Serpent 811E Buggy Thread
#2296
#2298
Tech Initiate
Everything came in the post today!
But im out of solder lol.
Sorry for camera pic.
#2300
Tech Initiate
I got a bit of a problem, when i turn the steering the Servo housing moves slightly left and right, and also it doesnt seem to centre correctly, always off to the side i just turned slightly.
Any ideas? Using Ace 1015 Servo.
When the Servo Horn is disconnected from the rest of the steering there is no movement in the Servo housing.
How stiff should the wheels be to turn when the Servo is disconnected? Mine is not totally free and has some resistance.
Any ideas? Using Ace 1015 Servo.
When the Servo Horn is disconnected from the rest of the steering there is no movement in the Servo housing.
How stiff should the wheels be to turn when the Servo is disconnected? Mine is not totally free and has some resistance.
#2301
check any binding with the steering plate mounted to the bellcrank arms. from what i have read in previous posts, its easy to crank the screws of the plate (option 3 is stock with the kit) too much which can cause it to bind when turning left and right.
back off the screws a quarter or half turn and check the steering with the horn disconnected. the steering should be "extremely" easy and fast & free to turn without the horn attached on the servo.
once thats free, then connect the horn, and as you mentioned the servo case can move slightly, which it did for me as well, so I dialed out some servo throw to minimize the case movement when turning left and right.
however, make sure that you still get full steering lock, but only up to that point, dont make the servo turn more than full steering lock - which you can see when the steering blocks on each side hit flush.
hope that helps.
back off the screws a quarter or half turn and check the steering with the horn disconnected. the steering should be "extremely" easy and fast & free to turn without the horn attached on the servo.
once thats free, then connect the horn, and as you mentioned the servo case can move slightly, which it did for me as well, so I dialed out some servo throw to minimize the case movement when turning left and right.
however, make sure that you still get full steering lock, but only up to that point, dont make the servo turn more than full steering lock - which you can see when the steering blocks on each side hit flush.
hope that helps.
#2302
Tech Initiate
check any binding with the steering plate mounted to the bellcrank arms. from what i have read in previous posts, its easy to crank the screws of the plate (option 3 is stock with the kit) too much which can cause it to bind when turning left and right.
back off the screws a quarter or half turn and check the steering with the horn disconnected. the steering should be "extremely" easy and fast & free to turn without the horn attached on the servo.
once thats free, then connect the horn, and as you mentioned the servo case can move slightly, which it did for me as well, so I dialed out some servo throw to minimize the case movement when turning left and right.
however, make sure that you still get full steering lock, but only up to that point, dont make the servo turn more than full steering lock - which you can see when the steering blocks on each side hit flush.
hope that helps.
back off the screws a quarter or half turn and check the steering with the horn disconnected. the steering should be "extremely" easy and fast & free to turn without the horn attached on the servo.
once thats free, then connect the horn, and as you mentioned the servo case can move slightly, which it did for me as well, so I dialed out some servo throw to minimize the case movement when turning left and right.
however, make sure that you still get full steering lock, but only up to that point, dont make the servo turn more than full steering lock - which you can see when the steering blocks on each side hit flush.
hope that helps.
These are the screws i loosened
And the ones underneath the car which correspond with the top two red circles, didnt make a difference. Wrong ones?
#2303
hmm.. should only be the 2 screws on the steering plate, not the steering posts (either top or bottom).
I would remove the steering links from the steering plate. check that movement. the steering plate and posts should move back and forth with ease.. like flopping in the wind.
it that is not the case, then there is something binding with the steering plate or posts. start with the steering plate first, remove that and check for binding.
if the steering plate/posts DO move freely after removing the links, then its something with the hubs on either end.
just starting checking things piece by piece. this is one reason, why I checked and rechecked every 2 pieces of anything I put together on the car.
good luck.
I would remove the steering links from the steering plate. check that movement. the steering plate and posts should move back and forth with ease.. like flopping in the wind.
it that is not the case, then there is something binding with the steering plate or posts. start with the steering plate first, remove that and check for binding.
if the steering plate/posts DO move freely after removing the links, then its something with the hubs on either end.
just starting checking things piece by piece. this is one reason, why I checked and rechecked every 2 pieces of anything I put together on the car.
good luck.
#2304
Tech Initiate
Thanks mate I tracked it down to the hubs, there were 2 plastic shims like in the manual but it was binding, once I removed one it made the steering nice and snappy, it also bends the plastic servo holder very little too now.
Only problem is the centering on the servo, don't know if it because of slop in a steering or servo horn or a servo problem =\
Only problem is the centering on the servo, don't know if it because of slop in a steering or servo horn or a servo problem =\
#2305
check your radio settings, then try a different servo. those Ace servo's from Thunder Tiger are pretty hefty, that version at 200oz of torque and .11 sec transit time is no slouch. I'm sure Thunder Tiger would service it for you it needed.
I wish I had one of those.. their nice!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...tal-servo.html
http://www.ttamerica.com/servos/acem8127.html
but then again, Thunder Tiger is a great product.. Im almost done building my second S3, will have pics coming soon, but not in this thread... wish they would come out with another race bred 1/8 scale, something of quality like the Ssssserpent!
AND, I just got my Thunder Tiger .21 pro engine back today from RBMods.net, for some porting work. Rick is an amazing engine modder, and has been modding engines for years, but now mostly concentrates on drag motors!!! http://www.rbmods.net/home.php
_
I wish I had one of those.. their nice!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...tal-servo.html
http://www.ttamerica.com/servos/acem8127.html
but then again, Thunder Tiger is a great product.. Im almost done building my second S3, will have pics coming soon, but not in this thread... wish they would come out with another race bred 1/8 scale, something of quality like the Ssssserpent!
AND, I just got my Thunder Tiger .21 pro engine back today from RBMods.net, for some porting work. Rick is an amazing engine modder, and has been modding engines for years, but now mostly concentrates on drag motors!!! http://www.rbmods.net/home.php
_
#2306
just curious, but what were the plastic shims that you removed? Were they installed in the kingpins for the axle?
I would check that again and see if you can get things moving freely WITH that shim in place. maybe even use some fine grit sand paper on them before they go in.
I would check that again and see if you can get things moving freely WITH that shim in place. maybe even use some fine grit sand paper on them before they go in.
#2307
Tech Initiate
just curious, but what were the plastic shims that you removed? Were they installed in the kingpins for the axle?
I would check that again and see if you can get things moving freely WITH that shim in place. maybe even use some fine grit sand paper on them before they go in.
I would check that again and see if you can get things moving freely WITH that shim in place. maybe even use some fine grit sand paper on them before they go in.
I might look for some thin washers or something. There is less than 1mm gap so still very close.
Last edited by jasjeet; 06-09-2012 at 04:58 AM.
#2308
#2309
Interesting, I dont recall having an issue with those binding.. but I did lightly sand each side of each shim.