Hi can anybody tell me if the associated 8.2 F/R shock springs will fit on this cars shocks?

Thanks

Brett

Ok so my frustration level right now is well, INSANE!

Just spent 3 hours trying to set rebound on my shocks, can't do it. simply can't.

2.0 shocks, Blue CSI pistons, Webbed Bladders. no matter what i do, i cannot get less than 80% rebound.

What am i missing? I fill the shock, compress to where i want the rebound, then screw the cap on, holding a 45 degree angle so it can bleed. every single time i still get full rebound, even when i hold the shock fully compressed when bleeding.

there HAS to be a simple way to do this, why the HELL don't 1/8th scale shocks have bleeder screws?

seriously what am i missing? before i trade these in for Losi shocks with vented caps and foam compensator!

Put the bladder in the cap first. Fill the shock up 90%. Screw the shock cap on with the bleader hole facing up untill the bladder starts to press into the oil. When the oil is comming out of the bleader hole and the shock cap and bladder is semi seated, compress the shock expelling oil all the way up (fully compresses). WIth the shock compressed and thebleader hole facein upwards, tighten the shock cap all the way while maintaining full compression and hole facing up to expell excess oil and air. Done.

That is exactly what i have been doing.... i know it's impossible to get all of the rebound out as the piston hits the bladder at full compression. I am just trying to get 50% front and about 25% rear, just not having any luck in doing so.

problem is the 2-3 turns still after it stops bleeding that the shock cap screws on till it is tight. That seems to be where i am gaining the extra rebound from, and don't see how i can avoid it.

Thanks for the input, i would love to hear from some others before i try again monday night to get this correct.

rebound is such an important part of shock tuning, that i really want to be able to get the expected rebound consistently. this is hurting me at the track and is the main reason i want to get it right, as i am hesitant to make oil/piston changes at the track due to issues i have had getting them consistent. This bugs me as i know that after tires, shocks are where the biggest gains can be made on car handling.

thanks

(and yes after walking away from it for a bit i am much calmer now )

I was able to run mine Saturday and the car was driving awesome but me on the other hand not so much. I need to get a set of shock boots for it and not sure if you order the truggy or the buggy ones since the 2.0 has the truggy rear shocks

The buggy ones will be fine. I have buggy fronts on the rears and they almost go all the way to the bottom. Was out of rears so put these on temporarily.

When I was buying the csi pistons they pointed out that setting rebound was tough with the webbed bladders. Its a compromise!

But the normal bladders don't seem to hold a consistent rebound Unless someone knows of a bladder that stays consistent and easier to build than the webbed bladders

Ran my 2.0 for the first time, first ebuggy ever and qaulified 4th out of 18 or so. Finished the Amain 5th with one less tire foam lol. Car ran awesome all day even on 3.5 tires.

You can adjust rebound by not over tightening the shock cap. Don't leave loss but you don't have too make it super tight. You should hold the shock in a vertical position then close cap then bleed. Keep bleeding until you get the desired rebound, I'm bleeding more then twice.

To be honest I pay more attention on matching rebound % (that they're both same rebound and speed) than trying to meke them as dead as possible.

That is what im after also, but on certain tracks, running less rebound makes for a less progressively stiff shock under compression and makes a huge difference in jumping and bump handling. it's also easier to compare setup changes when you have the same amount of rebound from build to build.

You can't really evaluate a 5wt oil change effectively if you don't have the same amount of rebound as what you had before the change same with a piston change

I finally think i have it down. did it a couple times tonight and i could get repeatable results. Takes a bit of work though, but i can set my rebound and get close to the expected rate every time. it really has more to do with getting the correct and equal amount of oil in each shock before you bleed them, so they can bleed enough to be where i want them to.

How? Less oil and you were able to get more rebound? About 90% ?

Ouch my e buggy it's still sitting on the box but still have 5 bodies to paint grrrr

what i come up with is basically filling the shock about 1/2, working the air out, then filling the shock all the way with it still partially compressed(or near fully to get about 25% rebound), then bleeding them out like normal. (less oil = less rebound)

My baseline is 50% rebound on my front shocks and about 25% on the rear. smoother high bite indoor tracks i run more rebound, and less for outdoor slick tracks.

Remember the more rebound you have built into your shocks, the stiffer they get as they compress... this allows you to use rebound as a progressive type tuning aid. I never run less than 25% in 1/8th scale as it makes the car to bouncy. Think of it as a way to tune your rebound rate, and get your tires back in contact with the surface sooner.

25%-75% rebound is about my limits for tuning with it, more or less usually makes the car act funny. Typically the more rebound, the better you car jumps and lands, especially on bigger jumps. but sometimes less rebound can gain you some traction when you need it, and help flatten your car out on jumps and rough sections of the track without really making a bigger compromise elsewhere in your setup.

Just something for you to consider when making shock changes. Sometimes just taking out or adding a little rebound into my shocks has made the car better on some tracks. but building the shocks with uneven rebound, or different rebound rates when making changes can make a good change feel bad 6hole pistons, 40wt oil with 100% rebound feels VERY different on the track to me as 6 hole pistons, 40wt oil and 25% rebound.

Note: this does not apply to 1/10th cars in my experience, rebound in my 2w buggy makes it handle inconsistently. They do develop a little bit of rebound naturally though as the shocks suck in air.