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Old 02-24-2012 | 05:44 PM
  #18151  
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Originally Posted by Farmer_John
It takes away the trucks tendency to snap roll into corners. It actually allows your truck TO roll, without catching an edge and snapping. I'd be willing to bet you also now have the 3-3 rear pivot block on. This allows the truck to gain back some of the rotation lost to the stability the washers under the ballstuds gave you.

To anyone building one of these. START with 3-4mm of spacers under the inner ballstuds. All the way around. This raises the roll center and gives you a fighting chance of stumbling on a base setup. You may find you like less, but it's a starting point.
I'm not sure what kind of spacer he used I figured he'd used washers.

so you're suggesting washers on the rear too huh?




I have to vent I just bought a receiver off a member here and it doesn't work , doesn't even power up. Am I screwed or can I dispute this somehow. It pisses me off that you can't trust a seller here.
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Old 02-24-2012 | 05:52 PM
  #18152  
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Originally Posted by Shins
Question. Or a few. Setting up the truck with even weight distribution will allow me to run same colored springs?
Short answer - yes, but it's not that easy. First you'll have to add something like a pound of ballast either on or near the front. And then you'd have the privilege of running four of the same springs, not the same color springs, if....

Long answer - The spring itself doesn't mean jack, it's attached to a control arm and a shock tower, could have multiple positions, and you need to calculate the wheel rate and then calculate the spring frequency to have it mean anything. Yellow fronts have a stated rate of 4.8 Yellow rears are 3.1. AE's grading is consistent with each other, but if you do something like go to TLR springs, your on your own. I'm sidetracking myself, but I want to make clear there's nothing wrong with AE springs or their rating. The issue is the spring selection for this truck.

What is wrong is putting a spring that is 33% softer in the rear that has 55% of the weight on it without some way wacky motion ratios (that we don't have) to correct for it. If you want the spring frequencies equal, you'll need more wheel rate on the heavier end. This is why when Cameron is having success going from yellow rears to green fronts and then white fronts - he is improving the spring mismatch situation.

I have run yellow front springs on all four corners the past two race weekends. I would go stiffer in the rear but yellows the stiffest I could find. If you try fronts in the rear, you need to add another 2mm to the shock eyelet either in one of those clip on travel limiters or some other way.

Before anybody says "just cut the springs" save your breath. I've already thought of that, and I've done it before - it's a huge pain in the butt to rewind and regrind the pigtails. I'm thinking of another option.

Which in turn will jump better and rotate easier. Also is there any way to find or "measure" your center of gravity?
I'm sure you can, but even if you could, it wouldn't be terribly useful. The chassis scales are a godsend, IMO.

Probably the dumbest question asked in awhile
Not at all.
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Old 02-24-2012 | 05:55 PM
  #18153  
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Originally Posted by Farmer_John
It takes away the trucks tendency to snap roll into corners. It actually allows your truck TO roll, without catching an edge and snapping. I'd be willing to bet you also now have the 3-3 rear pivot block on. This allows the truck to gain back some of the rotation lost to the stability the washers under the ballstuds gave you.

To anyone building one of these. START with 3-4mm of spacers under the inner ballstuds. All the way around. This raises the roll center and gives you a fighting chance of stumbling on a base setup. You may find you like less, but it's a starting point.


Adding shims to the inner ballstuds lowers roll center not raise, just dont want to start confusion!
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Old 02-24-2012 | 06:03 PM
  #18154  
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hey mantis

what does moving the camber link to the outside do? add stability?

I have my truck working with a stick pack now and driving it around the house scaring my cat lol.

can you tell me what size screws those are that secure the battery tray?
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Old 02-24-2012 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
Adding shims to the inner ballstuds lowers roll center not raise, just dont want to start confusion!
That's what I get whenever I try to get all technical and stuff...
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Old 02-24-2012 | 06:05 PM
  #18156  
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So assuming the stiffest possible setup on the rear (Yellow fronts, correct mounting holes, etc.) would that fix the problem. Or would it be better to go to another brand of springs?
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Old 02-24-2012 | 06:09 PM
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Thanks on that Craig. Very cool info.
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Old 02-24-2012 | 06:19 PM
  #18158  
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Well I thru a stickpack (even though its setup for saddles) in my truck and took it for a blast up n down the street.

HOLY FOOKIN SHEET IS IT FAST!

I'm pretty sure my truck would clear a few houses if there was a small ramp.

I'm thinking after Marcus drove my truck he said DAYUM I'm getting a 4600

I cannot wait to get my saddles!
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Old 02-24-2012 | 06:29 PM
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Trying to think of the advantages of the belt drive on this truck vs the shaft drive on other trucks. Obviously the durability is not even a question. With on throttle and a softer suspension and the natural forward movement of the belt maybe kinda suck the chassis to the ground improving grip? Vs the torsional twist of the shaft driven trucks. Gotta think AE's belt would be more responsive and the advantage.

Anyways, just upgraded to saddle packs. Can't wait to get it to the track
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Old 02-24-2012 | 06:53 PM
  #18160  
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the advantage is the acceleration, it'll rip out of corners.
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Old 02-24-2012 | 06:58 PM
  #18161  
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Originally Posted by Shins
Thanks on that Craig. Very cool info.
Craig is a math genius for sure. I was a little surprised when I posted my set up for the last big race at PRCR that know one asked WTH with the rear springs.

I changed the 2 stage pistons and think they will compliment the higher spring rates now. Getting some track time this weekend to get ready for the PRCR Intvational next weekend. Ryan Cavaliere will be there. Hopefully he wont bring his truck
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Old 02-24-2012 | 07:06 PM
  #18162  
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dude ask him lots of questions and get pics and look at his truck closely!!
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Old 02-24-2012 | 07:09 PM
  #18163  
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Has anyone notice a bad vibration when the truck is held in the air or on a stand and you turn the front wheels to one side while accelerating?
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Old 02-24-2012 | 07:16 PM
  #18164  
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Originally Posted by coconut
Has anyone notice a bad vibration when the truck is held in the air or on a stand and you turn the front wheels to one side while accelerating?
are your tires 100% balanced? I could be wrong, but when you end up with 2 tires facing one direction and 2 tires facing the other, the vibration that is "normal" is amplified because you get 2 different vibrations in 2 different directions. Every vehicle I have does this, from my rally car, to my TC5, to my eMaxx....the bigger the tires, the more noticable the effect.
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Old 02-24-2012 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Arakon
ASC6469. It's shown in the FT manual, but not in the normal kit.
Edit: In the latest manual for the normal kit, it's also shown.
Cool thanks...
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