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Old 11-03-2004, 09:57 AM   #1726
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hugo
Nobody has a solution for me?
Hugo,

I think Tamiya will released the "hop-up" hinge-pin set soon, where you use the set screw to pin down the hinge-pins instead of screwing it in the arms. When I put the LW suspension on my TRF415, even when it was brand new, it had quite a bit of slop. I put on some Square aluminum rear uprights and front steering knuckles, and it helped a bit (it really helped in the front as far as reducing the slop). Some of the slop is in the hub carriers, the bearings will move up and down slightly inside them (even when new) which equates to quite a bit of slop when you put the wheels on. I think I also found an aftermarket company that makes a hing-pin set for the EVO4 and the LW suspension (using the setscrew style)

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Old 11-03-2004, 12:05 PM   #1727
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedTech
Hugo,

I think Tamiya will released the "hop-up" hinge-pin set soon, where you use the set screw to pin down the hinge-pins instead of screwing it in the arms. When I put the LW suspension on my TRF415, even when it was brand new, it had quite a bit of slop. I put on some Square aluminum rear uprights and front steering knuckles, and it helped a bit (it really helped in the front as far as reducing the slop). Some of the slop is in the hub carriers, the bearings will move up and down slightly inside them (even when new) which equates to quite a bit of slop when you put the wheels on. I think I also found an aftermarket company that makes a hing-pin set for the EVO4 and the LW suspension (using the setscrew style)

Steve Wang
My son sheared the head off one of the front 22mm pins whilst he was building the second EVO4 kit. I was in NY at the time on holiday.

I came back and managed to remove the pin, but at the time there weren't any spares available.

I ended up drilling through the arm and upright at 3mm and then used a TA04 l/w shaft, complete with circlips on the end. It was a bit stiff, but survived four whole meetings until spares became available. It would have been better maybe if the arm had been drilled at 3.2mm.
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Old 11-03-2004, 05:54 PM   #1728
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Just put the pin in and use a grub screw in the hole in the bottom of the upright!
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:08 PM   #1729
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Default new pieces

just a quick pic of some new pieces i just put on:

Square heatsink, Square rear cup, and transparent blue gear covers!
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:11 PM   #1730
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Quote:
Originally posted by espeng
Ahh! have anyone actually tried this?
Yes, I've tried it because I also broke the steering carbon plate a little while back. I've been running my car like that ever since. I haven't done an order with R10 to get a replacement one yet but if you email them at [email protected] and quote the number that sits with the carbon plate in the parts list in the back part of the manual, then they should be able to get it for you.

But anyway, I have tried the turnbuckle solution and it works absolutely fine. I haven't really adjusted the turnbuckle at all from the sort of length that the carbon plate was, but I will have a play soon.

In order to do it, I used a ball end from the toe points from the F201 because they have a hole on the top of the ball end. I then used ball nuts on the bottom of the aluminium steering, and screwed it all together with a long fine threaded countersunk screw from the bottom up. I could get some photos for anyone if they wanted to see it.
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Old 11-04-2004, 05:21 AM   #1731
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Default Re: Suspension slop

Quote:
Originally posted by tamiyarcracer
Dave Jun had a good solution for the slop on the TA03
Not exactly sure of all the details, but it was to pu CA in the hole with the pin, then after the CA set, you drive the pin out. I tried it onse, but the pin was very hard to drive out, then once I assembled it, the suspension was stiff. I think that you need to coat the pin with something before using the CA, but not sure of what that would be.

are you sure Dave Jun said that ? I mean gluing CA into hinge pin holes ? this is a joke right ?

btw tamiyarcracer : do you race in alisio viejo ? I mean tamiya race track?
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Old 11-04-2004, 05:23 AM   #1732
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Quote:
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Yes, I've tried it because I also broke the steering carbon plate a little while back. I've been running my car like that ever since. I haven't done an order with R10 to get a replacement one yet but if you email them at [email protected] and quote the number that sits with the carbon plate in the parts list in the back part of the manual, then they should be able to get it for you.

