4LikesTeam Associated B4.2 Thread
03-14-2013 | 09:59 AM
#2836
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,595
From: Covington, La.
You would be susprised how fun carpet offroad is if you have not tried it before.
03-14-2013 | 10:10 AM
#2837
lol, I kinda prefer dirt. Too much traction lets bad people look good. On a loose track, you need a good trigger finger. So easy to go around the track on rails. But I understand that want all of the qualifiers to be fair. At my track, it would be impossible to keep it fair. even between heats 1 and 2, lol. Heat 1 gets a very wet track that will require you to clean your tires, heat 2 gets a much drier track with clean tires, lol.
03-14-2013 | 10:13 AM
#2838
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,595
From: Covington, La.
lol, I kinda prefer dirt. Too much traction lets bad people look good. On a loose track, you need a good trigger finger. So easy to go around the track on rails. But I understand that want all of the qualifiers to be fair. At my track, it would be impossible to keep it fair. even between heats 1 and 2, lol. Heat 1 gets a very wet track that will require you to clean your tires, heat 2 gets a much drier track with clean tires, lol.
03-14-2013 | 10:22 AM
#2839
Factory one
Live rc hooking factory one up with some love. Heres the link: http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ...is_protectors/
I will have one of these bad boys soon to test out.
Stay tuned for some of their other products coming out soon. For example, the big bore ultra bushings and a few different tire brushes for various uses.
I will have one of these bad boys soon to test out.
Stay tuned for some of their other products coming out soon. For example, the big bore ultra bushings and a few different tire brushes for various uses.
03-14-2013 | 10:24 AM
#2840
Tire bill isn't as crazy as you may think though. I mean if you go nuts on practice, sure.
But even if you had to put 'new tires' every run... That's what, 7 runs max IF you made the A's. And if you made the A's, one would assume you have sponsor help for tires anyway
.
And trust me, it's no different now than to do it like we did back then. Buy 7 pairs of tires or 4 batteries, 2 or 3 motors, AND 4 sets of tires.
But even if you had to put 'new tires' every run... That's what, 7 runs max IF you made the A's. And if you made the A's, one would assume you have sponsor help for tires anyway
.And trust me, it's no different now than to do it like we did back then. Buy 7 pairs of tires or 4 batteries, 2 or 3 motors, AND 4 sets of tires.
Traction is great, but it makes crappy drivers look better and the problem is that too many people think they are faster than they are!!
Believe me, I'd rather be racing on ifmar studs or ifmar pins outdoors!!!!
03-14-2013 | 10:51 AM
#2842
I'm happy just to not need 4-6 batteries per class now with multiple chargers and dischargers and matchers, not to mention a box of motors and all the assorted support equipment like motor lathes, dynos, magnetizers, and new brushes every run. Racing is much cheaper now than it was 20 years ago. Well, maybe the $9 tire foams are ridiculous...
One tire I would love to see back from the dead is the CRP 4223, that thing had crazy grip due to the rubber that no one else had.
03-14-2013 | 10:54 AM
#2843
+1 to studs
Anyway, A month or so ago, I commented to my wife that the novice drivers are a lot better than the novice drivers 10-15 years ago. At first i thought, well the advances in the cars. I think that is part of it, but I think its tires and new style tracks. Plus the lack of drag on brushless systems. I remember novices going hard into a corner, letting off and spinning out or pushing all the way into the pipe. A few weeks ago, the track was REALLY loose. Like rooster tails all the way around. Several of the drivers were complaining and refused to practice. I was like, so what you cant stomp the throttle and must use some control.
Anyway, A month or so ago, I commented to my wife that the novice drivers are a lot better than the novice drivers 10-15 years ago. At first i thought, well the advances in the cars. I think that is part of it, but I think its tires and new style tracks. Plus the lack of drag on brushless systems. I remember novices going hard into a corner, letting off and spinning out or pushing all the way into the pipe. A few weeks ago, the track was REALLY loose. Like rooster tails all the way around. Several of the drivers were complaining and refused to practice. I was like, so what you cant stomp the throttle and must use some control.
03-14-2013 | 03:58 PM
#2844
03-14-2013 | 04:14 PM
#2845
Aside from the fact that they are a-tower only, they seem to be good. I've used exotek stuff on other vehicles & seen the sc10 4x4 chassis in use. From what I've seen they make a good product. That said, if I were getting new aluminum hubs they would be the yaiba hubs. The yaiba hubs are still the only ones that are 0*, c-tower height (shim to get to a-tower), & vertical studs.
http://www.tresrey-usa.com/yaiba-rac...num-rear-hubs/
03-14-2013 | 04:26 PM
#2846
Hideeho
Aside from the fact that they are a-tower only, they seem to be good. I've used exotek stuff on other vehicles & seen the sc10 4x4 chassis in use. From what I've seen they make a good product. That said, if I were getting new aluminum hubs they would be the yaiba hubs. The yaiba hubs are still the only ones that are 0*, c-tower height (shim to get to a-tower), & vertical studs.
http://www.tresrey-usa.com/yaiba-rac...num-rear-hubs/
Aside from the fact that they are a-tower only, they seem to be good. I've used exotek stuff on other vehicles & seen the sc10 4x4 chassis in use. From what I've seen they make a good product. That said, if I were getting new aluminum hubs they would be the yaiba hubs. The yaiba hubs are still the only ones that are 0*, c-tower height (shim to get to a-tower), & vertical studs.
http://www.tresrey-usa.com/yaiba-rac...num-rear-hubs/
03-14-2013 | 04:49 PM
#2847
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Hideeho
Aside from the fact that they are a-tower only, they seem to be good. I've used exotek stuff on other vehicles & seen the sc10 4x4 chassis in use. From what I've seen they make a good product. That said, if I were getting new aluminum hubs they would be the yaiba hubs. The yaiba hubs are still the only ones that are 0*, c-tower height (shim to get to a-tower), & vertical studs.
http://www.tresrey-usa.com/yaiba-rac...num-rear-hubs/
Aside from the fact that they are a-tower only, they seem to be good. I've used exotek stuff on other vehicles & seen the sc10 4x4 chassis in use. From what I've seen they make a good product. That said, if I were getting new aluminum hubs they would be the yaiba hubs. The yaiba hubs are still the only ones that are 0*, c-tower height (shim to get to a-tower), & vertical studs.
http://www.tresrey-usa.com/yaiba-rac...num-rear-hubs/
03-14-2013 | 04:56 PM
#2849
+1 I run them and like them quite a bit. They don't have set screws to lock onto the hinge pin and the outside hole isn't a through hole so if you break off a ball stud you might have a tough time getting it out. But the machining is fantastic. VERY tight fit with the bearings.
03-14-2013 | 05:17 PM
#2850
+1 I run them and like them quite a bit. They don't have set screws to lock onto the hinge pin and the outside hole isn't a through hole so if you break off a ball stud you might have a tough time getting it out. But the machining is fantastic. VERY tight fit with the bearings.