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Old 01-12-2013 | 09:56 AM
  #32146  
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My loss on Wednesday will be my fault, not the trucks.
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Old 01-12-2013 | 09:59 AM
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nice setup. the truck is a very good truck, you just have to tune it to your conditions. Highly durable suspension parts.

I have heard the copperhead system is good.
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Old 01-12-2013 | 01:15 PM
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Just waiting on my diff shims to come in from associated now. I will be going into wed race with really no track time and will not get there in time to practice and setup much. It is newred hobbies in ocala Fl. It is all over YouTube, but it is a hard packed clay indoor track. High traction. With me going in cold, what do you guys feel would be a good starting point on fr and rear spring. I bought both spring kits. Ready for some experience
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Old 01-12-2013 | 01:46 PM
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I have just bought the Tekin RX8 and the Pro 4 4600 Kv What spur and pinion
should I start with.Thanks FatMike78
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Old 01-12-2013 | 01:51 PM
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broke my third servo saver in a half year today... i have to do sth. against it. I thought about locking up the hole servo saver and then use a cheap drop-on-servo-saver like this one: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ver-Airtronics has anyone tried sth. like that?
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Old 01-12-2013 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by hunter77
Just waiting on my diff shims to come in from associated now. I will be going into wed race with really no track time and will not get there in time to practice and setup much. It is newred hobbies in ocala Fl. It is all over YouTube, but it is a hard packed clay indoor track. High traction. With me going in cold, what do you guys feel would be a good starting point on fr and rear spring. I bought both spring kits. Ready for some experience
I'd say start with one of the AE setups you see online. You may find however that a front spring on the rear performs better, but I would say try one that seems to look like the conditions you would run on and report back. If you find there are sections where more suspension action, basically quicker could be a benefit, try a stiffer spring. I would say go to Blue Fronts or I think the next lightest, white fronts? For indoor carpet loved blue fronts on the rear.

Originally Posted by FatMike78
I have just bought the Tekin RX8 and the Pro 4 4600 Kv What spur and pinion
should I start with.Thanks FatMike78
I would start with either a 12T or 13T pinion depending on track size, but seems like a good spot to start.

Got some info on the Reedy motor from an AE rep, sounds like something I would be interested in for outdoors. For the track conditions I described to him, carpet very small track, little to no run up of jumps off of 180 degree turns, he stated that the Reedy motors has less initial punch so the 540 Pro4 might be a little better for the conditions I described.

It does have a a better drag brake action off power from what he stated which could be a real benefit as well as the more linear braking he described.

I think I'll give a look for outdoors when that pics up again, could then use the new Reventon pro since they can't use 4 pole motors.
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Old 01-12-2013 | 03:32 PM
  #32152  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx


Not the story Cameron told me either but maybe he felt the need to lie to me, consider tha fact that he was part of the center dif R+D AND he did the actual install article as well as wrote the RCShox feature articles on BigRC http://www.thebigrc.com/?p=2185 i guess that would make sense....... Maybe WC didnt take his meds that day , ya never know! Old age is a BEATCH!! It really doesnt matter, everytime you start talking about it my sales go up so WC keep flapping your gums, my family appreciates it buddy! OOOPS I gotta go make more center difs TTYL
I'll be ordering one of those nifty ackerman bars they look awesome. I was going to get the exotek one originally but thanks for putting a link to yours. I forgot you made one. I didn't realize it had 4 different mounting positions for a wider range of steering control where everyone else has only 2 max.
I also like that your ackerman bar has bearings which I can only assume make movement super smooth with no binding and a carbon material can only be lightweight and strong.
I'll also be ordering a spare spur gear for the v.2 center diff, just in case lol.
I haven't even ran my just installed v.2 center diff because of novak races at my local track but I am looking forward to it as I found the the stock slipper blows $%#
So it can't be anything less than a amazing difference


I also got m2c toe block in the mail today
all I need is the exotek hubs and those should be here next week.


so just opened it up and my instructions are for scte truck it says that I have drill bits???? I think I read somewhere else this has happened, its the right kit says associated 4x4 toe block kit on the packaging and looks the same.
I got the right manual off rcshortcourse thanks cain lol
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...ion-sheet.html

