OK that's correct

What about droop, to much weight transfer to the rear, wouldn't this cause excessive tire wear for the rear? Right now i am running 1 up front and 4 in the rear

doesnt seem to excessive try 1-3

Guys, quick question! I need to know what size hinge pins are used for The top front wishbones. Not interested in the part no. Just doing a mod to another car and hoping these will fit!

Cheers

I was wondering if any of you run or have ran Tamiya shocks on your NT1?

Never had a problem with the XRAY shocks to even try different brand

Are you running solid axle or gear diff at front? becouse the solid will couse the rear tires to wear faster.

Try using the KM springs and oil in the xray shocks. More weight transfer to the rear will reduce tirewear in the rear(but has other disadvantage`s). Soft springs will get more grip and reduce tirewear. The KM have softer springs standard i think. And a longer upper link rear reduces cambergain wich can also help with tirewear.

Hope this will help you.

Sorry guys, ignore this one I was having trouble posting and this has shown up twice

Guyz who is using different centax than stock?
Which one and what is your set up?

I'm currently putting together my 1st RC car and I am up to building the shocks. Now the track I intend to race on is classed as low traction.

I am trying to decide whether to use the adjustable or non adjustable pistons and wanted to find out from experienced racers which they found to be better and why.

thanks,
Mick

When you are new with the shock aspect maybe its better to try the adjustable pistons. I use mostly the same setup with my shocks. I have 2 sets with non adjustable pistons so i can change the shocks and know what way to go. But i seem to stick with the same every time. Also with the adjustable i can`t tell what i am setting the pistons at. With the non adjustable`s i was able to learn about oil change and its effect on road handling. With low traction you might want to go soft on the springs and with that its better to go light with the oil also. It depends on the track lay out. Thight corners use light oil, and flowing corners go thicker.

Just try both and see what suits you the best. (NT1 best choice available)

Thanks for the reply.

I'm trying to set the clutch gap but can only get 0.5 the manual says 0.6-0.7 is correct gap. I have also tried filing down the collet but still no go.

Does it matter that I can't get to 0.6?

Also, stupid newb question, on my lower front suspension arm there is what looks to be a plastic shim attached to it (see pic). I can't find any reference to it in the manual. Does this need to be placed on the pivot pin to limit the play of the front suspension arm?



Thanks

This shim is to let you have short wheel base or long wheelbase. It goes on the front lower arm on the front or back. you did notice al lot of play?? without it. Now you know.

I did notice the play and that's what prompted me to ask. Thanks for the answer.