I looked at that part and it doesn't seem any different than the regular inner slipper hub... Wonder if its the wrong pic or you can't see the difference at that right angle.

I'm getting a minimum 12 min out of my 5600 saddles on a decent size indoor track pushing the car hard. To each their own... It'd be interesting to run dual shortys and see if the added weight would help or hinder the truck. Nice setup

that makes a difference. Runtime is track and driving style dependent. Easy way to see this just pop a set of tires on your truck that are the opposite of what are the hot ticket, and see how much runtime you burn up just on wheel spin.

Me personally I got about 12 minutes with the Promatch 5200mah 50Cs pushing it hard on the smaller low traction track.

The part number and link are correct, but the pic does not show the difference (I still can't tell if AE is showing the other part, or the angle is too flat).

Check out this link:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...pper-Hub-Inner

In both pics you can see that the hub (91188) is keyed to rotate with the drive shaft. The stock/standard part (91092) is not keyed, so can only spin with friction between the hub/slipper pad/spur gear assembly.

pt 91092: stock part allows front and rear tires to slip, independently of each other

pt 91188: option coupled slipper which couples front and rear tires (so they slip or drive together)

One other slipper option is the locked hub fro Exotek (front tires ALWAYS drive, never slip, but VTS outer slipper pad allows rear end to slip).

Hope this helps.

ok tryed the 13 out ran better and not hot or esc was cool thanks guys. 13 is staying on thanks guys

What were your temps? Motor & esc?

Very helpful, thanks. Could you give an idea on which option would be best for which track conditions?

under 150 for the esc and motor was not hot at all

Oh, I'm sorry sir, you must have mistaken me for someone who can drive his truck competently. The information I provided is based only on my ability to poke around the internet, surf the forums, etc. because I can't go to my track and learn to drive my truck because I have to watch my kids, etc.

No, seriously, I don't have enough experience to provide any real guidance. What I can tell you would be based on what I have read in this thread, something along the lines of:

On outdoor tracks or tracks with loose top, low traction, RCShox C-diff seems to be the almost unanimous choice. It does great indoors as well.

For indoor, high bite tracks, or if you are one person living in Washington State, the normal VTS seems to be acceptable (although Maifield used the coupled slipper for his recent win, I think). Word is the coupled slipper )or pin mod) is pretty hard on the gears, but I couldn't say from my own experience.

There have been lots of anecdotal posts about the Exotek locked hub, stuff about being able to get on the power out of corners or something like that.

One thing to keep in mind when looking at transferring power to the ground . . . a lot of people go with 19t overdrive up front. It may help with stability that might be lost by a less-than-ideal slipper assembly.

All of these options (save the C-diff) are under 10 bucks so I would defintitely say buy the various hubs, try the 19t, see if a buddy has the C-diff, and see what will work best.

I can personally tell you that the normal VTS is amazing on a large, outdoor, loose 8th scale track. On the back straight you can punch the throttle and spin the truck 180+ degrees in less than 1.4 seconds. I should take my own advice and try the hubs I have bought but not yet tested.

Plus 1

if he can't make time must a problem somewhere else other than the battery

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...0-10V--2S-LiPo

keep in mind what you quoted the other person said, that on his track you can't drive really fast. Power demands you place on the battery matter when concerning runtime in most cases.

I managed to dump a set of 6000mah batterys just under 10 minutes which worked fine previously for 10 minute running (same day) as I went up 2 pinion sizes for more speed. Knowing this, I went with higher C rated packs which could handle the load better.

When traction is high or you can put down the power without much wheel spin, you most likely will use less battery than when its loose. Saw this big time when I ran indoor winter racing with 1/8 electric. When I had the wrong tires and was pulling 200 ft straights packs that could do 20 minutes in ideal conditions were dumping at around 18. Luckily, I wanted 15 minute run time regardless so it didn't matter but it was a strong consideration.

And for 1/10 SCT, we are using really high Kv motors which can be very piggish on power requirements which will affect your runtime. Running on tracks in the 1/8 scale size like myself and others do, it can make a big difference versus what others are seeing on small indoor tracks.

Probably why some are using shorties.

"Plus 1"

Well put, Cain.

Thanks. One thing I am curious about is if ROAR rules for saddles grandfathered in those fatter saddles like the Gens Ace or Hyperion 6000s, if they kept the sizes as an option could have some really long runtimes available.

I want to give the decouples slipper a try.
Are any of you guys running it or the Ryan m setup?