I will have my LCD box with me, but you might need a laptop to flash new software with it.

Thanks mayor, I forgot that's what you are running. I'll have my laptop with me no matter what.

Thanks Howard.
i dont know about "uncatchable" though. Maybe "pretty fast".

This is my 22. Cap on side, next to batt on chassis using dble sided tape.

As for settings without boost. I would #9 at max timing. and start at 10-11 deg physical on motor. Gearing 76/28-30? Watch temps. Gear for decent punch on infield and top speed at 3/4 length on the longest straight.

I'll be testing 13.5 next week at CRCRC using a 13.5 V3 and 323 with this setup.
9-48
10-6 deg./0.1s
12-16
13-3000
14-0
15-350
I ran this during the summer a few times on a outdoor track. Geared 76/26-27. I've since gone to a 78 spur on my car with 17.5 boosted and am going to adjust it accordingly.

I just received my speed passion rs2, I got it for the girlfriend. I read the manual, cut off the silly plug the esc comes with and soldered on a xt-60. Plugged in a cheap 2s lipo and took it for a spin, the power delivery seemed a little odd. But I figured it was a $160 truck, and not a $160 esc so honestly I didn't expect it to be as quick as it was. I checked the temps after about 5 minutes of running up and down the driveway, had 115°f on the motor and 105°f on the esc. I was thinking about gearing up. Then me and the girlfriend went to my buddy's track to see how well it flies. When we got there I plugged a fresh 2s lipo and handed her the controls. I checked the temps after 5 minutes again, both were around 100°f. Set it back on the track , she takes two more laps and the truck just simply stopped moving. Walk up to the truck, notice that the fan wasn't running. Pulled the body off, the fan was to hot to touch And it had shorted itself. But the esc was still cool. After troubleshooting I've determined that every component is good except for the esc and the fan. I tried many times to set the endpoint, the motor chimes and it acts like it excepts it. But nothing. Any advice for me? Anything I should try?

Hey got a couple questions. Read most of this thread, didn't see the answers. Got a Short Course Master ESC and a 17.5. Haven't powered it up yet. Anyways was wondering what setting, if any, would be used for a "blinky" mode? The track i race at has a no timing, or boost in stock class so i am trying to figure out how to do that. Also I got the LCD programming box, but I see the Short course master ESC is not listed as supported. is this true or am i missing something? Hopefully I will have everything soldered up in a couple hours. thanks for any help!!

Leave it alone, stock settings, I think you should be good.

How are the MMM motors holding up. Anyone had a rotor come apart.

cool thanks for the help.....how about the LCD box? anyone know?

well got it all wired up. First off i love this system(Short Course Master). A little sad i bought the LCD box and doesn't work, but that is my fault. Didn't read everything when i ordered it. Not a bog deal though cause i forsee me getting a GT2 in the near future for another build i am planning on doing.

really the only thing that could be better is wiring from the motor to the ESC. there was none in my kit. just the SP connector. but no wire to solder to the motor. not a big deal cause i was going to the hobby shop to get bullet connectors anyways( gonna be switching out 17.5 to 11.5 for stock then mod class).

Anyways as i said, very impressed with the system. cant wait to get it on the track!

Thanks for the starting points, they really helped out. I'm still confused on the DRRS setting. Is this like a current control, or some sort of expo affecting the throttle curve?

bump

just installed the 1/8th motor combo. 2200kv system and the motor can is held together by 3 screws on each end. they came loose several times even after thread lock was applied. (very bad design) also the motor is smaller then most 1/8th motors? couldn't run it very long due to the screws coming loose may have to send it in for warranty im assuming because whats the point if you cannot even get a main out of the motor?

i will admit the system worked awesome and the motor does have alot of power despite it's petite size

It's punch control. 1 is less power and 9 is the most. Use lower numbers with less traction and higher ones with more traction. So yes, you are right, kind of like current control or expo affecting the throttle curve.

How do I get more instant, hard braking instead of the soft braking I have now?

Or somethine like the more I puch the trigger the more brakes I have?