5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
02-12-2012 | 09:34 AM
Luv it!! Thats the way a race truck should look after after tearing it up and topping the podium!!
Looks like you just finished running hard on a wet and rutted out round at Glenn Helen!
Speaking of, i know its off topic but are trucks are based off these
..Here is a sweet vid of the end of the loors, it's this years last event in the series, and is a cup race that pits 2wd vs 4wd's!!
Again, sorry for being off topic just hope the clip may be enjoyed by others, and if your into racing at any level you will enjoy this battle (not to mention there is as much hacking as we have to deal with in our beloved 1/10 / 1/8 scale sct classes jk)!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PL...layer_embedded
Looks like you just finished running hard on a wet and rutted out round at Glenn Helen! Speaking of, i know its off topic but are trucks are based off these..Here is a sweet vid of the end of the loors, it's this years last event in the series, and is a cup race that pits 2wd vs 4wd's!!Again, sorry for being off topic just hope the clip may be enjoyed by others, and if your into racing at any level you will enjoy this battle (not to mention there is as much hacking as we have to deal with in our beloved 1/10 / 1/8 scale sct classes jk)
!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PL...layer_embedded
The track was a bit muddy when they opened the doors for practice. I was just going to wait for it to dry up but thought I'd get a couple laps in. I just thought the truck looked cool with the mud on the rear fenders Its was fun sliding around the corners and throwing roost!!!Great video!!! Thank you for sharing
02-12-2012 | 09:49 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Anyone ever try motocycle chain lube on their tires? Sounds a bit counter-intutive at first, but it's basically designed more to clean off grime and recondition the orings on the chain as the actual lubercant is sealed inside the chain via those o-rings
It also has a tacky element added to keep it from flying off the chain at high speeds. So in one can you have cleaner, ruber conditioner, and sticky.
I just put some on my stock bashing tires and some old calibers I need to throw out soon anway. Haven't tried them on the truck, but the stock tires seem to actually have grip now, and the calibers feel like bubble gum where they were about to be thrown away.
It also has a tacky element added to keep it from flying off the chain at high speeds. So in one can you have cleaner, ruber conditioner, and sticky.
I just put some on my stock bashing tires and some old calibers I need to throw out soon anway. Haven't tried them on the truck, but the stock tires seem to actually have grip now, and the calibers feel like bubble gum where they were about to be thrown away.
Last edited by Mizchief; 02-12-2012 at 10:13 AM.
02-12-2012 | 12:52 PM
02-12-2012 | 01:00 PM
Pacific NW Shootout.
As luck would have it I fell apart in A1 and did not drive traffic to hold the lead placing 2nd. A2 I was out front and checked out and lost a screw in a rear shock piston and ran the last 8 laps placing 3rd. (picking up a new bottle of loctite today. 
) My fast lap was .2 faster than others and I had the fastest top 5 and 10 laps in my class. I felt my truck was the fastest on the track. Just was not my day to win...
Disclaimer: I do believe no two trucks are the same and will handle the same. Not all tracks or drivers will like the same set-up but the set-up can be used as a base to start you in a direction to find what you like. If you have the aluminum chassis or center diff you ARE going to have different results in how this will work on your truck.
So with that said I would like to share a set-up that I have found that I really like. This past weekend at a NW series event my truck was REAL good and I did have the fast lap times on the track for the class. It might not be for everyone or every track but it has been working very well the last couple of weeks. The track I run on is indoor wet type clay track. I does dry out at times but really just requires a tire change. Run the tires that work for your track that you normally run. As always the correct tire is 75% of your set-up. I did have a run on newer tires that made it push on power so changing that made it stay right on line. I am still playing the ball stud shimming so that might not be 100%.
I personally needed a set-up that turns in hard and would start to rotate on the brakes. When I picked up the throttle the truck will continue to rotate trough the corner but not get loose on exit. My home track is a fairly tight layout with lots of 180 turns and “S” type turns with great jump combo sections with one “go big” jump section.