But anyway, I have tried the turnbuckle solution and it works absolutely fine. I haven't really adjusted the turnbuckle at all from the sort of length that the carbon plate was, but I will have a play soon.

In order to do it, I used a ball end from the toe points from the F201 because they have a hole on the top of the ball end. I then used ball nuts on the bottom of the aluminium steering, and screwed it all together with a long fine threaded countersunk screw from the bottom up. I could get some photos for anyone if they wanted to see it.
I would love to see pictures! Do you have the part# for the toe points from the F201? I'm gonna have this solution as a backup if my now glued carbon plate brakes again.
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Old 11-04-2004, 05:26 AM   #1733
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Default Re: Re: Suspension slop

Quote:
Originally posted by asw7576
are you sure Dave Jun said that ? I mean gluing CA into hinge pin holes ? this is a joke right ?

btw tamiyarcracer : do you race in alisio viejo ? I mean tamiya race track?
Yes he is right in what he says, its a tip from the old TA03 days. Rick
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Old 11-04-2004, 07:06 PM   #1734
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Default Re: Re: Suspension slop

I'm From the Seattle area. I don't race at the Tamiya trck regularly, I have raced there 6 or so times for the Nationals / North American Finals. Oh And I won this year.
But that was something that Daid Jun did way back when to the TA03. I didn't hear it from his mouth, but I have heard many people say he suggested it. He glued the pin in and tapped it out after the glue dried. takes out all the Slop. Difuser did this to help with all the slop in his mini winning M04L in 2002.

Quote:
Originally posted by asw7576
are you sure Dave Jun said that ? I mean gluing CA into hinge pin holes ? this is a joke right ?

btw tamiyarcracer : do you race in alisio viejo ? I mean tamiya race track?
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Old 11-04-2004, 07:20 PM   #1735
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Ive tried this. Worked really well before. I just coated the hinge pin with shock oil. Then I put slow cure CA or epoxy down the bore of the bulkhead. Then I slipped the hinge pin through and let it dry. It worked awesome.

-Korey
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Old 11-05-2004, 07:06 AM   #1736
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Quote:
Originally posted by espeng
I would love to see pictures! Do you have the part# for the toe points from the F201? I'm gonna have this solution as a backup if my now glued carbon plate brakes again.
Okay, for sure.

I am at my grilfriends place at the moment, but once I get home, I'll take some photos and upload them to this thread.
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Old 11-07-2004, 10:24 AM   #1737
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Quote:
Originally posted by dsrbltoys
Just put the pin in and use a grub screw in the hole in the bottom of the upright!
I don't think you can pin the existing hinge-pins, because currently it is screwed into the arms, which means the hub carriers are the parts that are rotating around the hinge-pins when the suspension is in motion. If you pin it with a set screw on the stock hinge-pins, you'll bind up the suspension. You have to have hinge-pins with no threads at each end, then you can pin it with a set screw to the hub carrier (now the hinge-pins will be rotating inside the arms).

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Old 11-07-2004, 01:17 PM   #1738
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How thick are standart anti roll bars that comes in the kit?
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Old 11-07-2004, 06:03 PM   #1739
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Sorry, Bad post
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Last edited by F. Alonso; 11-07-2004 at 06:09 PM.
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Old 11-07-2004, 06:07 PM   #1740
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Hey Guys,

I have enclosed two pictures of the Turnbuckle attached to the two aluminium steering arms. The first you will see is the actual turnbuckle attached to the steering arm. I'm sorry that its blurry guys, couldn't be assed getting a tripod but if need be, i'll take another one.

The second one is more for Espeng, as he wanted to know what the F201 Ball End looked like. You can see that it has a hole through the top of it so you can put a screw through it, which is whats required to do the turnbuckle mod.

If you want any more details, feel free to ask.
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File Type: jpg evo4turnbuckle.jpg (107.1 KB, 161 views)
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