I'm sure it's going to work fine and i'm not trying to steal your thunder, but:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...-radio-SPM3300
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXZZD1&P=ML

Quality for 10-20 bucks more. (and a 50.00 reciever is included in those prices)

Yea I like the first one. I've been using pretty much all Spectrum stuff for both air and land since I started. But kinda of wish I sprung for one that has telemetry for the lap timer. Would be nice if MyLaps came out with a cheap backyard timer system to use with their transponders. Would only need it to work with one model and just record a few dozen lap times.

Nope, cause there's a reciever in the 130.00 purchase.

And yeah, i've used spektrum for everything, Air and Sea too. (spektrum has a bad Rap because it's newschool, the old chumps love to bash it about 'brown outs' and all this bad shit. When in reality, it happens less than the futaba and Airtronics stuff, and the service is out of this world)


Futaba and Airtronics although, in themselves professional fantastic radios... Are not so much better that I can validate spending 600.00 on one. My DX3R Pro does 'everything' I'll ever need, all the way down to servo speed reducing.

This is {PURELY} a random question as I have no intention of leaving my Pro 4/MM zone from this point onward, But::

Have any of you guys ran any of the new Venom stuff in any rig for that matter?

http://www.venom-group.com/Store/Mot...roof-ESC-Combo

http://www.venom-group.com/Store/Mot...poof-ESC-Combo

I'm curious because of the waterproofing that people crave here in Oregon for the 4x4 guys who wanna drive in this crappy weather we have 10months a year.

Hey guys, I'm running into some odd binding in both of my gearboxs.

I'm in the process of a ground-up rebuild. Brand new diff housings and diff bearings, but the rest of the gearbox is older stuff that seems to still be in great shape. All the teeth on the gears are still 5 sided and not sharpened to points, the bearings run smooth and the've been re-oiled. Everything spins nicely before the gearbox halves are assembled.

assemble the gearbox halves and it feels OK when you just hold the halves together, but once you get them into the truck and get the 3 long screws in, the gearbox binds at the diff. For 50% rotation, it spins smoothly, then 50% rotation, it binds. Not a huge amount, but certainly too much for me to put the rest of the truck together.


It does this with or without the front clicker installed.
I haven't gotten as far as installing the belt yet, so it's not a tension problem...
I've tried loosening all three of the screws that hold the gearbox together as far as I can and have them still holding on to the front inner belt cover/motor plate and though it seemed to help a little bit from where I originally had it, it still binds more than I'm comfortable with...

If it was slightly tight all the way around, I'd just chalk it up to new bearings being packed with the factory grease, but this 50-50 smooth-binding is worrying me...

Help?

my question was more geared towards the handling portion and the ability to grab a handfull of throttle on a loose track and the fact that it is planted, than the obvious lack of big jumps!

I raced the RCpro finals with that body with no issues

not sure of the noise unless it is the dif noise which of course has been fixed since then, that is an old video.


John, no matter how much power you have or tire choice it seems like the dif is locked up, if the front tires come off of the ground all the power should transfer to them and bring the front back down. In fact the more power you have the quicker that should happen. Are you sure it is working properly? looking at your truck and not seeing the front tires ballon makes me think something is not smooth with the dif. If you hold the spur gear with your hand and twist the slipper nut the front and rear wheels should rotate opposite. Check and see if this is how it is.

This is what I was asking for help with a month ago to no avail. I marked the inside of the housing looking for rub, replaced all bearings, gears, diff, outdrives, idler, topshaft:

And mine still rubbed 10% of the rotation. Goodluck man.

I think it's the same stuff that's in my VMX 450. Programablity leaves much to be desired, but this bike is huge and it pushes it pretty fast right out of the box. Temps were good after my first few runs, but poor quality plastic took it out of the game pretty quick.

erg....I think I might have figured it out....sort of....

Since the binding got better when I loosened the 3 screws that were closer to the middle of the chassis, I thought that maybe the binding is coming from the front portion of the gearbox, so I reassembled the gearbox with a 0.2mm shim stuck in between the front part (the part that is held together by the shock tower) and voila, rubbing is gone....

Still doesn't make sense though....since it is only rubbing on part of the rotation, that would tell me that my diff isn't assembled evenly, since that's the part doing the rotation.... but I double checked all 4 screws...they are in as tight as I feel comfortable with, and they all seem to be set the same...if I did manage to screw up assembling my diffs, it's odd that I would have screwed them both up the same way.... or, since both diff housings were ordered at the same time, maybe there is an imperfection in a batch of diff housings from the factory?

Curious if anyone knows of a gasket that is thinner than the stock paper thing, but still keeps the oil inside? If I can save some thickness there, I think I can correct the rubbing...

toothpick and some clear silicone from your local autoparts store! there is no pressure inside the gear box so it will work fine and shouldnt leak.

Do you mean "replace the paper diff gasket with a thin coating of silicon"? If you're thinking what I'm thinking, I think that just might work! I think I might be able to get some from work....it certainly wouldn't need much....but....will I ever be able to pull the diff apart again?

yup!! silicone wil not bond to anything, just pull it apart.

Little exacto cutting should break it open but only use a TINY bead around it. Or I don't think it's going to be "that" easy will it? It's a snug fit, and the suction power of the silicone is going to fight back.

But be aware about the gears. They are setup to mesh with that 1mm spacer. Closer and they felt a little grindy (with oil) last time I checked.

I'm using the Airtronics MX-3X, great radio, doubt I'll need another one. Feel is great, tons of features, including servo speed, and a quality feel.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...SJjTAod4R7mkg#

The receivers can be pricey though. I've lucked out an found a couple of nice used ones, cheap. The RX that comes w/ the radio is over $100 new.

That's what i'm talking about. Those prices are insaaaaaaaaaaane. And Great Planes: Tactic and Futaba wonders why it's getting SMOKED by Horizons: JR/Spektrum.

1 term: BND/BNF

Btw: Soon from GP= BNF modules for all radios to bind to their new Tactic Reciever. I'm not sure how much of that will roll over into their Cars. (they bought Axial last week) but I guess we'll see.