A couple of things that set up sheet does not let you list :
I am running the MTK clutch basket with two garodisc in the basket. The inner pad is a standard yellow AE pad. I run the slipper as loose as is needed for the traction available. In my case a none-flanged nut just past flush. This seem to help the truck drive more like a 2w truck around 180’s when under braking the rear brakes harder than the front starting the rotation around the corners but still have the aid of the front to accelerate through an around the turn. I used the 19t front pulley to make the on power steering quicker. You might like the 20t. Again this favors my driving style and I feel it is a quicker corner.
The front diff fluid I used 10k when the track was damp and I was running slicks but when I needed to change to treads I had to go down to 7k in the front to stop the truck from pushing out when the throttle was applied coming out of corners. I also sanded some tread off the tires to cut the side bite down. To drop the rear fluid would have cut down on my on power steering but gave me more turn in which was not favorable for what I was trying to achieve for a set up. Plus the 7k front and rear gave the truck a good balance feel.
I was using the RCShox steering rack but was running the stock hole location, I still like the rack even if I do use the stock hole. LOL
Weight: I run the stock chassis center section. Ready to run my truck weighs in at 95oz right now. I know most everyone is liking there ladies a little more on the chubby side but I like a lighter lady. Added weight is 1oz behind the battery, ½ oz on each side of the battery and ¼ oz in each of the rear slots in the plastic chassis sides. I also have ¼ oz added to balance motor weight.
The shocks use RCShox pistons and glued 1 compression hole giving me 5 at 1.1 and 6 at 1.3. I am going to try a little less rebound next time out though. The rear springs are front green springs. To run them I moved the clip on limiters to the other side of the lower collar. They will slide in where the shock end goes with the little tabs sticking out of the slot. I use 3mm of clip spacers with the stock rubber shim, about 5mm total up travel limiters. All shocks turned out 2.5 turns on the shock ends.
My under tray: I have come to the conclusion that it is not for most off-road tracks. The benefits do not out weigh the negatives in my case. Big jump control and consistently being able to control the air flight is best left to those that make bodies to do so and not use an under tray. If your track has lots of small jumps and high speed sections please feel free to make one to try.
) My fast lap was .2 faster than others and I had the fastest top 5 and 10 laps in my class. I felt my truck was the fastest on the track. Just was not my day to win...Disclaimer: I do believe no two trucks are the same and will handle the same. Not all tracks or drivers will like the same set-up but the set-up can be used as a base to start you in a direction to find what you like. If you have the aluminum chassis or center diff you ARE going to have different results in how this will work on your truck.
So with that said I would like to share a set-up that I have found that I really like. This past weekend at a NW series event my truck was REAL good and I did have the fast lap times on the track for the class. It might not be for everyone or every track but it has been working very well the last couple of weeks. The track I run on is indoor wet type clay track. I does dry out at times but really just requires a tire change. Run the tires that work for your track that you normally run. As always the correct tire is 75% of your set-up. I did have a run on newer tires that made it push on power so changing that made it stay right on line. I am still playing the ball stud shimming so that might not be 100%.
I personally needed a set-up that turns in hard and would start to rotate on the brakes. When I picked up the throttle the truck will continue to rotate trough the corner but not get loose on exit. My home track is a fairly tight layout with lots of 180 turns and “S” type turns with great jump combo sections with one “go big” jump section.
A couple of things that set up sheet does not let you list :
I am running the MTK clutch basket with two garodisc in the basket. The inner pad is a standard yellow AE pad. I run the slipper as loose as is needed for the traction available. In my case a none-flanged nut just past flush. This seem to help the truck drive more like a 2w truck around 180’s when under braking the rear brakes harder than the front starting the rotation around the corners but still have the aid of the front to accelerate through an around the turn. I used the 19t front pulley to make the on power steering quicker. You might like the 20t. Again this favors my driving style and I feel it is a quicker corner.
The front diff fluid I used 10k when the track was damp and I was running slicks but when I needed to change to treads I had to go down to 7k in the front to stop the truck from pushing out when the throttle was applied coming out of corners. I also sanded some tread off the tires to cut the side bite down. To drop the rear fluid would have cut down on my on power steering but gave me more turn in which was not favorable for what I was trying to achieve for a set up. Plus the 7k front and rear gave the truck a good balance feel.
