Like the last person that leaves gets stuck with the check ...


it looks like mugen MBX5 springs could work, I just don't know the rates.

Any RTR I have seen, the wheels were pre-mounted and glued.

Looks good to me man. Sorry to see ya selling it. I free bumped ya, lol.

The tires do come glued to the rims on the RTR.

Hey guys just finished my build on the sc10 4x4 and I have a couple question. First with the clicker,the front wheels seem to roll-on alot longer than the back and make that noise is that how it works??should I tighten it down ??it seems to free wheel the front pretty easy. Also i see alot of you run Savox servo's, this is my first one (always had airtronics) it seems to be glitchy when at idle and actually bounces when returning to center quickly. What is up with that?? thanks for any responses

Was going to use this setup for carpet, tight track with jumps:

- 10K up front, 5K rear
- yellow springs all around
- Clutch basket (will have to see how it is configured when it comes in)
- Yellow sway bars all around
- Exotek chassis, inline saddle setup
- Configured with RPM a-arms all around

I am doing a rebuild of my vehicle and I am looking to use the Kody Spektrum Off-Road Championship setup instead.
I unfortunately do not have 10K fluid for up front. I have 30K, 7K, 5K, 2K, and 1K .

With that in mind and assuming no fluid mixing, should I try 7K up front, 5K in the rear?

I also have front blue springs I can use in the rear. This is with stock pistons available. Should I try the blues in the rear or just go yellow around for now? If I try the blues, what oil and pistons should I try?

Thx. Not leaving just focusing on buggy for a while. I like this truck. Just a waste for me to let it sit.

I have run on carpet and yellow springs and bars was my set-up. I used 30k ft. 7k rear because of the high bite. Too light of fluid on high bite track will make the truck "diff out" in the corners. Just depends on your track and layout.

i think that is a non hex wheel.....not gonna fit

Will not fit.

It's for a old RTR or FT version of a 2wd SC10. Pin, not Hex.

If this is to be a pure tight carpet setup I would forgo the exotech and run a light weight setup. I think RPM arms are a good idea if your carpet track is like mine and is surrounded by hard things to run into like plywood jumps and concrete walls.

What are you guys running for tires on carpet? I like to run stock when practicing to get that slick dirt feel, but was running caliber super softs for carpet races with good results until they started to wear down.

I TQed and won the main tonight at the carpet track in 2wd (usually not enough for 4x4) running barcodes up front and pressure points in the rear both green dots and it was perfect. Plenty of grip and response up front and good forward grip in the rear with just enough side grip to preven traction rolls and to whip the back end around the 180's. I'll try that combo next time I run 4x4 on carpet as well.

SORRY FOR SO MANY PICTURES BUT I WANTED TO SHOW EVERYTHING

So, as a few people know, (mantis, nmdesertracer) I was having trouble with run time with my 5200 mAh 60c saddles. I run on a fairly large, low traction 1/8th scale track with 5 minute heats and 10 minute mains. So, I set out on my path to find a solution but wanted to try something new at the same time. After I did some major brainstorming and alot of measuring and calculations, I came up with a possible solution: run 1/12th scale 1s lipos as saddles.

Next, I called and spoke with Don at AE. Spent about an hour on the phone with him, running the idea by him and got alot of good feedback and input from him. So, it was settled, I had my plan.

First, I drew a 1x1 of the chassis and batteries



Second, ordered everything that I would need for the project.







Sheet's of carbon fiber are .205mm thick and .100mm thick. I only ordered the .205 sheet and the .100 was given to me by the company I ordered it from. The bottoms of the sheets are raw.

Third, after everything arrived, I began. First, I used a band saw to cut 3x strips of the carbon fiber into 7mm x 110mm to build the lipo cradle. The 2 side pieces ended up being 7mm x 94mm and the back piece is 7mm x 107. I used some 320 grit sandpaper to scuff the chassis so that I could use CA to glue the Carbon fiber strips to the chassis.



Here's a test fitting and the side view. So much shorter, you can barely see them from the side.





(Yes, the batteries are in there!!)



Next, I had to put the battery posts in and do some battery straps. Forgot to take some pictures of these steps. All that was left was to switch the chassis plates out and put my electronics back in.

Heres a picture of the finished project.



Now, heres a picture of the before (saddle setup) and the new (1s saddle setup) on the scales and the numbers that go with them:





I will be posting an in-depth race report after tomorrow. I cant wait to get to the track and get some stick time in. Hope you guys enjoy.

What ESC do you run? My brother in law uses a MMP and has the same issue.. the BEC is too weak and the power collapses randomly. I fixed it by putting in a 5$ BEC from hobbyking, no more issues since.

Nice set up lodhammerdin. I think Craigmba did something like that too. Be cool to hear your results.

I forgot that info sorry, A M11x with Havoc Pro with x-drive 550. I see alot of people are using those bec so I will try. Although it worked great on a 6.6v life pack during the build. Must be getting some interference with the esc