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Old 06-04-2011 | 10:38 AM
  #2791  
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when you temp the motor temp your slipper as well. just remember with cover and without cover will change temps drastically.
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Old 06-04-2011 | 11:32 AM
  #2792  
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Originally Posted by kamahaobuilt13
what u think about it? also did you try a 11t pin? is it night nd day difference
this combo is AWSOME!!! I also tried the 540 can 5.5 LRP motor and with it geared 17/93 it is incredibly fast but got way to hot. thats why I went with the 550. Iam not sorry i did though.
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Old 06-04-2011 | 01:12 PM
  #2793  
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Getting mine all dialed in the yard for a race soon, RX8 and Tekin SC4X 5.5 seems to work very well, cant wait to hit a track
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Old 06-04-2011 | 02:55 PM
  #2794  
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Originally Posted by TocSin
I've been running 48p with a Castle 1410 with no issues. Nice and quiet too. Ran it that way to take 5th in 4x4 SC at the Hank Perry 240. Never even had to take the gear cover off that weekend. I have the brakes on the RX8 turned down to around 50 though, and I'm usually pretty smooth with the throttle. That 4 pole will bring it right up on its nose with full brakes, which is hard on the belt, pulleys, spur...body... Spent a little time getting the mesh perfect though with full tooth engagement.

How narrow are your pinions? The ones I'm running are nearly identical width the the spur. The super skinny RR ones put a lot of torque on a small tooth face on the spur.
my pinions are def narrower than the spur. what kind did you get? I wanted to race today but financially couldn't afford to. Hoping to run it in a week or two. I believe it might be a mesh problem. This 1410 does indeed accelerate hard and brake just as hard, so it might be a combo of things.
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Old 06-04-2011 | 04:31 PM
  #2795  
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
The rear hub bearings are definitely fried, so those need replaced without question, but this is perplexing.
i had a rear bearing go out on me also. I'm going to get some avid bearings for mine.

Finished 3rd my first time out with it. Much more steering then my hyper.

setup:
diffs 30K front/ 5K rear
shocks 35f/30r
clicker locked
castle 1410/mmp esc
14t/32p
motor was super smooth, easy to control
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Old 06-04-2011 | 06:39 PM
  #2796  
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Dear AE,
Why didn't you include the swaybars in the kit? This truck is SO much better with swaybars front and rear.

yours truly,
Matt


Seriously though, I made some 2mm swaybars front and rear and went almost a lap faster this weekend compared to last weekend without swaybars. It was more consistant going into corners and coming out, it just felt more planted all over. My fast lap in the main was a 22.1, average of top 5 was 22.2, and average of top 10 was 22.3.

Last weekend I struggled to go 16 laps, this weekend I was on a 17 lap pace until I crashed with two laps to goin one of my qualifiers
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Old 06-04-2011 | 07:29 PM
  #2797  
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Hindsight being 20/20, ThunderbirdJunkie DOES remember the gear/belt cover being warm to the touch after the first heat.
Originally Posted by mdmaxx
i had a rear bearing go out on me also. I'm going to get some avid bearings for mine.

Finished 3rd my first time out with it. Much more steering then my hyper.

setup:
diffs 30K front/ 5K rear
shocks 35f/30r
clicker locked
castle 1410/mmp esc
14t/32p
motor was super smooth, easy to control
Oh, that's a good call...ThunderbirdJunkie forgot to mention the extreme positive in contrast with the minor negatives!

