Monty, what are you thoughts on a P5 piston and sleeve in an FMS case w/ fms crankshaft?

u gotta know how to shim properly but




It runs AWESOME , i have built a few

With a lil porting readjustment it really works

what does it typically need shim-wise? more or less than stock p5?

the plunge depth of the fms button is wayyyyy deeper , 28002 is the button you should use

i dont recall exactlt what the shimming was but it was like 1.6mm worth to obtain proper deck heighth

delete

I am having same issue after switching from Losi Re10 to Nova 9901 with a BTTa and the tune seemed great and ran fastest laps ever. ?????? Edit: I believe I got it figured out and this motor has more top end with the 9901 than I expected because I had same issue with flaming out after WOT and braking but veteran racer that I know told me that the hsn was way to rich 3-6hrs and lsn was to lean a little 1-2hrs. The lsn was lean so it sounded good until right at the end of straight when the hsn finally was in control of flow and it loaded up also made it hard to start(flooded). Anyway I leaned the top about 4hrs. and richen bottom just a little then made some runs and tried to get it to reproduce the issue but it ran 2 tanks back to back with no problems and screams down the straight at 240-250f. Happy I am!

bit tricky trying to get a tune on my toro with a good idle I have found that when I start up it idles high and about mid race the idle drops right off and it flames out due to a low idle engine does seem a bit lean and strong down low and slightly rich up top peaking at about 3/4 length of the straight with a nova 6 plug 14t bell and 7mm insert. any suggestion to get a nice consistant idle? cheers

I never could get the toro to run right. I ended up lowering the head a little by removing a thin shim or two and setting the idle a bit high, still flamed out at the worst time, like during a main etc... Just don't run it rich anywhere.

I'm sticking to 4-5 ports.

1.6mm with the 28002 or the FMS button? what about the p5xlt button 28028?

Yeah another guy at our track gave up on his toro yesterday after
About the fifth flameout, the toros tuning window seems narrow?
But will keep tryingCheers

my toro seems to have a somewhat narrow window, however the biggest thing i noticed is it takes a long time to get heat in it if you're not using an engine heater. I usually have mine fired and on the track 3 minutes before the start of a qualifier, i get topped off with about 30-60sec to go and it still takes another 2mins into the race before i feel it come in. It always comes off around 235

I know it not in the league with the engines you guys are running, but any comments on tune and pipe with the lil NB21 econo engine they put out? running it in a truggy at about 800 ft above sea level (Kansas City area)

have a 086 pipe,a P-3 , a Go 2072 and a mystery pipe Thats been in my box for awhile,LMAO Was away from nitro for about 3 years. Put a few drops of after run oil in it the day before and this little bugger took about 10seconds to start.....has about a gallon of break in through it is all.

the N21 is not a real strong engine, especially in a truggy. It lacks bottom end for lugging a truggy around, but if you're on a real low bite surface without short run ups to jumps, you will do ok. Try a pipe that yields more torque to help with that. Also you'd prob hafta run heavier clutch springs and/or run a smaller clutchbell/larger spur to help the feel of it. I ran one in my RC8T one time during a main when i blew up my engine in a qualifier, but i didnt get any time to try different things to make it run/feel better. My brother ran a Losi RE10 on his N21 and felt it had the most power with that pipe than the others he tried(053, 2035, 9901)

28002 and 28028 are same plunge depth and will use standard shimming , the fms button (dont recall the number) will have to be shimmed quite a bit to run properly