I was using the RCShox steering rack but was running the stock hole location, I still like the rack even if I do use the stock hole. LOL
Weight: I run the stock chassis center section. Ready to run my truck weighs in at 95oz right now. I know most everyone is liking there ladies a little more on the chubby side but I like a lighter lady. Added weight is 1oz behind the battery, ½ oz on each side of the battery and ¼ oz in each of the rear slots in the plastic chassis sides. I also have ¼ oz added to balance motor weight.
The shocks use RCShox pistons and glued 1 compression hole giving me 5 at 1.1 and 6 at 1.3. I am going to try a little less rebound next time out though. The rear springs are front green springs. To run them I moved the clip on limiters to the other side of the lower collar. They will slide in where the shock end goes with the little tabs sticking out of the slot. I use 3mm of clip spacers with the stock rubber shim, about 5mm total up travel limiters. All shocks turned out 2.5 turns on the shock ends.
My under tray: I have come to the conclusion that it is not for most off-road tracks. The benefits do not out weigh the negatives in my case. Big jump control and consistently being able to control the air flight is best left to those that make bodies to do so and not use an under tray. If your track has lots of small jumps and high speed sections please feel free to make one to try.
02-12-2012 | 01:44 PM
Awesome! Imma try ur setup and see how it goes although half of the setup is same. Your info is reallly helpful
As luck would have it I fell apart in A1 and did not drive traffic to hold the lead placing 2nd. A2 I was out front and checked out and lost a screw in a rear shock piston and ran the last 8 laps placing 3rd. (picking up a new bottle of loctite today. ) My fast lap was .2 faster than others and I had the fastest top 5 and 10 laps in my class. I felt my truck was the fastest on the track. Just was not my day to win...
Disclaimer: I do believe no two trucks are the same and will handle the same. Not all tracks or drivers will like the same set-up but the set-up can be used as a base to start you in a direction to find what you like. If you have the aluminum chassis or center diff you ARE going to have different results in how this will work on your truck.
So with that said I would like to share a set-up that I have found that I really like. This past weekend at a NW series event my truck was REAL good and I did have the fast lap times on the track for the class. It might not be for everyone or every track but it has been working very well the last couple of weeks. The track I run on is indoor wet type clay track. I does dry out at times but really just requires a tire change. Run the tires that work for your track that you normally run. As always the correct tire is 75% of your set-up. I did have a run on newer tires that made it push on power so changing that made it stay right on line. I am still playing the ball stud shimming so that might not be 100%.
I personally needed a set-up that turns in hard and would start to rotate on the brakes. When I picked up the throttle the truck will continue to rotate trough the corner but not get loose on exit. My home track is a fairly tight layout with lots of 180 turns and “S” type turns with great jump combo sections with one “go big” jump section.
A couple of things that set up sheet does not let you list :
I am running the MTK clutch basket with two garodisc in the basket. The inner pad is a standard yellow AE pad. I run the slipper as loose as is needed for the traction available. In my case a none-flanged nut just past flush. This seem to help the truck drive more like a 2w truck around 180’s when under braking the rear brakes harder than the front starting the rotation around the corners but still have the aid of the front to accelerate through an around the turn. I used the 19t front pulley to make the on power steering quicker. You might like the 20t. Again this favors my driving style and I feel it is a quicker corner.
The front diff fluid I used 10k when the track was damp and I was running slicks but when I needed to change to treads I had to go down to 7k in the front to stop the truck from pushing out when the throttle was applied coming out of corners. I also sanded some tread off the tires to cut the side bite down. To drop the rear fluid would have cut down on my on power steering but gave me more turn in which was not favorable for what I was trying to achieve for a set up. Plus the 7k front and rear gave the truck a good balance feel.
I was using the RCShox steering rack but was running the stock hole location, I still like the rack even if I do use the stock hole. LOL
Weight: I run the stock chassis center section. Ready to run my truck weighs in at 95oz right now. I know most everyone is liking there ladies a little more on the chubby side but I like a lighter lady. Added weight is 1oz behind the battery, ½ oz on each side of the battery and ¼ oz in each of the rear slots in the plastic chassis sides. I also have ¼ oz added to balance motor weight.