Last edited by AE SC10 4X4; 01-12-2013 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 01-12-2013 | 04:30 PM
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Any good recommendations for fixing a temp sensor to motor can? Would be interested to hear from the few that use them how they have attached them
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Old 01-12-2013 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bbradyc5
Any good recommendations for fixing a temp sensor to motor can? Would be interested to hear from the few that use them how they have attached them
Zip tie
Reads 2° cooler than my rayteck temp gun
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-2013-01-12_17-11-40_369.jpg  
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Old 01-12-2013 | 05:51 PM
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no prob. I remember when that happened to someone else about the instructions. Looking forward to hearing your impressions on the Center Diff in comparison to your previous slipper assembly (Clutch basket / VTS style one?)
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Old 01-12-2013 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by fq06
Zip tie
Reads 2° cooler than my rayteck temp gun
Perfect thanks, like the heat shrink over the sensor too.
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Old 01-12-2013 | 06:59 PM
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That's just how the MT4 sensor comes, can't take credit.
Just get it snug and its good.
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Old 01-12-2013 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
no prob. I remember when that happened to someone else about the instructions. Looking forward to hearing your impressions on the Center Diff in comparison to your previous slipper assembly (Clutch basket / VTS style one?)
I've been using the v.1 slipper pad assembly, but got some garodisks in it not having to constantly skuff up the stock pads is nice and they work well, the truck just does not have the power I need in short spaces and trying to lay down power to pull myself around corners or out of corners is slow. It has power but it seems like I have to work up to it. Otherwise on the straights I have the time and distance to fly. I am running on a smooth clay track slightly damp with lots of traction and am thinking to try the 3.5 toe.

Cain thanks again for posting up that pic of the M2C manual for the SC10
Its a bit difficult to understand but I think I got the basics.
There are 6 inserts blocks and they have different notch or drilled marks.
4 white 2 black

1 notch center (white) x2 = 3.2 setting
Using the 2 identical notch center blocks (white) rotated down installed on both passenger and driver side = 3.2 setting?

1 notch off center (white)x1 = 2.75/3.25
1 notch off center (black)x1
Using the 1 notch off center (white) on driver side and 1 notch off center (black) on passenger side rotated down = 2.75 toe
if I switch the 1 notch off center (black) from passenger side to driver side and do the same with other block = 3.25

2 notch off center (white)x1 = 3.50/2.50
2 notch off center(black)x1
So to get the 3.5 maximum toe I would use
2 notch off center (white) on driver side and 2 notch off center (black) on passenger side rotated down = 3.5 toe

2 notch off center (white) on passenger side and 2 notch off center (black) driver side = 2.5 toe ?

There is a driver and passenger side
I'm assuming looking at the block as it would be mounted and with lettering visible left is driver side and right is passenger side?





regular squat = notches rotated down
-1 anti squat = notches rotated up

If this isn't how it works I am so screwed


Originally Posted by Cain
Anyone notice that the instructions for the 2.75 or 3.25 settings seems backwards when looking at the inserts in the block? I wanted to try the 2.5 and 2.75 settings for more rotation on a carpet track, but it seemed the description when actually putting them in was wrong.

The side of the hole that had less material I thought would be more to the inside of the block, so you have less of an angle for less toe in. But the way it looked when putting them in via the instructions it seemed opposite?
Did you ever figure this out?

Last edited by AE SC10 4X4; 01-15-2013 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 01-12-2013 | 08:55 PM
  #32159  
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lol. Man I am confused just thinking about that all again lol.

Honestly, I think I went with what looked correct from what I recall as the toe angle for the 2.75 setting they stated seemed wrong.

Sorry can't be of much more help. I will say this, give M2C an email or call, they responded quickly last time I sent them a message I believe.
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Old 01-12-2013 | 08:58 PM
  #32160  
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Originally Posted by Cain
lol. Man I am confused just thinking about that all again lol.

Honestly, I think I went with what looked correct from what I recall as the toe angle for the 2.75 setting they stated seemed wrong.

Sorry can't be of much more help. I will say this, give M2C an email or call, they responded quickly last time I sent them a message I believe.
Thanks for checking it quickly thanks again wouldn't of gotten this far without you
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