anyone have any recommendations on some saddle pack lipos that don't break the bank? need to be ROAR legal.

New rear skid plate from DE racing.

DERacing rear skid plate.

Because nobody likes skidmarks in their rear.

got to love typos. Might just be the quote of the day.

Again, Roylo. That's incorrect.

Anyone experiencing issues was having the belt loosen under braking and it would roll off. Other reason was misalignment like Craig stated.

You are again, completely wrong on "not much room for error". I've had the belt way too tight, and way(way) too loose, with no issue other than pre-maturely stretching out the belt.

Something. is wrong. with your truck!

I agree. I've ran mine tight and looser then norm I thought and no problems.

Yea I've had it skip a bit when running full speed on pavement and locking the breaks, but never on dirt or had it actually come off other than when my motor plate was out of whack.

I always tighten the front tensioner down to the second tightest slot, then use the rear to actually set the overall slack on the belt. that along with the STRC pully wheels, it removes any chance of the belt cumming off the pulley's.

So now that everyone is not 5407655 miles off topic like usual. I have a question about battery placement. I have the things to do the saddle pack mod. But was wondering which way was better. Side by side or front to back down the middle. Which way is better and why?

That's a real bright way to get some of us to 'care' about any question you may have.

Goodluck.

Inline hands down! it makes the balance of the truck more equal.

inline or down the middle, there the same. The truck reacts better with less nose weight, it will have a pushy feeling. Inline brings the weight to the center, which is good when turning left and right. The more of the weight you have directly in the center allows the truck to change direction faster. think of it like a teeter-totter, with long arms it takes more force and longer to change the direction with short arms the movement is faster but will have more of a twitchy feeling. Now put a 300lb guy on each side, thats what its like with the stick packs, the truck will be a bit sluggish to transition. Losi's and the others can get away with battery placement on one side since their trucks are heavier, the extra weight on the outside isnt as noticeable due to how much more they weigh.

With saddles you eliminate having to weight your truck to off set the stick pack. With a 540 motor (cc 1410 3800 w/ cc mmm) I had to add 4 oz to the left side, then if I had a exo chassis that would put in the losi weight bracket.

Anyone here running an RX8/Novak Ballistic 550 4.5t combo with Mantis' center ball diff? This is the setup I'll be running and am looking for some ESC settings. I just got the RX8 (replaced my MMP). I got the 60 tooth spur from Mantis. Got a 14t pinion on the motor shaft. I run on an indoor track in winter, not too tight, 1 long straightaway, a triple, a quad, and 1 or 2 tight turns. Just looking to get my esc settings close and then I can dial them in from there for my driving style. Should I stick with the 14t pinion, or go up to 15 or 16?

Prob wouldnt go over 12/13 tooth with that setup

sweet!!!

lmao