The truck drove pretty OK...last night was the first race. There were some quick guys out there! Finished 3rd out of 9 in the main (Not sure, but ThunderbirdJunkie is fairly certain there were no SCTEs in front of him)
Had the clicker loose, 32.5wt in all 4 corners, kit pistons, stock springs, pink Megagrids all around, and 5k in both diffs, geared 15/62 with the 1410 and MM (the OG one, not the Pro)

This is ThunderbirdJunkie's first time racing something 4wd EVER. He had no idea what to expect.
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Old 06-04-2011 | 08:37 PM
  #2798  
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Not sure, but ThunderbirdJunkie is fairly certain there were no SCTEs in front of him)
If you are talking about CCRCR...there was one SCTE in front of you (black one). My SC10 4x4 felt pretty good all night and took TQ, but would do some funky things when I tried to push it hard. Need some work on the shocks I think. Is anyone replacing the kit shocks with something better?
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Old 06-04-2011 | 08:47 PM
  #2799  
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Hey all,

Just picked up my SC10 4x4 and have started putting it together. I've built the front and rear gearboxes, paying attention to the notes on the first page of the thread regarding not tightening the gearbox bolts too much but I still have a little bit of binding. It almost feels like it's in the gears as it is there even with the screws backed WAY out. Anybody else experience this? Is it a matter of simply running a few packs through the truck to get it to "bed in" or should I be looking for anything else?

Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 06-04-2011 | 08:52 PM
  #2800  
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Originally Posted by bseckel
this combo is AWSOME!!! I also tried the 540 can 5.5 LRP motor and with it geared 17/93 it is incredibly fast but got way to hot. thats why I went with the 550. Iam not sorry i did though.
so whats your final gearing for the 550 can?
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Old 06-04-2011 | 08:57 PM
  #2801  
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Originally Posted by RodneyB
If you are talking about CCRCR...there was one SCTE in front of you (black one). My SC10 4x4 felt pretty good all night and took TQ, but would do some funky things when I tried to push it hard. Need some work on the shocks I think. Is anyone replacing the kit shocks with something better?
Rodney, all that really matters is that Adam was behind the ugliest green and white truck on the track Totally forgot about the black SCTE.

The truck does act goofy when pushed hard, but again, not sure what to expect being the first 4 wheeler driven on a track. It definitely felt better at EN hobbies than it did at CCRCR with the heavy shock fluid compared to what everybody else is running.

Thanks for comin' down, BTW It was good to see what a good driver can do with the SC10 4 wheeler, since ThunderbirdJunkie will never be that guy
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Old 06-04-2011 | 09:08 PM
  #2802  
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Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike
Hey all,

Just picked up my SC10 4x4 and have started putting it together. I've built the front and rear gearboxes, paying attention to the notes on the first page of the thread regarding not tightening the gearbox bolts too much but I still have a little bit of binding. It almost feels like it's in the gears as it is there even with the screws backed WAY out. Anybody else experience this? Is it a matter of simply running a few packs through the truck to get it to "bed in" or should I be looking for anything else?

Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Mike
Mike,

I just built my gearboxes tonight and the same thing with the rear one, didn't matter how tight the screws were. I spun the gearbox with a dremel on high and the gears seated in after a minute or so. It seems to be a case of just breaking them in. It felt great after that. Try it, I am sure you will get the same result.

I was also able to put on a Racers edge aluminum servo arm and it seems really close to the stock servo arm.
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Old 06-04-2011 | 09:27 PM
  #2803  
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we have a 48 hour sale on some our sc10 4x4 kits. We have over ordered....our mistake = your opportunity.

web Link is below.
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Old 06-04-2011 | 10:02 PM
  #2804  
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I've only had the car a week and I've been wondering anyone having any problems with the belt? Also any tips of maintenance of the belt? Some losi guys keep telling me it's gonna break
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Old 06-05-2011 | 12:23 AM
  #2805  
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Originally Posted by Matt Howard
Dear AE,
Why didn't you include the swaybars in the kit? This truck is SO much better with swaybars front and rear.

yours truly,
Matt

+10000000000

I'm waiting for them to come out before I race again...I raced today against some guys who made their own sway bars...I was so discouraged because I couldn't keep up with them. I did notice that that I went 3 seconds faster than last time at was at my track...I went to the 19t pulley and took off the shock booties & limited the up travel...truck worked good but just couldn't push it at all w/o the sway bars
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