they prob didnt include the 0.1mm shims cause IMO they are not needed, I used the 0.2's and yes the drive train was tight but it broke in nicely. What kind of wrenches are you using? I used a electric driver with EDS tips, I ran they screws in and then took them out and put them in again. Much easier that way.

Tony i use Hudy tools. I was wrong when i stated "Poor quality plastics" i mean poor quality mold or finish, since the problem i've found out in the diff.l case is about the seat of the 25mm's screws. , actually the hole is to narrow to allow the allen screw to go all the way down and sit in place.

What do you think of my setup guys?

Coming in the post very soon:
Hobbywing Xerun 150A ESC
Xerun 2250KV Motor
Turnigy 5300Mah 50-100C Lipo x2 EC5 connectors
Ace 1015 Servo
Spektrum 3520 Recievier

So excited =P

Looks good make sure u buy some springs and things

This part (600489) is used instead of 600204. Both on electro, and on nitro versions...

If i was to buy front and rear springs, do i have to buy from Serpent or can i use a different brand? Serpent is quite expensive i think i was quoted £7 for pair of front springs +£1.50 shipping.

I use Durango also use Losi

Going to try porkchops setup, im aiming for Blue/Green (5.0/5.4lb) in the fronts with Yellow/Green (3.8/3.4) in the rear. And 40/30 oils front/rear.

I bought my car 2nd hand and the diff oils are setup as so: 5k, 7k, 3k front/mid/rear, should i change it to the usual 5k 5k 3k? What effect does a thicker centre diff have on the car?

Also people are using webbed bladders, do i need this? What do they do? And also people changing the shock piston, whats the stock pistons used? How much effect do these things have overall?

^ right off the bat, Im using web bladders + CSI pistons (new black). the Sperpent upgrades have done pretty well too.. not sure who is running the stock pistions and having good luck with them.

A thicker center diff will you give you better acceleration, and put more focus of "diffing" action to the front and rear.

Typically, for nitro, I like to run 7-10k center, but for this e-buggy, 5k seems to be plenty so far, unless the track is really rutted and blown out, then drop down.

The webbed bladders hold their contextual "form" and don't "collapse" like the stock ones, which cause the rebound of the shock to be affected and also potentially cause the shocks to leak. Otherwise, put Losi foam compensators in the stock ones.

GOOO KINGS!!!!

whoooooooo cant wait till get my buggy today we looking toward for big comp comming up

So I got a new body that I would like to have painted by someone on the site. Not sure who yet. But I was wondering if I should trim the body to my likings first before sending the body? Or do painters prefer a "virgin" shell?

Question! Speaking of bodies for the 811-Be, are there any other companies out there that makes a body for the buggy, besides the OEM Serpent flavor?

Absolute Hobbies has some.
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=4303

Sorry, forgot I was in the electric thread...

Yeah, I'm talking about a Serpent e-buggy body......