Best you can do probably is read this thread. Basic primer: 1) physical timing at the motor. Depends on your motor, you just have to play with it. This means timing is advanced, and is static, through the entire powerband. In other words, it's 10 deg at 100 RPM, and it's still 10 deg at 10,000 RPM; 2) Boost- This is timing advance, but it's dynamic, so it increases as your RPM increases, and is added to the motor timing. Then, you have options for what RPM the boost begins at, how quickly it feeds in (per increase in RPM); 3) Turbo- This is additional timing advance, but it only kicks in at full throttle. Then, you have options for delay (how long after you hit full throttle before it kicks in) and how fast it feeds in once it starts. It's fun to play with this stuff once you begin to understand how it works. Your best bet is to check SP site and find a setup similar to the motor and vehicle you're using. Start there, and then change one thing at a time and see how the car reacts. Monitor speedo, motor, and battery temps to make sure you're not over stressing the system.

Small amount of GT2 PRO and GT2 LPF are back in stock at SP web.....get it before they are gone again.

http://www.speedpassion.net/us/index.asp

update.
i stopped by the track and was asking a few questions about the short course series. was explained to me that i could run timing 17.5 or non time 13.5. to work around my woes of learning about the timing and stuff, i picked up a ballistic 13.5 and input the no timing software from the speed passion software on the computer. started with a wimpy gear and ran it up and down the street hard with 1 minute intervals to test (hand test as i dont have a temp guage yet) for a 10 minute period. then upped the pinion and repeated till i got what felt like a "good to go" temp. (it felt a little less temperature then my heli motors get)
but by the time of stopping testing and being satisfied, it was dark. then i noticed what is to be a question and assistance if i may ask

i see no blinking light in the dark. what do i do to get the blinking light going or do i take the lcd with me and show tech and display "see, no timing"

(1) Blinking light is at the bottom of the ESC case
(2) Tech must see the blinking light from ESC.....I doubt they will care about you showing them from the laptop or LCD
(3) 508_no_timing software is what you should upload
(4) Blinking light might NOT be the brightest ever, but it does blink
(5) After installed the 508, you must recalibrate the ESC/Radio in order to get that blinking light blink....
(6) Do you see the yellow light..?
(7) Does the green light ON when you are WOT?

What SP ESC are you using...?

3. yes 508
4. ok on locaion
5. thanks i didnt do that after i swapped software

seeing the blinky light now
edit: its prostock 2.1
thanks solara

Looking at a LPF for my B44.1 to run in a sportsman 13.5 class. Does this ESC have dynamic timing adjustments straight from the box or does one need different firmware installed via the optional LCD box. Thanks

Your LPF should have dynamic timing that you can adjust via the box that came with the programming card (called AMTS and I assumed your LPF is bought brand new, not used from someone else)...but in the future, you should purchase the LCD box so you have the option to use other software like BOOST or no timing.

I haven't bought the ESC yet....just researching and yes, I would be buying in new. Kinda confused cause by reviewing the downloadable instructions from SP, AMTS looks like a static timing adjustment and not a "dynamic" adjustment. Looks like SP calls dynamic timing " supercharger". Can I access this supercharger function via the included programming box. Thanks

OK...I think I've got your wording wrong, my bad. If you are talking about the supercharger, we are all related that to something called BOOST.

If you are talking about BOOST...then no. You must purchase the LCD programmer box, unload the software (205g) from the ESC originally, upload the 323stock software and start your nightmare....

You must know what you are doing when you are dealing with boost...and we are very glad ROAR is fading out the boost software and let the no timing class take over.

But all in all...all of our GT series ESC can work with the boost software, just need the LCD card and a computer to get that setup.

Thank you sir......I'am a strong advocate of non-boosted stock racing myself however this ESC would be ran at two different tracks. One that ran a straight mod class another running the 13.5 sportsman class. Looking for a ESC to do both so I could run the spec class then turn around and run with a small amount of boost on the 13.5 to run the mod class. Both tracks are of the smaller indoor type and large amounts of power are not needed.

You can do that no problem. However, if the stock class requires a flashing light, you will have to load blinky software, then load other software to run boost in other class. Not hard, takes 5 minutes.

Yupe...the entire line up of GT series will work and covered all your need.

Hi Guys,

Has anyone got good setting for base starting point for my 2wd.
Will be running the GT Pro 2.1 & 10.5t SP V3 motor 27t pinion.

The track will be cork stlye services which is low-med grip.

Just wondering if anyone can let me know which software to run & settings would be great.
I have put on for now the setup from Speed Passion for 9.5t motor for now seems ok but worried I may be running it wrong as it does seem to have the mid-top like few other guys

Thanks

I would suggest running the 323 stock software and turning the boost and turbo functions way down to start. As well as the DRRS option (It works like an initial launch mode). Start at 1 or 2 for DRRS. That's because of the low grip. Turn boost and timing up about 10 at a time and see how it feels.

Gear it around 23/78 for a buggy and work from there. You could probably add a couple teeth to the pinion, to be honest.

What would be a good esc/motor combo to run in 17.5 short course truck? Sensored, boost, turbo and programmable, any suggestions? AE sc10 truck. Thanks