The inserts make a big difference too. If your diff is too tight or notchy you might push too. When you do finally get the back end to break loose it will kick out pretty violently like you are driving a pickup truck in a parking lot with a posi in the back.

If the Rips work on your particular track, they're the best IMHO.

I know nothing about srs..but trust me...if your car is that bad, it's a tire issue or something is majorly wrong with the car. How tight is your diff? Ride height? blah blah blah....but im telling you, its something with the tries. What inserts and what compound? If it's an outdoor track and your running gold compound, that right their is the problem....

I had 2 stock ball cups spit, which is an issue with them. I went to the "old" J Concepts cups and they are money! When the "new" ones come out, I might get those but I like what I got right now and the kit comes with quite a few spares, so bonus!

I had the same issue with pushing and went the opposite direction. I added more washers under the ball stud on the front tower side for more roll and it fixed my problem. Try the stock set up and report back.

Diff on the tighter side. Ride height 24mm. Outdoor AKA inserts green compound rips in front dd's in rear.

AKA inserts in the front?

Hideeho
Try the stock open cell foam. Being outside I'm guessing its rather bumpy & dusty. Open cell absorbs the bumps better & lets the tire conform more to the uneven surface. Watch some videos of indoor tracks out in California & Arizona. Their tracks have a very smooth & even surface. That's when you want closed cell.

Taking out washers will make it even worse. Put 2mm of washers under the ball studs. If your diff is set correctly and you have the correct tire she should turn fine.

Actually SRS is pretty darn smooth for being outdoors...until monsoon season then it's not that great. I have ran closed cell there during cactus / states when its dry but on a normal club night when they water and im running a double dee rear and groovy/rip front i would run open cell front and rear...maybe a 2 stage rear but rarely closed cell.

Hideeho
That explains the mix of tires I got from you when I bought your buggy last year

The dirt at my track has gotten to a weird state. The surface is hard, but it is rather bumpy. When its wet its slick as ice. As it dries but is still moist the traction is through the roof to the point your tires choice doesn't make that big of a differences, everything sticks. As it dries more it gets dusty & its slick again. Then it will pick up a groove & ion/suburb/barcode type tires are AWSOME in the groove, but if you go wide & hit the dust out of the groove your going to slide. Because of how bumpy it is, open cell is the go to insert, even in ion/suburb/barcode type tires.

I didnt race at srs that often, usually only the bigger races. Those were from an indoor track that is run dry.

Moving on to strictly 1/8th for summer. I've listed a sweet b4.2 deal in the buy/sell section if anyone is interested

lol, I had 2 pretty good quals with my b4 this weekend, but in the main me and the car didnt seem to like each other much. After going through the buggy doing my weekly maintenance, I discovered a missing C hub screw........Apparently dynamic camber adjustment while driving, makes it suck, lol. Locktite is your friend....

Whats everyone thoughts on the new 4x1.3mm Tapered pistons from Associated? Has anyone tried them yet? Im currently using the 3x1.4mm pistons and prefer them over the 2x1.6mm pistons I was using prior to using them.

Any feedback would be great