The shocks use RCShox pistons and glued 1 compression hole giving me 5 at 1.1 and 6 at 1.3. I am going to try a little less rebound next time out though. The rear springs are front green springs. To run them I moved the clip on limiters to the other side of the lower collar. They will slide in where the shock end goes with the little tabs sticking out of the slot. I use 3mm of clip spacers with the stock rubber shim, about 5mm total up travel limiters. All shocks turned out 2.5 turns on the shock ends.
My under tray: I have come to the conclusion that it is not for most off-road tracks. The benefits do not out weigh the negatives in my case. Big jump control and consistently being able to control the air flight is best left to those that make bodies to do so and not use an under tray. If your track has lots of small jumps and high speed sections please feel free to make one to try.
) My fast lap was .2 faster than others and I had the fastest top 5 and 10 laps in my class. I felt my truck was the fastest on the track. Just was not my day to win...Disclaimer: I do believe no two trucks are the same and will handle the same. Not all tracks or drivers will like the same set-up but the set-up can be used as a base to start you in a direction to find what you like. If you have the aluminum chassis or center diff you ARE going to have different results in how this will work on your truck.
So with that said I would like to share a set-up that I have found that I really like. This past weekend at a NW series event my truck was REAL good and I did have the fast lap times on the track for the class. It might not be for everyone or every track but it has been working very well the last couple of weeks. The track I run on is indoor wet type clay track. I does dry out at times but really just requires a tire change. Run the tires that work for your track that you normally run. As always the correct tire is 75% of your set-up. I did have a run on newer tires that made it push on power so changing that made it stay right on line. I am still playing the ball stud shimming so that might not be 100%.
I personally needed a set-up that turns in hard and would start to rotate on the brakes. When I picked up the throttle the truck will continue to rotate trough the corner but not get loose on exit. My home track is a fairly tight layout with lots of 180 turns and “S” type turns with great jump combo sections with one “go big” jump section.
A couple of things that set up sheet does not let you list :
I am running the MTK clutch basket with two garodisc in the basket. The inner pad is a standard yellow AE pad. I run the slipper as loose as is needed for the traction available. In my case a none-flanged nut just past flush. This seem to help the truck drive more like a 2w truck around 180’s when under braking the rear brakes harder than the front starting the rotation around the corners but still have the aid of the front to accelerate through an around the turn. I used the 19t front pulley to make the on power steering quicker. You might like the 20t. Again this favors my driving style and I feel it is a quicker corner.
The front diff fluid I used 10k when the track was damp and I was running slicks but when I needed to change to treads I had to go down to 7k in the front to stop the truck from pushing out when the throttle was applied coming out of corners. I also sanded some tread off the tires to cut the side bite down. To drop the rear fluid would have cut down on my on power steering but gave me more turn in which was not favorable for what I was trying to achieve for a set up. Plus the 7k front and rear gave the truck a good balance feel.
I was using the RCShox steering rack but was running the stock hole location, I still like the rack even if I do use the stock hole. LOL
Weight: I run the stock chassis center section. Ready to run my truck weighs in at 95oz right now. I know most everyone is liking there ladies a little more on the chubby side but I like a lighter lady. Added weight is 1oz behind the battery, ½ oz on each side of the battery and ¼ oz in each of the rear slots in the plastic chassis sides. I also have ¼ oz added to balance motor weight.
The shocks use RCShox pistons and glued 1 compression hole giving me 5 at 1.1 and 6 at 1.3. I am going to try a little less rebound next time out though. The rear springs are front green springs. To run them I moved the clip on limiters to the other side of the lower collar. They will slide in where the shock end goes with the little tabs sticking out of the slot. I use 3mm of clip spacers with the stock rubber shim, about 5mm total up travel limiters. All shocks turned out 2.5 turns on the shock ends.
My under tray: I have come to the conclusion that it is not for most off-road tracks. The benefits do not out weigh the negatives in my case. Big jump control and consistently being able to control the air flight is best left to those that make bodies to do so and not use an under tray. If your track has lots of small jumps and high speed sections please feel free to make one to try.
02-12-2012 | 03:43 PM