It's not, at least with the RcShox center diff. If all 4 wheels are locked down, the ball diff will slip given no other place to transfer the energy. I've only had that happen when I was using grease instead of diff fluid.

I dont mind the belt skipping because it acts as a kind of one way (clicker)but not fully. The thing thats been giving me trouble and Im sure others is there is not much room for error in the belt adjustment. It has to be set on the looser side or it will come off under brakes. Very easy to get it wrong.
I had it set one day and it was fine. Drove it the next day (colder weather) and the tension was slightly tighter on it own and the belt came off in a flash.

I am running the basket and three Garodisc's. On fairly high grip clay I was running it with 2mm of the shaft showing. I started with the nut flush, per the suggestion of someone on this forum, then tightened it down until I had the slip I wanted.

I think this will also depend on teh spring you have and whether it is losing some of it's spring.

Disclaimer: I am new to the RC game. I have driven my truck a whole 4 times, so take this info with that in mind.

I prefer to use the "Break Power" setting in my MMP rather than EPA as it still lets you use the full resolution on the trigger.

Your belt tunnels need to be changed. All the problems people have had with belts and idlers come down to the belt tunnels getting warped, which misaligns the front belt idler, which randomly causes the belt to come off. One hard yard dart is enough.

If you search this thread, you will find many other users over the past six months who have had this problem.

It is also why so many of us have gone to the chassis brace, which (IMO) is misnamed. It's a belt tension stability device. Chassis under compression with the chassis brace:



Chassis under compression, one end of chassis brace removed:

Also make sure that your motor mount is properly seated in the groove and didn't slip out when messing around with the rear diff. The only time I had belt problems was due to that. A tell-tale sign is that you will have a small gap on the rear of the belt tunnel and a small groove being worn down the center of the spur from the pinon being a little off.

Holy.

Should be there sometime Friday, not sure exactly when. Probably riding with Battaile and he's always late. :P

Oddly enough, before I had the exotech chassis, having never owned a chassis brace, i have never had the belt jump off. And trust me when I say that I have lawn darted my truck dozens upon dozens of times enought time to have broken three stock front bumpers and one aftermarket bumper
Go figure.

There is no possible way to tighten the belt that much without bending the belt tunnels, which misaligned the idler/tensioner. This belt tunnel deformation is why you are losing the belt.

My belt is adjusted with zero slack, it will only skip at WOT on the street with the brake EPA set at 100%. At the track I can't adjust in any more than 50% brake EPA without locking up ALL FOUR WHEELS, and testing on the street with 50% EPA at WOT does not slip the belt.

Since I never race in the street, it's never a problem, and even if I did, I have a chassis brace to keep the belt tunnels from deforming so it never will be a problem.

If you're having belt problems I feel bad for you son,
I got 99 problems, but the belt ain't one.

Makes total sense to me.

The Exotech chassis puts enough beam stiffness in the chassis you don't need the chassis brace. YMMV with the whole bumper thing.

Love it, I'm running the setup on tekins website.
I run Thunder Power batteries 65c 5300mah

RCShox up on thebigrc

RCshox performance package

before the exotech chassis

Nice review!