You try M3 Holeshots or M3 Tasers?

Which hubs and .0 or .5 also do you have a standard or shaved u brace?

Thanks for posting this

Ok fun lets post our setups. I would really like somebody to try mine and tell me what you think.

Front
Shocks: 1/0
Link: 1A
Washers 1 blue 1mm washer 1 silver .030
Ride: 24mm
Bump: 2mm
Caster: 30
Springs: Black
Oil: 32.5 2x1.6
Camber: 1
Limiter: 3

Rear
Shocks: 1/0
Springs: Green
Oil: 30 2x1.6
Link: 1/B, A HUBS
Washers: 0
Wheelbase: Middle
Toe: 3
Squat: 2
Camber: 1
Limiter: 2
Ride: 24

B44 rear arms, ballast weight. Shorty pack all the way forward. No other weight added. Run in stock buggy with 69 spur.

Sorry I had to get back to work... Here's the rest:

0* hubs
Carbon unshaved u brace
Carbon top plate
Carbon front arms
44 rear arms
Ti ni ball studs
Esc in the correct position lol, on the side
Cvd's instead of cva's
Factory Tracks motor centering kit
XP ds1015 servo
Lrp flow 6/2/0/0/3
Reedy 8.5. 23/81
EPA... T 100% B 82%
24/24 ride height
JC finnisher with 6.5 HC wing cut to 1 line.

If traction is up, try gray rear springs.

To add to the piston discussion... I have tried Associated 1.6, Avid 1.5/1.1, Avid 1.6 and now Associated 1.4x3 in that order. My car has been really dialed with the 1.4x3. I have been running them with Front 35wt (Pink Kyosho Spring) and Rear 32.5wt (White Kyosho Spring). I feel that the 1.4's "pop" off jumps a little better and land with adequate dampening. The major difference I noticed was that the 1.4's took the "edge" out on low speed dampening especially with a light car.

+1 for me on carpet, the 1.7s felt really bad off of jumps. the 1.6's felt great.


Ultra7M: any interest in selling the avid pistons?

What do you guys feel shaving then raising the front spindle accomplishes?

Lower hub gives you a bit more droop out front, which gives you more on power/corner exit steering. Raising it does the opposite, as the weight transfers to the rear faster.

I run on fairly low-bite outdoor dirt tracks. What has been working for me is as follows.

Front
Shocks: 1/0
Link: 1A
Washers 1 blue 2mm washer
Ride: 24mm
Bump: 2mm
Caster: 30
Springs: Green
Oil: 32.5 2x1.6
Camber: -.5
Limiter: 3

Rear
Shocks: 1/I
Springs: White
Oil: 30 2x1.6
Link: 1/B, C HUBS
Washers: Shaved brace 0 washers
Wheelbase: Middle
Toe: 3
Squat: 2
Camber: -1/2
Limiter: 2
Ride: 23.5

All Plastic Parts. 0.5 Degree Rear Hubs, Wolfpack Shorty with center mount esc. Shorty Pushed forward with 14g behind servo. Full ballast under tranny mount. Running 8.5 with 24/81 gearing

Would love to hear suggestions on a better setup. So far this works fairly well; however if I touch the throttle at all on corner exit it wants to swap ends.

Hub? I thought you guys were lowering or raising the spindle to control how the car turns. Did I miss something?

stabbing the throttle is a bad idea always in the corner. roll in roll out.

I edited my post. The initial touch of roll in causes the car to become unsettled unless it is perfectly strait. I want to be able to roll the throttle on corner exit while still turning. The car seems good on low speed corner entry through mid but is loopy on exit unless strait. Car is perfect in sweeper, rear end stay planted and I can steer out with throttle.

The track is a fairly loose outdoor track right? Is it rough/uneven in spots? Elevation changes or off camber turns? If so A hubs with unshaved brace and 0 washers would be a good options.

However, I'd go down to only 2 limiters in the front first.

The white spring in back may be a touch too stiff as well.

Personally after all my indoor testing, I'm pretty sure there is no way I'm going to use the 1.6's in mine for outdoor season.

More front droop = more weight transfer to rear on power = less on power steering and more rear bite. Opposite for when you raise the spindle.

I would definitely start with a softer spring in the rear. Also, I am not sure the shaved brace and C hubs are the best for you. And your rear ride height might be too low for low bite out door. at least come back up to 24mm maybe even 24.5. Removing limiters can be a pain. I would try unscrewing the front shocks 1 turn at a time to see if you like the droop changes.