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Old 05-06-2013 | 04:11 PM
  #5491  
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I have seen so many times the mbx6 buggy air filter boot the rubber neck have a bad like tear in it from black part of the tank hitting the boot from flex. Check that. You might have to trim the black plastic part off. Just an idea.
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Old 05-06-2013 | 04:34 PM
  #5492  
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Originally Posted by Sneakyweasl
My p5 is toast after only 2 gallons compression is nil and the front bearing leaks very bad. When the piston and sleeve were pulled I found scratches on the back side of the piston and sleeve directly on the exhaust port. I have been very meticulous about air filter maintenance and have never even seen a speck of dust or dirt on the secondary filter. Any ideas on the cause it was not a glow plug element changed the first one after break in and im on my third one now. I'm hopping a polish and a pinch will get me back up and running with a new front bearing. Any help would be appreciated. Oh I run a Mugen MBX6. thanks
the slightest dirt ingestion will do this, my friend had a powerhouse modded p5 thing was ballistic but had some slightest amounts of dirt must of got in and now no compression as long as there is no scoring on the piston there is a guy on here rayaracing that could bring it back to life
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Old 05-06-2013 | 04:35 PM
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Hey Guys,

I have a Plus-4BTT WC. Barely a gallon through it. Running Byrons Gen2 30%.

How do you know if you should run a cooler plug? This past weekend was the warmest (by far) day we've had and the first race day I've raced it. I started out with a C6TGC for first qualifier and the temperature outside was probably around 75 degrees. By the 2nd qualifier it was at least 85 so I changed to C7TGC.

When I took the 6 out (which is still the orginal plug that came with it) the tip of the filament had quite a bit of black stuff caked on it. I assume it was from break-in running rich but I'm not sure. Filament itself looked ok.

Would you have recommended the 7 or stick with the 6? Do you require any tuning changes with a glow plug change?

Thanks,

JJ
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Old 05-06-2013 | 07:48 PM
  #5494  
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Originally Posted by JJRC
Hey Guys,

I have a Plus-4BTT WC. Barely a gallon through it. Running Byrons Gen2 30%.

How do you know if you should run a cooler plug? This past weekend was the warmest (by far) day we've had and the first race day I've raced it. I started out with a C6TGC for first qualifier and the temperature outside was probably around 75 degrees. By the 2nd qualifier it was at least 85 so I changed to C7TGC.

When I took the 6 out (which is still the orginal plug that came with it) the tip of the filament had quite a bit of black stuff caked on it. I assume it was from break-in running rich but I'm not sure. Filament itself looked ok.

Would you have recommended the 7 or stick with the 6? Do you require any tuning changes with a glow plug change?

Thanks,

JJ
sure I love the c7 plugs but only if it's not too humid outside. I live near the coast so it gets really humid and the 7 plugs tend to be stubborn in those conditions hot or not. if it's warmer then 80 degrees and dry the c7 is perfection. it last longer. I usually need to lean it up a bit on top and bottom and watch the idle it usually goes down slightly with the c7tgc. In any other condition run the c6tgc. I hope this helps. 99t's work great too, and 97t's for break in or very humid conditions.

Oh I just realized it's for a BTT they like slightly warmer plugs. the 97t is pretty good in that engine and a c6tgc is just about cool enough, cooler than a 97t. I say go for a c7 only in 90 plus temps for a btt. a p5 80 degrees and up.

Last edited by merdith6; 05-06-2013 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 05-06-2013 | 08:24 PM
  #5495  
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guys i never had a nova rossi but i am looking at 2 stock engines. p5 an a plus-4 t . which is better and what is the best all around pipe an header? i want a stock engine first befor i go with a mod.
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Old 05-06-2013 | 08:59 PM
  #5496  
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Originally Posted by merdith6
sure I love the c7 plugs but only if it's not too humid outside. I live near the coast so it gets really humid and the 7 plugs tend to be stubborn in those conditions hot or not. if it's warmer then 80 degrees and dry the c7 is perfection. it last longer. I usually need to lean it up a bit on top and bottom and watch the idle it usually goes down slightly with the c7tgc. In any other condition run the c6tgc. I hope this helps. 99t's work great too, and 97t's for break in or very humid conditions.

Oh I just realized it's for a BTT they like slightly warmer plugs. the 97t is pretty good in that engine and a c6tgc is just about cool enough, cooler than a 97t. I say go for a c7 only in 90 plus temps for a btt. a p5 80 degrees and up.
Thanks. Running the 7 seemed to increase temps by quite a bit like, 20-30deg after a 5min qualifier. I also live on the coast so it tends to be humid when it's hot out so maybe it wasn't a great choice. I put the 6 back in for the main but had to leave before they ran it. I wanted to compare temps but for now I'll keep running the 6 unless it's very hot out.


