Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash

Thread the 5.5 nut onto the Shaft where the shock would go, and use it as a counter to you threading the 7mm Nut to tighten down the shock post. Easy. (of course plastic isn't going to hold up to you twisting a hex against it.) That plastic is only supposed to hold the shaft from spinning when removing the shock, Not the Shock post installation itself.

And can you rephrase your question? What tools? You mean send me your diff for me to cut and send bearings with? or what?

Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.

Yes, could someone send a diff and bearings and have you do it for them.

Originally Posted by dougwalter911

ive only ran my sc10 4x4 about 4 race days now 3 races each day. and my rear diff is bone dry. can that cause it to make a grinding slipping sound and have me lose power when i get on the throttle. all the gears look ok but just to be safe im buying all new front and rear diff gears and housing.

Originally Posted by dougwalter911

ive only ran my sc10 4x4 about 4 race days now 3 races each day. and my rear diff is bone dry. can that cause it to make a grinding slipping sound and have me lose power when i get on the throttle. all the gears look ok but just to be safe im buying all new front and rear diff gears and housing.

Originally Posted by jamr1130

Hey symmetricon. I was trolling the for sale section looking for any deals and saw your ad. Giving up on this truck?

Originally Posted by darryl80

what pitch size pinions does the sc10 spur gear use?

Originally Posted by Mizchief

Last time I build my front diff, I put very small bead of silicone calk around the seal top and bottom and that stopped the leaking.

Getting the diff back apart may be difficult, I haven't had to yet, but I figure a small flathead screwdriver should get the job done.