i got this one but it needs a little work to fit smoothly

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Gear-Plastic

here is the 46t version

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-46T-Spur-Gear

and here is the mugen 44t and 46t

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Spur-Gear-44T

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Spur-Gear-46T

Does anyone know where part# 600489 would be used?

looks like this?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ion-Brace-Tube

In the 811e manual, the part number named "Aluminum Transmission Brace Tube" , is listed under the category " Chassis / Guards Optional "

along with the aluminum chassis braces (fr/rr) and the hard anodized chassis.

However, I don't see it as part of the installation for the 811e. Maybe this is for the nitro version? I think maybe its used to help attach the rear chassis support somewhere, or used on the center diff housing someway ... not sure really.

there is a similar sized hole on the rear alum brace:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Chassis-Brace

im sure the nitro manual would specify how its used/installed.

Thanks Nizzles!!!

Out of curiosity, what sort of 'little work' do the Kyosho/Mugen spur gears need to 'fit smoothly'? I'm only asking out of sheer curiosity, as I'm 150% mechanically/technically apt to do anything on these guys to get em to fit.. Just making sure that I don't have to put these on the mill at the shop, and that I can do them at the track if need be.

Thanks man!!

The Associated 46t spur for the RC8Be fits. Only thing you have to do is use an extra diff gasket or two because it squishes the internal gears a little more then I would like.

I have been running it for a few weeks now with no issues.

+1 The rc8E spur fits without modification. I have had it on mine since I built the car. Gary put it on his and had to add an extra gasket. I didn't, so apparently there is a little room in the manufacturer's tolerances.

Yeah that's the part. But like you, I couldn't find where it was used in the build. I just find it curious that it's listed in the e buggy manual.

Does it replace the two screws that mount the rear chassis brace to the bulkhead, if it is it's kinda pointless.

I looked through both the nitro and electric manuals, and I didn't see this part (600489) listed in any of the step by step instructions, or any of the blow up diagrams (almost typed 'doll' instead.. ) ... only place I found it at all, was the electric manual in the parts listing.

now Im really curious, so maybe one of the team reps can comment?

I believe the Kyosho spur needs some grinding on the inner portion of the tube with a dremel. Maybe the outer portion as well where the bearing sits. I had to do both.

idk, I got 1 and took about 10 mins to get it fit smooth to try it out... but im running the stock gear now, it seems plenty quiet to me, but then again Im a nitro guy so Im usually the guy still screaming because I cant hear from the nitros running...

I can barely hear it when Im up on the stand, only when the car comes close by for a sec or two...

elec is still a trip for me; because I can see my car going, but I dont hear the engine or the throttle, so I feel completely surprised when I jam the throttle and the car takes off!!

... and I kinda like yelling!! especially at the turn marshals!! its funny to watch guys turn marshal who mostly run 1/8 elec. they're better than 1/10 scale elec 4 sure, but sometimes they look like they're about to pick up a dead rat!

I also think that anyone who is disabled or has a disability should not be asked to turn marshal, that is just cruel and I wish track officiators would change that. It happens more than u think.

_

+1 I use the RC8e one as well, but had to use the stock gasket and the AE gasket. So quite, much nicer on the indoor tracks.

-James

I've finished to build my Cobra a couple of days ago. Nothing to do with the real Serpent kit i was used in the past. I've built a 950R, Impact 2wd and an Impulse Pro back in the '90's and those kits were way different. Don't get me wrong, this kit is beatifull, the quality of the metal parts is awesome but the pòastics sucks.
Here the problems i found out during the build
1) rear diff.l housing: the holes where the 25mm screws goes are conical, not straight. I found it out while wrenchin, the more i turn in the screwdriver, the more it became hard to get them in. This caused the screw to strip in place and got stuck inside the part a coupple of mm's before it's proper place, the screw is ruined and doesn't come out, the diff case doesn't close so i have to cut the whole thing to take out the diff.l. On a side note: when i've realized it was to hard for the screw to go inside i stopped, it was simply to late to screw it back for the size of the Allen screw.
This means i've to buy another rear diff. l housing and the 25mm screws

2) Shim's : how come i just got 0,2mm's shims when in the manual it's clearly stated that i've to use also 0,1mm's? I usually double check the shims with a vernier caliper and this is what i found out. Gotta buy shims too

3)Front bracket: put inside the bolt and started to wrench the screw from the bottom of the chassis i realized, after a coupple of turns, that the plastic where the bolt goes were chewed up so the bolt slips in place and do not allow me to close the screw since there's no way to hold the bolt while screwing. When i took out the bolt i've found out the problem was the bolt had some weird thread and locked the bolt after a turn and a half. Beside the stupid bolt, now i have to add to the list another front bracket.

