SC10 4x4 Thread
It takes away the trucks tendency to snap roll into corners. It actually allows your truck TO roll, without catching an edge and snapping. I'd be willing to bet you also now have the 3-3 rear pivot block on. This allows the truck to gain back some of the rotation lost to the stability the washers under the ballstuds gave you.
To anyone building one of these. START with 3-4mm of spacers under the inner ballstuds. All the way around. This raises the roll center and gives you a fighting chance of stumbling on a base setup. You may find you like less, but it's a starting point.
To anyone building one of these. START with 3-4mm of spacers under the inner ballstuds. All the way around. This raises the roll center and gives you a fighting chance of stumbling on a base setup. You may find you like less, but it's a starting point.
so you're suggesting washers on the rear too huh?
I have to vent I just bought a receiver off a member here and it doesn't work , doesn't even power up. Am I screwed or can I dispute this somehow. It pisses me off that you can't trust a seller here.
Long answer - The spring itself doesn't mean jack, it's attached to a control arm and a shock tower, could have multiple positions, and you need to calculate the wheel rate and then calculate the spring frequency to have it mean anything. Yellow fronts have a stated rate of 4.8 Yellow rears are 3.1. AE's grading is consistent with each other, but if you do something like go to TLR springs, your on your own. I'm sidetracking myself, but I want to make clear there's nothing wrong with AE springs or their rating. The issue is the spring selection for this truck.
What is wrong is putting a spring that is 33% softer in the rear that has 55% of the weight on it without some way wacky motion ratios (that we don't have) to correct for it. If you want the spring frequencies equal, you'll need more wheel rate on the heavier end. This is why when Cameron is having success going from yellow rears to green fronts and then white fronts - he is improving the spring mismatch situation.
I have run yellow front springs on all four corners the past two race weekends. I would go stiffer in the rear but yellows the stiffest I could find. If you try fronts in the rear, you need to add another 2mm to the shock eyelet either in one of those clip on travel limiters or some other way.
Before anybody says "just cut the springs" save your breath. I've already thought of that, and I've done it before - it's a huge pain in the butt to rewind and regrind the pigtails. I'm thinking of another option.
Which in turn will jump better and rotate easier. Also is there any way to find or "measure" your center of gravity?
Probably the dumbest question asked in awhile
It takes away the trucks tendency to snap roll into corners. It actually allows your truck TO roll, without catching an edge and snapping. I'd be willing to bet you also now have the 3-3 rear pivot block on. This allows the truck to gain back some of the rotation lost to the stability the washers under the ballstuds gave you.
To anyone building one of these. START with 3-4mm of spacers under the inner ballstuds. All the way around. This raises the roll center and gives you a fighting chance of stumbling on a base setup. You may find you like less, but it's a starting point.
To anyone building one of these. START with 3-4mm of spacers under the inner ballstuds. All the way around. This raises the roll center and gives you a fighting chance of stumbling on a base setup. You may find you like less, but it's a starting point.
Adding shims to the inner ballstuds lowers roll center not raise, just dont want to start confusion!
hey mantis
what does moving the camber link to the outside do? add stability?
I have my truck working with a stick pack now and driving it around the house scaring my cat lol.
can you tell me what size screws those are that secure the battery tray?
what does moving the camber link to the outside do? add stability?
I have my truck working with a stick pack now and driving it around the house scaring my cat lol.
can you tell me what size screws those are that secure the battery tray?
Well I thru a stickpack (even though its setup for saddles) in my truck and took it for a blast up n down the street.
HOLY FOOKIN SHEET IS IT FAST!
I'm pretty sure my truck would clear a few houses if there was a small ramp.
I'm thinking after Marcus drove my truck he said DAYUM I'm getting a 4600
I cannot wait to get my saddles!
HOLY FOOKIN SHEET IS IT FAST!
I'm pretty sure my truck would clear a few houses if there was a small ramp.

I'm thinking after Marcus drove my truck he said DAYUM I'm getting a 4600
I cannot wait to get my saddles!
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 51
Trying to think of the advantages of the belt drive on this truck vs the shaft drive on other trucks. Obviously the durability is not even a question. With on throttle and a softer suspension and the natural forward movement of the belt maybe kinda suck the chassis to the ground improving grip? Vs the torsional twist of the shaft driven trucks. Gotta think AE's belt would be more responsive and the advantage.
Anyways, just upgraded to saddle packs. Can't wait to get it to the track
Anyways, just upgraded to saddle packs. Can't wait to get it to the track
Craig is a math genius for sure. I was a little surprised when I posted my set up for the last big race at PRCR that know one asked WTH with the rear springs.
I changed the 2 stage pistons and think they will compliment the higher spring rates now. Getting some track time this weekend to get ready for the PRCR Intvational next weekend. Ryan Cavaliere will be there. Hopefully he wont bring his truck
I changed the 2 stage pistons and think they will compliment the higher spring rates now. Getting some track time this weekend to get ready for the PRCR Intvational next weekend. Ryan Cavaliere will be there. Hopefully he wont bring his truck
are your tires 100% balanced? I could be wrong, but when you end up with 2 tires facing one direction and 2 tires facing the other, the vibration that is "normal" is amplified because you get 2 different vibrations in 2 different directions. Every vehicle I have does this, from my rally car, to my TC5, to my eMaxx....the bigger the tires, the more noticable the effect.



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