5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
01-22-2012 | 08:46 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 202
From: CALIFORNIA
When you pin the top shaft incense you are locking the front and rear diff together and if you put the basket in at the same time put too much force in the system and will break a idler, spur or something else. The basket adds more friction to run the rear, pinned locks the front into the rear top shaft making the slipper only to control both at the same time (instead of on side going to the front and the other to the rear).
The diff wt in the front help with the power on turning, if you are going pinned use a lighter wt oil 5-10k, basket go with 30-60k. Carpet needs a lower wt since there is do much more grip and the truck doesnt need help power on turning.
The pulleys are preference, over drive (19R-20F) will pull the front end like a true 4wd (which also allows you to run a lower F diff oil) and have a more "point and shot" feeling. A 20-20 pulley setup is common and allows more top speed. A 20R-19F makes the front gain speed quicker (more torque) and can help the front pull a short bit coming out of a tight corner, it gives the truck a looser rear feeling. Nobody runs a 19-19 setup, but it would help low end torque.
As for belt tension, start with factory settings. and then tighten it a bit once it stretches. If your belt is too tight it binds, and I found that the front will flip itself and run on top of the tension pulley. My belt has stretched a good bit now and I'm running a 3-3 setting or a 2R-4F. The loser the belt is the better it works, to the point of slipping. I use to run go karts and we ran the chains the same way, loose until the point the would come off, there was even a guard we used to help keep the chain on when it should of fallen off. I cant remember to true reason why a looser setting helped, but I think it had to do with the pulling side did all the work while the other did nothing. If you take the belt tunnel off the truck you will see that the bottom is tight while the top flops.
The diff wt in the front help with the power on turning, if you are going pinned use a lighter wt oil 5-10k, basket go with 30-60k. Carpet needs a lower wt since there is do much more grip and the truck doesnt need help power on turning.
The pulleys are preference, over drive (19R-20F) will pull the front end like a true 4wd (which also allows you to run a lower F diff oil) and have a more "point and shot" feeling. A 20-20 pulley setup is common and allows more top speed. A 20R-19F makes the front gain speed quicker (more torque) and can help the front pull a short bit coming out of a tight corner, it gives the truck a looser rear feeling. Nobody runs a 19-19 setup, but it would help low end torque.
As for belt tension, start with factory settings. and then tighten it a bit once it stretches. If your belt is too tight it binds, and I found that the front will flip itself and run on top of the tension pulley. My belt has stretched a good bit now and I'm running a 3-3 setting or a 2R-4F. The loser the belt is the better it works, to the point of slipping. I use to run go karts and we ran the chains the same way, loose until the point the would come off, there was even a guard we used to help keep the chain on when it should of fallen off. I cant remember to true reason why a looser setting helped, but I think it had to do with the pulling side did all the work while the other did nothing. If you take the belt tunnel off the truck you will see that the bottom is tight while the top flops.
Kbmoss - Many thanks for the detailed reply! It is appreciated! So I guess the choice is to use The Pinned Shaft with a slipper pad combo of the Garodisks, HD Pads and/or Stock Slipper Pads.... OR The MTK Clutch Basket with the Garodisk, HD Pads and/or Stock Slipper Pads... to avoid the Idler Gear from getting chewed... Correct?
Any suggestions on what Slipper Pad combo works best with either set-up considering the truck will be running outdoors with big jumps... and probably hard landings? 
Thanks again for taking the time to share some info! I hope I can get the truck ready for testing during the week!
01-22-2012 | 09:18 PM
If I run stock spur gear what pinion should I run with a tenshock sc411 sensored 4pole 4600kv motor. running tight indoor carpet track so still debating between 4000 and 4600.
need some gearing suggestions.
need some gearing suggestions.
01-22-2012 | 10:09 PM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
01-22-2012 | 10:21 PM
Protip: Beating me in a Race does not mean you're right about your opinion of user error for things like the warped A-arms, just because you haven't had the issue.
inb4 "i undarstud wat he sed"
01-22-2012 | 10:37 PM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Portland'd N/w Shoot Out seriers ,race #2
You can understand just fine Yote
February 11 Portland R/c Raceway
We had 200 entries for the #1 race @ TRCR in Tacoma WA..
about 22 of um were Sc 4x4's....
maybe even more at your local track ?
Ha ! Ha ! Ha !
February 11 Portland R/c Raceway
We had 200 entries for the #1 race @ TRCR in Tacoma WA..
about 22 of um were Sc 4x4's....
maybe even more at your local track ?
Ha ! Ha ! Ha !
01-22-2012 | 10:38 PM
01-22-2012 | 10:43 PM
Edited for English readers:
I'm not accepting any of your stupid Pink Truck Challenges, WC. It's not about who's better. It's about your false opinion pressed upon these guys basically telling them it's user error that their A-arms that have been off the ground every moment other than being driven, Bend by no fault of their own, that their slippers burn up because they can't figure out a cloth pad. Your "precious" factory team didn't account for all forms of driving and power systems. Get over it and get back to racing your pridefully Stock Sc10 4x4, and stop Bird Pecking the Keyboard on my account. kthx
Btw: I'd lose.
Sorry everyone.
Edit: you know... The sad thing is we'd probably really get along in person. =/
I'm not accepting any of your stupid Pink Truck Challenges, WC. It's not about who's better. It's about your false opinion pressed upon these guys basically telling them it's user error that their A-arms that have been off the ground every moment other than being driven, Bend by no fault of their own, that their slippers burn up because they can't figure out a cloth pad. Your "precious" factory team didn't account for all forms of driving and power systems. Get over it and get back to racing your pridefully Stock Sc10 4x4, and stop Bird Pecking the Keyboard on my account. kthx
Btw: I'd lose.
Sorry everyone.
Edit: you know... The sad thing is we'd probably really get along in person. =/
Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 01-22-2012 at 10:54 PM.
01-22-2012 | 10:54 PM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Pacific N/w Shoot Out Feburary 11th
Coyote ,
I will be only one of the many that will be joining the fun , u really need to be there ......
i expect you actually , can't imagine why you would not be ....
Just in case though..
BOOOOOOO !!!!
Don't let a PINK JC Raptor scare you ....K ?
I will be only one of the many that will be joining the fun , u really need to be there ......
i expect you actually , can't imagine why you would not be ....
Just in case though..
BOOOOOOO !!!!
Don't let a PINK JC Raptor scare you ....K ?
01-22-2012 | 10:59 PM
I'll see you there.
01-22-2012 | 10:59 PM
01-22-2012 | 11:08 PM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Tell you what ?
You miss out again ?
will personally kill you myself ...
I only can only pray to make the main, will be fast ......
Sponsor's of the Pacific N/w Shoot Out
Ae
High Velocity
ORCA
01-22-2012 | 11:11 PM