The istruction booklet have a good print and designs but certain details needed more accuracy.

Now, sorry if my explanation isn't the best, it's not common for me to use technical terms, but i believe that this kind of troubles should not happen with a Serpent Kit, there's someting wrong here. When i built the last one i wouldn't believe that such things could happen even in a cheap chinese kit.

Whaaaaa?????? Sorry Nizzles, but where in the hell do you race at!?!?!?! LMFAO!!! That's just awful, if that's really true. Are you sure the track/race director is aware of their disabilities/condition? I can't believe that at all!

I tell ya what though, I think that they shouldn't let people marshal if they're under the age of 13. Often times, you get the wonderful luck of the draw, and some of the experienced drivers, bring their whole damn family along with them for a full race day (not just an evening or afternoon club race... mind you). So since they drug their entire family along with them, they have no alternative for 'babysitters', so instead they sign their kids up to race in a class.. And I mean really!!!!??? C'mon dude, have common courtesy/respect for your fellow racers. I'm sorry, but just because your wife is mad that you wanted to spend the day/weekend away from your family, doesn't mean you have to bring them along to bore them, because you think "it'd be a good/fun idea for the kids". Sure, on any other day of the week, but not on a legitimate RACE EVENT day. Sorry, but that just pisses me off.. Because then you get the kids in the heats/qualifiers driving backwards, sitting in the middle of a jump/landing, slamming into you, as you come around to lap, etc. That's just nonsense.

Like I said, yes the hobby is a FUN, FAMILY-oriented hobby.. But that doesn't mean you can't do the same thing for your kids, during practice or on another day, say when it ISN'T a points event, or doesn't involve a purse prize. That's just retarded. Lol.

Oh and then to let them be a marshal for the next race!?!?!! Now that's just straight irresponsible of the parent/track director, to even allow that.


GRRRR

End rant lol.

I do agree with you that the plastics are a little weak. I too turned the nut inside the front brace, but dummy me had the nut upside down. The nitro version was my first true ground up build, and I thought it was pretty self explanatory, and well put. I do wish they would have put extra shims in the kit to shim out slop and gear mesh. And the screws, lol. Other than that, I love to drive and wrench on these buggies

Chad, i love to wrench around too, that doesn't mean that i have to have issues out of the box beacause of poor quality plastics. I've no doubt the car is the best piece of 1/8 EP buggy around.

^ I put the white grease (that came with the kit) on each screw that went into plastic and had no issues with any diff housing, front bracket or otherwise. Also, as others here have mentioned, getting a brand new 2.0 mm driver wrench helps ALLOT.

The plastics DO seem very high quality, much better than others. I guess everyone has different experiences with "wrenching", but this is the first I've heard of serious build issues... hope things go more smoothly..

--

Weavty1, that is hillarious! I always get a kick out of watching the "family" fun at the track. As a kid, my family wouldn't let me go (maybe like twice - so I had my own track in the backyard so my mom could watch while doing the dishes), so I can at least appreciate the families that do make an effort.

But on any given 'normal' weekend, it's fine, but you're right, when its a big race event, and the "im feeling a little more serious" cap comes on, then I get a little tired of extra noise.

I have seen a few people at a couple tracks that do have disabilities - for them, just getting up and down the drivers stand is a real chore. I have also heard other people, telling them, that they "need to help marshal".

This doesn't necessarily come from a coordinator, but I don't see a coordinator or director calling out during a drivers meeting that they are exempt... which I think needs to happen, and something I will probably mention at the next drivers meeting I attend!

When I hear this, I just say "no, its ok, I will take his spot"... but there is definitely a certain stigma and level of intimidation felt for people to marshal...

Meanwhile, the guy still bragging about his race is on his way back to the pits and the guy dedicated to help marshal is hobbling over to the side next to the landing after a big jump... lol.

_