SC10 4x4 Thread
it would be nice it it worked like he says. I seems there are 2 camps the rc shox v2 C Diff and the locked from hub. If I had a choice, I would use the locked hub because there is no special spur gear. and i can replace the gear at the track if i want.
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 37
From: Seattle, WA
FT stock setup is pretty good on loose dry track with rear camber link raised and tweak the shock oils to your liking. Tire choice, tire choice, tire choice. I am running no added weight with 4pole 540 and Nanotech saddles and love the way it drives. Wanting to try the Exo inner slipper hub for some more pull out of the corners but don't want to give up steering. I like lots of steering. Also having very good results with the Garodisc's paired with 10k in the front and 5k in the rear. Truck can literally be thrown into a corner without fear of over rotation or oversteer. Just looking for that little bit of pull out of the corner that I am loosing compared to the Losi.
I read it. It was pretty convincing. I bought it for 11$ after shipping. I will give er a shot and report back about it next week. Probably wouldn't have pulled the trigger if it wasn't so cheap of an upgrade. Well see....
I run high bite too. Very slick sometimes
I run high bite too. Very slick sometimes
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,207
i wrote the article so id love to hear what other racers thought. im sure there will be another article about it the more i run it.
for slick tracks it seems to work pretty well. for a tacky track im not sure yet.
for slick tracks it seems to work pretty well. for a tacky track im not sure yet.
Last edited by twisted; 07-13-2012 at 04:07 PM.
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 105
From: Cornwall
Looking for some advice.
I drive on short grass and use Fastrax Kourse kings as there is little other choice for grass.
I'm having trouble with the back end breaking free and spinning out half way round the long sweeper at the end of our straight. I can make the rear end step out all to easily on most of the other medium speed corners as well, I just can't seem to get it as planted as my 2wd.
Any tips on how to tune out the oversteer or tune in some under steer would be greatly appreciated.
It behaves very much like its been explained on here and needs fine, precise controlling and doesn't respond well to being thrown in to corners but I just feel that razor edge handling can be tamed a little more.
I can keep with one of the fastest guys at our track driving his X6 with 5.5t motor but the slightest lapse of concentration and I'm doing doughnuts and playing catch up.
Any advice?
FT truck and a front spring kit are my only tuning tools. Currently on stock shock internals and oils.
I drive on short grass and use Fastrax Kourse kings as there is little other choice for grass.
I'm having trouble with the back end breaking free and spinning out half way round the long sweeper at the end of our straight. I can make the rear end step out all to easily on most of the other medium speed corners as well, I just can't seem to get it as planted as my 2wd.
Any tips on how to tune out the oversteer or tune in some under steer would be greatly appreciated.
It behaves very much like its been explained on here and needs fine, precise controlling and doesn't respond well to being thrown in to corners but I just feel that razor edge handling can be tamed a little more.
I can keep with one of the fastest guys at our track driving his X6 with 5.5t motor but the slightest lapse of concentration and I'm doing doughnuts and playing catch up.
Any advice?
FT truck and a front spring kit are my only tuning tools. Currently on stock shock internals and oils.
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 292
From: Hawkes Bay. New Zealand
Yes it will add a little wear on the washer, but it will last years, and I like to be inventive.
Looking for some advice.
I drive on short grass and use Fastrax Kourse kings as there is little other choice for grass.
I'm having trouble with the back end breaking free and spinning out half way round the long sweeper at the end of our straight. I can make the rear end step out all to easily on most of the other medium speed corners as well, I just can't seem to get it as planted as my 2wd.
Any tips on how to tune out the oversteer or tune in some under steer would be greatly appreciated.
It behaves very much like its been explained on here and needs fine, precise controlling and doesn't respond well to being thrown in to corners but I just feel that razor edge handling can be tamed a little more.
I can keep with one of the fastest guys at our track driving his X6 with 5.5t motor but the slightest lapse of concentration and I'm doing doughnuts and playing catch up.
Any advice?
FT truck and a front spring kit are my only tuning tools. Currently on stock shock internals and oils.
I drive on short grass and use Fastrax Kourse kings as there is little other choice for grass.
I'm having trouble with the back end breaking free and spinning out half way round the long sweeper at the end of our straight. I can make the rear end step out all to easily on most of the other medium speed corners as well, I just can't seem to get it as planted as my 2wd.
Any tips on how to tune out the oversteer or tune in some under steer would be greatly appreciated.
It behaves very much like its been explained on here and needs fine, precise controlling and doesn't respond well to being thrown in to corners but I just feel that razor edge handling can be tamed a little more.
I can keep with one of the fastest guys at our track driving his X6 with 5.5t motor but the slightest lapse of concentration and I'm doing doughnuts and playing catch up.
Any advice?
FT truck and a front spring kit are my only tuning tools. Currently on stock shock internals and oils.
To gain more cornering traction in the rear you need to either stiffen the front or soften the rear. Best way is with swaybars and/or roll center adjustments that have been beat to death in this thread.
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,207
Yes great write up, I made my own inside clutch, I had some old slipper pads, these are white and seem to be some kind of Teflon, they appear to be old factory ones I picked up somewhere, I found what we call here in NZ a penny washer, just a flat washer, inside hole same as top shaft, outside same as slipper pad, so put one pad, then washer, then next slipper pad then outside clutch plate, and just like that you have a locked inside with a FT outside set up, cost $000, and like I've said before, works great.
Yes it will add a little wear on the washer, but it will last years, and I like to be inventive.
Yes it will add a little wear on the washer, but it will last years, and I like to be inventive.
nice, nothing wrong with making things yourself.
While running the 8mm modification, i have a question. I am running my rear ride height at 23mm and with the blue front shocks on back.
I normally run west coast Raceway which is high bite clay indoor track. I hear a lot of people saying get the a arms parallel with the ground so they are horizontal. Is it more important to keep the ride height at 23mm?
I normally run west coast Raceway which is high bite clay indoor track. I hear a lot of people saying get the a arms parallel with the ground so they are horizontal. Is it more important to keep the ride height at 23mm?
Is anyone else having an issue with their sc10 being really loud? Alot of people think my 4x4 is a losi because its so loud lol. I'm going to tear everything down and relube, refill oils etc, but I just want to make sure if there's anything I need to look out for that is causing my sc10 to be so loud.
also check your idler gear, when they got worn that always seemed to be why my 2wd associated cars got loud.



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