I never heard anybody tried this. I´m not sure if this is possible as the old arms are using a wider distance of the suspension blocks.

well i mite c if it can be done but its gona change the wheelbase if it can and mite be worse.

Just a FYI

I saw some of those Clear Diff Covers on ebay for 14 + shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=5933521603

JC

Thanks JC, I picked up a couple. I like the clear ones

OK, here's my carpet mod setup. My results weren't the best but the car was super fast and handled and worked great. The numbers/letters for shock/arm positions correspond with the Tamiya setup sheet. If you have any questions, fire away.

--Front:
camber == 1.5
toe == +1
caster == 4
droop == 3
front drive == oneway (yes, oneway on high bite carpet is great!!)
upper arm spacer == 2
upper arm position inner == 1
ride height == 5
bladder limiter == red urethane
piston == 3 hole
oil == AE 70wt
spring == AE purple
swaybar == yellow (medium)
f.susp mount == A
r.susp mount == A
f.susp mount spacer == 1mm
r.susp mount spacer == 0mm
upper shock position == 4
lower shock position == 2
wheel spacer == 2mm
tire == Trinity cyan (was using narrowed Jaco plaid but ran out)
diameter == 57mm glued


--Rear:
camber == -1.5
droop == 3
upper arm spacer == 0
upper arm position inner == 2
ride height == 5
bladder limiter == red urethane
piston == 3 hole
oil == AE 60wt
spring == AE blue
swaybar == yellow (medium)
f.susp mount == A
r.susp mount == C
f.susp mount spacer == 2mm
r.susp mount spacer == 2mm
upper shock position == 4
lower shock position == 2
upper arm position inner == 2
upper arm position outer == B
wheel spacer == 1.5mm
tire == Trinity magenta (was using narrowed Jaco double pink but ran out)
diameter == 57mm glued


--General:
body == Protoform Mazda Speed 6
battery == Pole Position
motor == Redline 9x1
pinion == 29
spur == 99
rollout == 22.87
front susp arm spacer == 2
rear susp arm spacer == 2

I tried the old 415/414 etc suspension on the evo IV, as an attempt to setup the car for foam tires on carpet. It's a good news bad news story. The good news is that the arms fit within the hinge pin blocks. The bad news is that it moves the front wheels furhter forward, which increases the angle the universal must achieve when turning. This creates a binding problem with the universals, which effectively reduces your turning circle. So bottom line, is that it did not work for me.



I am also trying the HPI pro 4 steering knuckle. It fits within the EVO 4 C hub, with a small spacer to reduce slop. However the arm on the steering knuckle causes the tierod to be moved closer to the front of the car where it attaches to the steering knuckle. This increases the ackerman (the difference between the angle of the outside tire and the inside tire). In my testing this seems to produce a high speed understeer and low speed oversteer. I found it difficult to be smooth in the corners given the significant change from understeer to oversteer. My next test is to move the front arms as far back as possible to reduce this ackerman. The wheelbase will be shorter, but I think it will produce a smoother transition from high to low speed cornering.

If that does not work then I will try the stock evo 4 suspension you with 26mm wide foam tires on the front and 2mm worth of spacers on the axle. It is s tight fit, but it appears to fit and appears to meet the 190mm requirement.

Good idea to fix the ackerman Martin. I don't have any of the Pro4 knuckles but is it possible to just drill another hole for the pivot ball closer to the kingpin?

I also have tried the old 415/414 suspension and had great results. The only modification nessicary was to remove about 3mm from the back of the front arm. This moves the front suspension back a little bit and produces steering very consistant with the lightweight suspension. I tried to put the 415 rear suspension on my car but did not have success. On the old suspension the upright has the bearing hole about 3mm lower than on the new suspension. This makes it very hard to get a ride height of 5mm with 57mm tires. It appears that the evo IV rear shock tower has holes drilled much lower than the 415's shock tower. This puts too much preload on the shocks and concurently raises the ride height. I am exparamenting with a 415 rear shock tower but, the mounting holes, connecting the tower to the bulkheads is drilled 1mm off on each side. Therefore I will have to enlarge the holes on the shock tower to properly mount it. Once this happens I should be able to get 5mm ride height with 2mm to spare.

As far ass the Evo IV on carpet It is awesome. When I first got the car on the carpet I was plagued by chassis tweak due to the panhead screws mounting it to the bulkheads. After countersinking it and using countersunk washers on the outermost 4 corners, there is absolutely no tweak. I was running the 415 suspension until this weekend when I stripped one of the front uprights and had to quickly put on the lightweight suspension to make my heat.

My carpet setup is very similar to that of a TC3 and everything seems to be working great. My car is extremely smooth and not twitchy. One might say it is even lazy however it has alot of high speed steering and low speed cornering. My dual rates are set at about 86% and I can still spin the car around if I find myself backward on the track. The tires I am exparamenting with are Mugen fast tyre 42R in the front and 37R in the back (both cut down to 26mm width). Make sure you take into acount the F or R of the tires. F gives you less traction (designed for front tire) and R gives you more traction (designed for rear).

Fact:
Even if people don't like how the car drives, it is still the coolest car on the market by far!!!!!!!!!

LOL!!!

Hey, what sorts of spur gears are people using in their Evo IVs??? Also, what's the best and fastest way to change the spur gear in this car??

What are the best parts by Tamiya or an aftermarket company to get in order to get the best out of the EVO IV speed wise and to protect against breakages ??

Fraz - I could not find a way to drill an additional hole, as there was no additional material. I could always cut up a shock tower and use that to extend the steering knuckle.

I got to try the evo 4 again last night with the change to wheelbase. I also changed a few other things. I used the 415 hinge pin blocks to lower the roll center. In addition I added a .07mm spacer under the rear hinge pin block at the front of the car. Finally I moved both the front and rear arms as far back as possible. The car is much more consistent know, and much more drivable.

I also ran my 415 with a diff last night (old suspension). I found this car to be a little more consistent than the evo 4. It just felt smoother and more predictable. The difference is not huge and may not show up on lap times.

Tires I used : Speedmind 35R on the rear and the New Speedmind Multi (35/55) on the front.

Hi

Some body can give me the ref of white diff for evo4?
Is it the same of Evo3?
Let me know
Thank you

Yes, it's the same as the Evo III.

53627 Tamiya TB Evolution III Reinforced Diff Joint

Cheers

Thank's a lot
Bye

Yes the Evo3 white halves will work. No matter what diff halves you use... clean the surface and CA the diff rings in place to prevent melting (I run 19t and mod). I have Jurgen diffs for my car and boy are they nice.