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Old 02-11-2012 | 11:03 PM
  #17296  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Although I totally agree with you, and would brofist you, It's unlikely anything will change. We don't decide where we drive. We chase the series and if it ends up at an 8th scale track (which it will) We are stuck with it. That's the reality. Until SC goes 8th scale, or tracks ditch their 8th scale design, We are at the whim of out disadvantage.
(They will not change the track, 8th scale is where their money is)

SC is the "hack class" too, yknow. The few good drivers get mauled in the first corner by said "assholes" then get to play catch up because they were the last to be marshaled the rest of the race. (strategic planning for that aside) SC is the entry into racing, it saved the hobby, no disputing that. But we are the noobies, and when the hobby went downhill, 1 out of 10, 10th scale tracks remained in areas not packed with Team Drivers. And that blows.


Why did you just flip a bitch and now say the Truck won't perform as intended on 1/8. I thought it just required cheese, WC?

But: You're absolutely right. I see: Unless it's a buggy (1/10 or 1/8), Everything else is not taken too seriously.

Side Note: I really wish they still have the MT Class. That was such light hearted fun.
Yeah remember when it was fun and when you got or hacked we all laughed,Ahhh childhood. I do go into the first turn last nowadays it seems to be faster. I just like 1/10 because it requires a little more throttle control and rithym. I love 1/10 stadium truck and we still run it around here IT'S GREAT. Just do not want to see this class go that route. Realistic trucks a little finnese on driving could be alot of FUN. Actually I just sold all my 1/8 stuff. Got my SC10 4x4 ready now to be built Havoc with 4.5 arived yesterday WoooHooo!!!Savox 1258 arrived thursday
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Old 02-11-2012 | 11:25 PM
  #17297  
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Originally Posted by Resqnu
I would normally change after every 2or 3 races. I was installing a Exotek chassis today and noticed some of the 3x14mm chassis screws were too long for the Exotek chassis holes. Is this normal? If so will the 3x12mm work as they screw all the way in.
I changed the four 14mm screws to 12mm ones on mine.
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Old 02-11-2012 | 11:27 PM
  #17298  
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Does anyone know if the new FT SC10 will come with a pinned rear top shaft? I was looking at the parts list on AE's site & it looks like they used the same pics & part numbers as our standard sc10 4x4...maybe it does & maybe it doesn't?
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Old 02-11-2012 | 11:47 PM
  #17299  
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Originally Posted by BLbound
Does anyone know if the new FT SC10 will come with a pinned rear top shaft? I was looking at the parts list on AE's site & it looks like they used the same pics & part numbers as our standard sc10 4x4...maybe it does & maybe it doesn't?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10260006-post16286.html

It uses a VTS slipper Basket, A plastic version of sorts, of MTK's. No pinned.
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Old 02-12-2012 | 12:26 AM
  #17300  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
I TQ'd the PNWS.
Rip it Up Dude !!!!

sorry could not make it
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Old 02-12-2012 | 12:40 AM
  #17301  
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Default Denver's Rumble in the Rocky's

Originally Posted by 05PSD
Watching Scott on LiveRC; I noticed he was having trouble keeping the front end down off the triples. Obviously it didn't hurt him much at all but he was landing with the front end in the air 75% of the time in his last race.

Edited: Seems he's figured it out in the latest heat.


Notice that as well , nailing the landings on the 2nd round...


Still, bad luck with a ESC in third 3rd round .


I know Scott , he'll get her done on the 4th round ....
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Old 02-12-2012 | 01:26 AM
  #17302  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10260006-post16286.html

It uses a VTS slipper Basket, A plastic version of sorts, of MTK's. No pinned.
Thanks Shaun...I wonder why they didn't go with a pinned rear shaft...ya I saw their version of the clutch basket...interesting.
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Old 02-12-2012 | 03:12 AM
  #17303  
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Default exotek shock fluid wt's

i'd be interested to hear what shock fluid wt's people are using who are running the exotek chassis.. i'm still running the 25/30 and no complaints so far...
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Old 02-12-2012 | 06:46 AM
  #17304  
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Originally Posted by bcrazy
Just a little muddy to start the day. Ended with a win

Luv it!! Thats the way a race truck should look after after tearing it up and topping the podium!! Looks like you just finished running hard on a wet and rutted out round at Glenn Helen! Speaking of, i know its off topic but are trucks are based off these..Here is a sweet vid of the end of the loors, it's this years last event in the series, and is a cup race that pits 2wd vs 4wd's!!
Again, sorry for being off topic just hope the clip may be enjoyed by others, and if your into racing at any level you will enjoy this battle (not to mention there is as much hacking as we have to deal with in our beloved 1/10 / 1/8 scale sct classes jk)!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PL...layer_embedded
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Old 02-12-2012 | 06:59 AM
  #17305  
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Originally Posted by Resqnu
I would normally change after every 2or 3 races. I was installing a Exotek chassis today and noticed some of the 3x14mm chassis screws were too long for the Exotek chassis holes. Is this normal? If so will the 3x12mm work as they screw all the way in.
yes, this is normal. you will have to cut the or put shorter screws in.
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Old 02-12-2012 | 07:19 AM
  #17306  
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Originally Posted by Arakon
I just saw that the manual recommends that when the belt tension is right, if you push in the middle of the belt, it should at most give by 3mm. Mine gives easily to the center divider. I tightened the front tensioner from the recommended 1 position to 3, and it made little difference. Is that normal and the manual is wrong, or is my belt too long?
Can anyone give me a hint here? I'd rather not tear the belt on the first run.
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Old 02-12-2012 | 07:28 AM
  #17307  
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Originally Posted by Sofa King
I changed the four 14mm screws to 12mm ones on mine.
Originally Posted by symmetricon
yes, this is normal. you will have to cut the or put shorter screws in.
Thanks guys. I am running front 32.5 and rear 27.5 shock fluid with yellow front springs and blue rear. Is this setup still good for the Exotek? I know I will have to tune a few adjustment with the added weight.
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Old 02-12-2012 | 07:31 AM
  #17308  
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Originally Posted by mrjeremyaaron
i'd be interested to hear what shock fluid wt's people are using who are running the exotek chassis.. i'm still running the 25/30 and no complaints so far...
Here it the setup I used on a slick smooth clay and really liked it:
Shock mounts and ball studs in the middle locations (outward hole on the arms)

MMP
Pro4
Center Dif
Green barcodes
Exotek

Front:
Yellow spring/sway
1mm camber shim
-1 camber
0 to maybe .5 toe out
27.5 shock oil
5k diff oil

Rear:
Blue spring/sway
1mm camber shim
-1 camber
3-2 block
25wt shock
5k diff
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Old 02-12-2012 | 09:02 AM
  #17309  
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Originally Posted by BLbound
Does anyone know if the new FT SC10 will come with a pinned rear top shaft? I was looking at the parts list on AE's site & it looks like they used the same pics & part numbers as our standard sc10 4x4...maybe it does & maybe it doesn't?
the rear top shaft flats have been lengthened and they are making a coupled inner slipper hub.
So instead of having the pain in the butt pin to put in or out, you just change the inner slipper hub to go between coupled and decoupled
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Old 02-12-2012 | 09:09 AM
  #17310  
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Originally Posted by truck driver
the rear top shaft flats have been lengthened and they are making a coupled inner slipper hub.
So instead of having the pain in the butt pin to put in or out, you just change the inner slipper hub to go between coupled and decoupled
I wonder how long before they come out with their version of the ball diff?
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