could be better.

Only 5 guys in the Sc4x4 class at the Hot Rod ....


Ummmmmm .......

Not good ....

thanks. for the in fo guys i do race indoors i want a Tekno but i have a SC10.2 (I don't like )someone wants to trade me for a FT SC10 4x4 still debating

thank bro!!

for your conditions I think you can be happy with the vehicle well enough. With the whole SC10 4x4 lite movement, could be just what the doctored ordered for ya.

no prob. If you do get one, looking forward to your contributions on the thread. More the merrier!

I want to say thanks for all the info from this thread.

I finally got my truck feeling good to drive on a medium size indoor high traction track.
This truck is a blast to drive, however I'm working on tuning out some of the twitchy feeling I had from the front end. I was running the diffs as factory with the cheap grease in them.

I tried 50k in the front and the truck pushed really hard into the corner if I used any kind of power. I think I may dial it down a bit and go with 10k in the front to try it out. I'm looking for a setup very similar to stock, but I want the front end to push just a tinny bit.

Out here when the carpet track was active, it was common to raise the inner front ball stud to get a little bit of the push you are looking for.

For me, mind you at that point I was running the RC Shox Center Diff, but I found that I liked essentially the same front and rear diff setting (7K Front, 5K Rear) but would go with the shimming as I mentioned.

If you are running a slipper of some sort, maybe start with the Factory Team Kit settings for diff fluid or a tad lighter (I think its either 30K or 20K) and rear at 5K (this seems to be the most common setting) and go from there.

I know not really the thread for this but maybe someone can help. I'am having brown out problems in a sc10 4x4 havoc pro w/X & super tuner (5amp bec) and just installed a schuur speed 4 pole 4800kv. My transponder is not counting. At one track loop is just before a huge double and you have to goose it hard. I can see the transponder light flicker on the car stand, must be worse under load. Everything seems fine with a novak 550 though.I do have a glitch buster but connected or not doesn't seem to make any difference. Any ideas?Servo does not seem to be glitching though

Keep Dreaming...

As Cherry pointed out at the HotRod. 4x4 SC is really nothing in this hobby. It's a toy class in most eyes. 2wd SC is MUCH more respected than 4wd. There isn't an drive to advance the class, and as such no incentive to produce new products. This chassis is all on you guys and your brilliant engineering to make things work. (till they pull out of their butts and allow conversions and 3s. HAH!)

For the record: I'm dreaming with you. =)

Thanks for the info, I went ahead and redid my diffs to 10k oil. I will pick up some spacers next time I'm at the track. The front end feels better with the 10k fluid up front atleast when I turn it by hand.

My next plan is to redo the rear diff with 5k and see how I like it. I never actually checked the fluid levels when I built the truck. I'm sure its got nothing in it, or very little fluid at all.

I'm running the VTS slipper for the rear and the front has the exotec locker on it.

boborc, you may try turning up the output on your BEC to 6 volts. If thats possible. If not you could run a CC BEC, I never have problems with any glitches on my MMP and Tekin pro4hd.

no prob. with the locker I believe people run similar front diff fluid like the rc shox center diff likes, but you may want to search the thread and confirm.

If they ever did a revision to the sc10 4x4, access to the diffs would be one thing I would love to see them do.

Bolded for truth. Its a pain to pull the hole front clip apart to get to the diff. I have to do diff changes in stages. No way I would ever do front and rear on the same night. I would end up being there all night.

There is a post on this thread explaining a "fast" way to get access to the diffs, well, fast at least for the sc10 4x4 lol.