I guess..dont knock it till u try it.. I will give it a shot since you have good feedback on it.

sorry to hear that happened man, especially since the diffs are such a pain to get to.

If they are salvageable, may be best to go straight .5 shims. I am assuming you did still limit your uptravel on the shocks?

Its been a good time building this truck , the diff's are easy to service as well .

The Pro-Lite makes the other's look like 1/8th scale Frankenstein conversions on the track ..

They all weight 6+ lbs ..

Pro-Lite lower weight & CG brings a huge advantage over the heavier trucks available ......

Interesting WC, aside from the Issue with the Diffs that Ive been having with my sc10 4x4 I like the truck alot, its lighter than the losi and I like the belt drive tunning options. I didnt want to have another shaft driven 4x4 but If I dont solve the diff issue Im going to have to move on.

CAIN: I thave the Factory Team 13mm shocks on my sc10 most inner position on shock towers front and rear.. and front arms inner position and rear arms outer position...no limitting on the uptravel. How does this relate to the diffs.

Im running on Carpet...do you think that maybe the high grip carpet surface puts more stress on the diffs since the tires dont slip as much?

Have anyone use this battery. Is this good for sc10 4x4
http://www.rcecho.com/2x-ZOP-Model-5...ery-CA201.html

based on what others have posted (I never had the issue directly) there is too much uptravel available causing the CVD bone to bang the diff cup and tweek the internal mesh. Again, going off of how I understood the issue.

Its possible then that this happened to you . I would limit the uptravel of the shock using those c clip things. I don't recall how much limiting you need, but you can find it in the thread. It varies slightly if you use the boots covering the shock shaft or not as well. That probably will solve your diff issue right there as with the limiting, I was able to run stock shims prior to AE's upgrade without clicking issues.

How does your car feel otherwise on carpet? Can you post your setup?

for the money if you are in the USA I probably would go with this:

http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=128

Building the FT kit...

The bearings that go on the diff outdrives were quite hard to get on, requiring a gentle press-fit. They are pushed all the way on.

However, with the transmissions built and UNinstalled with NO bolts in them, just holding them in my hand, pinched between my fingers makes them bind a little bit and not free spin. Even relaxed, with no bolts in the case, they're not perfect. I'd call them "snug" when you go to turn them. Not notchy, just stiff.

When fully assembled w/motor plate, etc. they feel the same. There is no change (they didn't bind worse); but they're not totally free spinning like a traditional Stealth trans would be either.

Has anyone run into this before? Basically seems to be some runout in the main diff gear. They're not completely bound and not hammering on a hard spot, but they just don't spin freely like I expected.

Any input would be appreciated.

Also note I've been through all of the main SC10 4x4 page with all the build tips and nothing really mentions or applies to this.

Don't worry , sounds like you assemble correctly ..
After running the truck a few packs it will break in and drive train will be smoother ...

check all the screws to see if you installed a longer screw where it does not belong .
Just loosen each one individually and spin the drive train to ck if this has occurred..

WC is correct. Main thing is that it does move with some resistance and you built it without the shim that goes between the diff case and the diff cup since you are using the .5mm shims.

I did install the .5mm shims onto the outdrive, prior to building the diff. The diff action is fine.. not quite sure if you were referring to a different shim.

However the one I'm talking about won't cause the drag like this.

Thanks for.the help

The factory team I got in came with a shim that went inbetween the diff cup and the actual diff case. in the instructions AE sent out with the .5mm shim they said not to use that shim mentioned. If yo udidn't do anything like that, I think you just need to run in your diffs personally.

I spent an hour trying to get this bind out of mine. No luck. After 6 runs on Saturday it's as free as a bird. I would almost consider running it on a stand a bit at home. I was paranoid about getting the motor hot so I started a few teeth lower than where I wanted to be. No problems at all. Hope this eases your mind a little!!

Scottie that's all I came up with. Prob hook it up to my drill and just let it run a while.

Thanks

edit, thx