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Old 10-19-2012 | 04:18 PM
  #30541  
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Originally Posted by vito
it came with a 13 tooth 32 p will it work from the slash 4x4
Yep, running on the street though you can probably go 14. But you have the 13 in hand so try that. If your temping at 140ish, you may want to order a 14.
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Old 10-19-2012 | 04:39 PM
  #30542  
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the motor was cool on the 15 tooth the esc temp light came on for 150 over. ill try the 13 tooth out. it was fast on the 15 but esc ran hot.
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Old 10-19-2012 | 04:54 PM
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Sounds like as prostreet said a bigger cap is your solution if the motors cool, esc's hot and going to a smaller pinion brought the esc temp down.
In the mean time, try the 13 and if all's still cool, a 14 then ultimately do the cap when you can.
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Old 10-19-2012 | 05:02 PM
  #30544  
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Originally Posted by Prostreet314
Cain, Manits, WC, correct me if I'm wrong but I believe they are reffering to the pinned rear topshaft kit. You need a top shaft with a hole drilled in it, a pin to fit that hole and a back slipper plate with a grove machined into it to fit over the pin. Locks the slipper together for front and rear drive. Fastlapproducts.net makes one
that sounds right to me but I haven't tried that setup since i run the center diff.
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Old 10-19-2012 | 05:07 PM
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If I'm not mistaken, pin goes through the slipper plate to the spur or something, not the shaft right? Been a long time since I've heard mention of it since most are using multi pad slippers or the C-Diff... and I never ran the pin mod so going off memory from months back
There is an option rear top shaft that locks front drive (I think front), but that doesn't use a pin. It's an AE part.
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Old 10-19-2012 | 05:10 PM
  #30546  
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Pin mod locks the slipper for the front, to the shaft. That way the front and rear are slipping together.
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Old 10-19-2012 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by keddy
Pin mod locks the slipper for the front, to the shaft. That way the front and rear are slipping together.
What does the pin run through from the shaft? The spur?
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Old 10-19-2012 | 05:15 PM
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Found it...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9764733-post8374.html
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Old 10-19-2012 | 05:36 PM
  #30549  
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just put the 13 tooth in try out win the sun comes out to late
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Old 10-19-2012 | 06:17 PM
  #30550  
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Originally Posted by roland5color
How do you couple the vts? Do I have to buy any extra parts to do it?
Yes, you can by the Associated option part from your LHS or favorite online retailer:

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91188/

This replaces pt no 91092 and does the same as the old pin mod (before my time).
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Old 10-19-2012 | 06:44 PM
  #30551  
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Just finished a shorty pack mod to make the 10 min mains here in NC



What ya think?
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Old 10-19-2012 | 08:22 PM
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Well, just got back from race night. How about slick clay on a 45 degree night. Talk about no traction. Good news, the diff rebuild with 2 shims works and works well - very smooth. It seems I left out one of the inner rubber seals last rebuild.

Was a little more consistent tonight, not as many turtles but the ones that I did have came at exactly the wrong times, got to work on the driving.

Any thoughts on what to do with the fluid as the temp drops. We race outside and will be racing through the winter here in South Carolina.
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Old 10-20-2012 | 12:23 AM
  #30553  
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Originally Posted by samuelsonmark71
Just finished a shorty pack mod to make the 10 min mains here in NC.

What ya think?
Looks good but do you really need two shorty packs to make 10 minutes?
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Old 10-20-2012 | 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
Looks good but do you really need two shorty packs to make 10 minutes?
10 minutes is asking alot of Saddle packs for a "i'm sure i'll finish" feeling.

Alot of guys stuck with sticks for that reason.
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Old 10-20-2012 | 01:31 AM
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I really dont get why u guys all have problems with 10min mains? I drive 17mins with my 5600mAh noname batteries for 30$ xD but you cant drive really fast on our track.
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