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Old 02-09-2012, 10:02 AM   #6241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esckalayd View Post
I have the 25T pulley on the side.
OK that's correct
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:04 AM   #6242
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What about droop, to much weight transfer to the rear, wouldn't this cause excessive tire wear for the rear? Right now i am running 1 up front and 4 in the rear
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:38 AM   #6243
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What about droop, to much weight transfer to the rear, wouldn't this cause excessive tire wear for the rear? Right now i am running 1 up front and 4 in the rear
doesnt seem to excessive try 1-3
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:49 PM   #6244
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Guys, quick question! I need to know what size hinge pins are used for The top front wishbones. Not interested in the part no. Just doing a mod to another car and hoping these will fit!

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Old 02-14-2012, 02:46 PM   #6245
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Default Shocks

I was wondering if any of you run or have ran Tamiya shocks on your NT1?
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:49 PM   #6246
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I was wondering if any of you run or have ran Tamiya shocks on your NT1?
Never had a problem with the XRAY shocks to even try different brand
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:16 PM   #6247
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Originally Posted by esckalayd View Post
What about droop, to much weight transfer to the rear, wouldn't this cause excessive tire wear for the rear? Right now i am running 1 up front and 4 in the rear
Are you running solid axle or gear diff at front? becouse the solid will couse the rear tires to wear faster.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:20 AM   #6248
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I have been scratching my head at this one. What are some reasons that i would be tearing through rear tires. Meaning loosing about 2mm per 5 min qualifier. I am geared 16/60 23/55 right now and my setup is about 1-2 degree rear toe and 2-3 degree camber. I am getting the right conical wear from the rear setup but i am tearing through rear tires. Is there something else i should look at or is this just normal for xray. My friend has the new KM and same track, same qualifying time, with almost the same gear ratios, he only gets about 1mm wear. Forgot to mention, normal shores depending on traction i run a 35F/37R or 37F/40R. Any ideas?
Try using the KM springs and oil in the xray shocks. More weight transfer to the rear will reduce tirewear in the rear(but has other disadvantage`s). Soft springs will get more grip and reduce tirewear. The KM have softer springs standard i think. And a longer upper link rear reduces cambergain wich can also help with tirewear.

Hope this will help you.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:12 AM   #6249
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Default Beginner advice on new NT1

Sorry guys, ignore this one I was having trouble posting and this has shown up twice

Last edited by Sparwood; 02-24-2012 at 08:26 AM.
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:18 PM   #6250
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Guyz who is using different centax than stock?
Which one and what is your set up?
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:16 PM   #6251
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Default adjustable or non adjustable pistons in shocks

I'm currently putting together my 1st RC car and I am up to building the shocks. Now the track I intend to race on is classed as low traction.

I am trying to decide whether to use the adjustable or non adjustable pistons and wanted to find out from experienced racers which they found to be better and why.

thanks,
Mick
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:30 AM   #6252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickzo View Post
I'm currently putting together my 1st RC car and I am up to building the shocks. Now the track I intend to race on is classed as low traction.

I am trying to decide whether to use the adjustable or non adjustable pistons and wanted to find out from experienced racers which they found to be better and why.

thanks,
Mick
When you are new with the shock aspect maybe its better to try the adjustable pistons. I use mostly the same setup with my shocks. I have 2 sets with non adjustable pistons so i can change the shocks and know what way to go. But i seem to stick with the same every time. Also with the adjustable i can`t tell what i am setting the pistons at. With the non adjustable`s i was able to learn about oil change and its effect on road handling. With low traction you might want to go soft on the springs and with that its better to go light with the oil also. It depends on the track lay out. Thight corners use light oil, and flowing corners go thicker.

Just try both and see what suits you the best. (NT1 best choice available)
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:51 PM   #6253
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Thanks for the reply.

I'm trying to set the clutch gap but can only get 0.5 the manual says 0.6-0.7 is correct gap. I have also tried filing down the collet but still no go.

Does it matter that I can't get to 0.6?

Also, stupid newb question, on my lower front suspension arm there is what looks to be a plastic shim attached to it (see pic). I can't find any reference to it in the manual. Does this need to be placed on the pivot pin to limit the play of the front suspension arm?



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Last edited by Mickzo; 03-25-2012 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:19 PM   #6254
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This shim is to let you have short wheel base or long wheelbase. It goes on the front lower arm on the front or back. you did notice al lot of play?? without it. Now you know.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:43 AM   #6255
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Originally Posted by djiewie View Post
This shim is to let you have short wheel base or long wheelbase. It goes on the front lower arm on the front or back. you did notice al lot of play?? without it. Now you know.
I did notice the play and that's what prompted me to ask. Thanks for the answer.

Last edited by Mickzo; 03-29-2012 at 03:53 PM.
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