Still looking for some help here. I plan on calling up the company today to speak to someone. The problem degraded further this weekend. I set TQ went out for my Main and the motor never rain. I turned on the esc, lights looked normal, steering worked fine, no throttle. It once again turned itself off after the heat races and after the second heat race I tried to turn it back on so the motor fan could run to cool it down and it gave a beeping sound and a rapidly flashing red light (if I remember correctly) and then it wouldn't turn off. I unplugged it and ran out for my next race. After that, it never worked. Yesterday at home I soldered the motor to a different ESC and it worked, then I soldered a different motor to the Reventon Pro and that motor wouldn't turn either. So its obviously the ESC. I like the ESC, but its obviously had something wrong with it since I bought it brand new a month ago. Hopefully I get some Warranty help, but in the mean time I need something to race with, so I guess Im stuck using a sh!tty Viper for a few weeks.

I have a 17.5 MMM setup with the high torque rotor and the green timing board. If you are hitting 160 after a full run to me at least that is about where I would draw the line.

By stock software, are you running blinky or a boosted class? In blinky, since you are only putting timing on the can I usually start by setting up my vehicle to top out towards the end of the longest straight, then adjust gearing for temps.

With boosted, I usually go with a big spur setup and boost at a given RPM range for the top end. Out here on the tight track it was common on say a RC10B4 to run a 87T spur with a 18T pinion when boosting a 17.5. When I was running blinky on the same vehicle, I think I was down to a 72T spur or so, and much bigger pinion.

Question for you, how many shims did you use on the rotor?

Please contact our office...1-888-928-1328 and if your ESC is purchased new and is within 90 days, we will provide the warranty service of it...

I own 4 tekin rs pro's and decided to snag a SP rev pro. My question is I typically run 3 16v 470uf in parallel for more punch and cooler temps on tekin what's the advantage of the 2200 if 25v cap? And what is the ESR of the stock cap? Also (admittedly I didn't do much research other than the reviews and seemingly very good tech support) are these ROAR legal? And the hackmoto 10.5t motor says 110F max temp? Anyone used that motor? And at what temps?Also I understand the fan is to keep temps low on ESC is there a need for the fan? Or will will it be based on how I run? Just curious about all these items before I solder it up into a race buggy. On Rs pro with 25/78 gearing on 10.5t tekin redline with 25 boost and 10 degree end bell in kyosho rb5 motor temps are at 130 @ 8mins. How can I setup everything to mirror this setups performance.

Anyway sorry if these are noob questions and for long post of questions.

Thanks in advance
New and excited owner
Gary

I won't answer the first few questions as I am unsure. but, yes, ROAR legal, not sure about that motor either but 110F sounds REALLY low for a limit. maybe that should be C? would make more sense.
Fan is probably not needed on any 2wd vehicle. 4wd cars/trucks should probably use it. Just check temps often.
try the mod2 firmware first. Crank up the timing, set DRRS (punch)at about 5 and play with it. Temps will probably be about the same as what you see now. If you want to try more speed you can gear down a couple teeth on the pinion and try Stock1 firmware with the hybrid boost. It will kick in at full throttle and you can set it to be pretty aggressive. That way you will get the smoother feel of a 10.5 but top end of a much faster motor.

The SP speedos are WAY smoother feeling than the tekin so you will enjoy that. should be much easier to drive and get faster and more consistent lap times.
enjoy!

My opinion was the same, I wouldn't expect to need the fan. I ran mine without the fan and I never saw high ESC temps, it barely got over 110*F and the outside temps were already in the 90's. However, I was on the phone with tech support recently and the guy stressed to me that all electronics will work better the cooler they are and you should just put the fan on it and use it. I am sending mine in for a warranty RMA and when I get the new one back I will be running the fan.

For reference, I run a 2WD chassis with Stock0 "blinky" program and an "outlaw" 17.5 motor on Dirt Oval.

Bad idea to run without a cap on the esc? What are the risks?



I own 4 tekin rs pro's and decided to snag a SP rev pro. My question is I typically run 3 16v 470uf in series for more punch and cooler temps on tekin what's the advantage of the 2200 if 25v cap? And what is the ESR of the stock cap? Also (admittedly I didn't do much research other than the reviews and seemingly very good tech support) are these ROAR legal? And the hackmoto 10.5t motor says 110F max temp? Anyone used that motor? And at what temps?Also I understand the fan is to keep temps low on ESC is there a need for the fan? Or will will it be based on how I run? Just curious about all these items before I solder it up into a race buggy. On Rs pro with 25/78 gearing on 10.5t tekin redline with 25 boost and 10 degree end bell in kyosho rb5 motor temps are at 130 @ 8mins. How can I setup everything to mirror this setups performance.

Anyway sorry if these are noob questions and for long post of questions.

Thanks in advance
New and excited owner
Gary[/QUOTE]

Caps you will need size shape and ESR seem to be bigger issue. High Equivalent Series Resistance will build heat. I do know that without the cap it runs hotter but also with caps it makes the voltage lead current because the current/amperage has to build past the storage point to breakthrough. However before current breaks through there is a small voltage spike since current is lagging. once at capacity it has the amperage draw on demand when you hit throttle. Or at least that's my vague understanding. I was trying to figure out if the ESR was lower or higher then the capacitors I soldered in parallel on perf board as an "octane booster" I just made my own. My familiarity is only with Tekin so I'm seeking an answer kinda like I have heard team Tekin drivers running 2 Tekin power caps. What are SP drivers using? I know everyone guards secrets but also I notice this is a sharing hobby/sport dependant on multiple things besides electronics. cheers thanks for the answers useful and knowledgeable thread I plan to keep this one subscribed.

Also does the 2200uf cap attribute to the smoothness? Or is it proprietary software or firmware or hardware. Maybe I'll look around at 3 phase brushless AC motors to find out the difference in placing caps vs a soft starter (maybe weight). Most of this was spurred on by branching out of my comfort zone instead of being a Tekin fanboy


Gary

Has anyone tried any of the new blaze sensored motors?
How are they competitvely to Tekins?

This user has some posts regarding the new 1/8 Blaze motors. They are great.

Will we see:

- Blaze 1/8 motors in Kvs more suited to 4S 1/8 usage, sensored design (say 1900Kv, 2100Kv, etc)
- A Silver Arrow V3 ESC that has a better BEC that can handle 4x4 SCT usage like the Tekin RX8, smaller footprint?

Question:

- What happened to the Cirtrix R8 speed control?

would you guys recommend blinky or mod software in a 4x4 sct with a 550 can motor?

personally, assuming a 2 pole 550 can motor I would say mod software. Some of the setups on the speed passion site use the mod software I believe and have timing setting listed for a 550 sized motor with the SCTE.

Me personally on the SC10 4x4 using a GT2.0 Pro (heck of an esc) with a 550 2pole and 540 4 pole motor, I was using either the stock or mod software. Timing at the higher RPM ranges worked well to get more top end speed, and went with a smaller pinion for torque. Had cooler temps than just trying to use a bigger pinion overall with no timing.

im running the stock program on the esc,i am going to go down on my spur to 78 i was running 81(desc210).i used 2 shims one top and one bottom.

tnks Dennis from sp fixing my problem.

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