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Old 05-06-2013 | 11:27 PM
  #5497  
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Originally Posted by kyoshoracer77
guys i never had a nova rossi but i am looking at 2 stock engines. p5 an a plus-4 t . which is better and what is the best all around pipe an header? i want a stock engine first befor i go with a mod.
In a buggy go with the plus4 a good matching pipe would be say the
9901 with a 41021 header if the track has low grip try the 2096 pipe
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Old 05-07-2013 | 06:31 AM
  #5498  
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Originally Posted by JJRC
Thanks. Running the 7 seemed to increase temps by quite a bit like, 20-30deg after a 5min qualifier. I also live on the coast so it tends to be humid when it's hot out so maybe it wasn't a great choice. I put the 6 back in for the main but had to leave before they ran it. I wanted to compare temps but for now I'll keep running the 6 unless it's very hot out.


JJ
hhmmmm, if the 7 increased yuor temps, you are on the wrong plug. It is to cold for your conditions. Whenever i been in need for the 7 plug, it has been abaout 28-30 degrees celsius outside. Temps usually goes down a small bit becuse the ignitiontiming is to early in the 6 plug. I usually get an engine that respond better to needled also when changing to a colder plug at those conditions.
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Old 05-07-2013 | 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by kyoshoracer77
guys i never had a nova rossi but i am looking at 2 stock engines. p5 an a plus-4 t . which is better and what is the best all around pipe an header? i want a stock engine first befor i go with a mod.
I recently got my first New motor which was an plus 4T and I couldn't say enough about it. Took my time breaking her in and ran as much fuel thru it as possible (1 gallon) before sending it off to Chris Nunez. I also ran mines with the 9901/41021 combo, but when it comes back from Chris I'm gonna try a 2096/41021 combo.
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Old 05-07-2013 | 08:01 AM
  #5500  
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Originally Posted by Sneakyweasl
My p5 is toast after only 2 gallons compression is nil and the front bearing leaks very bad. When the piston and sleeve were pulled I found scratches on the back side of the piston and sleeve directly on the exhaust port. I have been very meticulous about air filter maintenance and have never even seen a speck of dust or dirt on the secondary filter. Any ideas on the cause it was not a glow plug element changed the first one after break in and im on my third one now. I'm hopping a polish and a pinch will get me back up and running with a new front bearing. Any help would be appreciated. Oh I run a Mugen MBX6. thanks
Sounds like bearing failure.
This is so common on the p5's that people in Spain are saying you should replace the bearings after 1 gallon or so.
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Old 05-07-2013 | 08:26 AM
  #5501  
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Originally Posted by Sneakyweasl
My p5 is toast after only 2 gallons compression is nil and the front bearing leaks very bad. When the piston and sleeve were pulled I found scratches on the back side of the piston and sleeve directly on the exhaust port. I have been very meticulous about air filter maintenance and have never even seen a speck of dust or dirt on the secondary filter. Any ideas on the cause it was not a glow plug element changed the first one after break in and im on my third one now. I'm hopping a polish and a pinch will get me back up and running with a new front bearing. Any help would be appreciated. Oh I run a Mugen MBX6. thanks
could you post a picture of that piston and its scratches ?
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Old 05-07-2013 | 02:07 PM
  #5502  
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Has anybody tried sealing their front bearing with high temp RTV, or some other sealant? The bearing caps make sense, but they don't work with Losi flywheels. There has to be another way to keep a sealant in place.
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Old 05-07-2013 | 02:47 PM
  #5503  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Has anybody tried sealing their front bearing with high temp RTV, or some other sealant? The bearing caps make sense, but they don't work with Losi flywheels. There has to be another way to keep a sealant in place.

I haven't tried the RTV, But why don't you try a aftermarket clutch? M2C is a awesome 4 shoe clutch. I think the Flywheel on the Losi is a 34mm? Just and idea. I know it's another $50 but it might be worth it so you can run this seal.
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Old 05-07-2013 | 03:13 PM
  #5504  
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if you have a nova with the double seal, take off the first seal pack it with good high quality grease, and put back on the seal... works similar i think
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Old 05-07-2013 | 04:44 PM
  #5505  
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Originally Posted by kgombe
if you have a nova with the double seal, take off the first seal pack it with good high quality grease, and put back on the seal... works similar i think
Great mines think alike. Brian and I have tested exactly what you are doing. It is better than nothing but does not compare to the caps.

In fact, what we do, with Nova 17001 bearings is put the grease BUKU supplies with the caps between the 2 bearing seals and use the caps. Double seal - works fantastic.
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