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Old 08-17-2013 | 01:38 PM
  #8716  
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Originally Posted by tony montana
have a issue with my motor. its the 8.5. Was runnign fine earlier in the day but seemed like it was cogging a little after I crashed. So when I started the main it was good then I lost power to the motor, then it would go again then it started cogging and I pulled it off the track. Got back to the pits and I tryed it again and all it did was make like a beep nosie coming from the esc and I could feel the motor try to turn and it started cogging and again and then it stopped and I seen just a little smoke come from it. What could be the issue? Im very picky about my equipment and Im running blinky and with bascially all the standard esc settings. Motor wasnt hot and the esc was not either. runnning it in a 22 buggy with the stock spur with a 23 pinion. If the motor is bad what is the warranty with the motor? I have not had it a year yet.
Sounds like you damaged your sensor wire in the crash. Try putting a new one on
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Old 08-17-2013 | 01:40 PM
  #8717  
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Thanks for the info. Will have to give the manual a go through to understand what the terms mean in Viper speak lol.
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Old 08-17-2013 | 01:43 PM
  #8718  
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Could someone here tell me what's up with the viper VSE motors?
I cannot find any info on these motors? Are they still for sale? How do they perform?
I know they are two pole and larger than most 1/8 motors, but it's almost like no one ever dared to try one, what gives?
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Old 08-17-2013 | 05:02 PM
  #8719  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Thanks for the info. Will have to give the manual a go through to understand what the terms mean in Viper speak lol.
Keep the manual handy in your pit box . It explains all of the adjustments very well and I reference it often. Heck, if I can understand it, they made it VERY easy to understand .
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Old 08-17-2013 | 06:42 PM
  #8720  
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This has nothing to do with Viper, or RC for that fact, but if you can't appreciate these lunatics, then you have something wrong with you!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOuh6D5Q_4I
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Old 08-17-2013 | 06:43 PM
  #8721  
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ok so I messed with my car after getting home from the track. The sensor wire was kind of on a bad bend the way I have it mounted but still have the same one on there just changed the bend. The motor seems ok and no cogging and runs fine but.... it seems like I have 10-15 percent drag brake on but Im not running any drag brake. Took off the pinion and the tranny is free nothing binding. Sugesstions?
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Old 08-17-2013 | 07:42 PM
  #8722  
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I had a buddy who had similar symptoms and his rotor eventually ended up in a million pieces in his hand. You might want to take the motor out and give it a closer look.
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Old 08-18-2013 | 07:15 AM
  #8723  
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tony - if you are used to taking them apart (not everyone is), take the motor apart and look at the rotor, it should have no marks, scratches, grooves or anything on it. Second, look at the wiring in the motor, it should be copper color, its starts out as shiny, gets a little duller from heat as you use it. If it looks dark brown or black (even on just one side), it means at some point the motor got too hot. Either one these can give the same effect because the magnets in the motor are not allowing it to spin properly.

some guy - VSE was our first attempt at 1/8 motors and we really had 2 issues. 1) we were coming out with 2 pole motors when everyone was making 4 pole motors. 2) we got bad feedback on how the motors performed in testing. Sold some to the public and it was not good. We only sold a few, some had issues. We shelved the whole project and focused on 1/10 stuff.

Now with the VTX8 such a success, it was time to re-visit 1/8 motors. We have spent the better part of the last year running the motors, to make sure they were fast, consistent, and durable. Even now as we are doing production, we keep testing and found another thing we are "changing" in the final design before the public gets them. Our goal is to make a product that is fast and durable for you. We want it right the first time, not sell it make money and figure it out later.
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Old 08-18-2013 | 01:34 PM
  #8724  
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Originally Posted by nikos2002
tony - if you are used to taking them apart (not everyone is), take the motor apart and look at the rotor, it should have no marks, scratches, grooves or anything on it. Second, look at the wiring in the motor, it should be copper color, its starts out as shiny, gets a little duller from heat as you use it. If it looks dark brown or black (even on just one side), it means at some point the motor got too hot. Either one these can give the same effect because the magnets in the motor are not allowing it to spin properly.

some guy - VSE was our first attempt at 1/8 motors and we really had 2 issues. 1) we were coming out with 2 pole motors when everyone was making 4 pole motors. 2) we got bad feedback on how the motors performed in testing. Sold some to the public and it was not good. We only sold a few, some had issues. We shelved the whole project and focused on 1/10 stuff.

Now with the VTX8 such a success, it was time to re-visit 1/8 motors. We have spent the better part of the last year running the motors, to make sure they were fast, consistent, and durable. Even now as we are doing production, we keep testing and found another thing we are "changing" in the final design before the public gets them. Our goal is to make a product that is fast and durable for you. We want it right the first time, not sell it make money and figure it out later.
For these new motors, will they have a method of retaining the sensor wire like some people sell aftermarket for your other motors? Since the VTX8 is sensored only, some extra insurance there would be nice.
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Old 08-18-2013 | 05:00 PM
  #8725  
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I was looking at purchasing the VTX4/4500kv 550 4 pole combo for my losi 10scte. I considered the VTX8, but I want to be able to use the senseless motors I already have. What do you guys think about this combo?
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Old 08-18-2013 | 10:23 PM
  #8726  
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I was able to run my Caster racing Rapture 4wd sct with the Viper 4 pole motor and vtx8 esc. After gearing the motor down again and gave the sct more steering the truck was amazing... Here is my A2 run and as I did get 3rd I was only about 1 sec behind 1st
This motor has SO much power that I now have a 12t on it, I was running a 4600kv tenshock with a 14t and this Viper 4500kv still has more power then the tenshock and I have my punch at 80%
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Old 08-18-2013 | 11:54 PM
  #8727  
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I picked up a VTX8 and Tekin 1900kv motor to run on 4s in my Mugen techno v4 buggy. I read a couple hundred pages of this thread and did not see anyone post any settings for this combo.

Whats a good place to start? I'm running 14/46 with 80 punch and the rest standard settings on profile 1. It runs amazingly well and stays nice and cool. Motor/esc both around 110.

The brakes were a bit weak to start, and I've turned them up to 100 and played with the PWM some to get it to feel better.
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Old 08-19-2013 | 03:41 AM
  #8728  
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That's the combo I have in my Tekno buggy too. I haven't mucked around too much, I'm not sure what my settings are for a lot of things.

I have punch at 100 but I am thinking of turning it down to 80 as I can take the big jumps at my track too easily now, when I line it up and get everything right.

Profile 1 is a good place to start, just set your LVC to suit.
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Old 08-19-2013 | 03:43 AM
  #8729  
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A VTX8 squeezed into a SC10 4x4. Looks like the receiver box belongs on the right side
Viper RC --imag0320.jpg Viper RC --imag0321.jpg
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Old 08-19-2013 | 04:50 AM
  #8730  
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Originally Posted by simon021
I picked up a VTX8 and Tekin 1900kv motor to run on 4s in my Mugen techno v4 buggy. I read a couple hundred pages of this thread and did not see anyone post any settings for this combo.

Whats a good place to start? I'm running 14/46 with 80 punch and the rest standard settings on profile 1. It runs amazingly well and stays nice and cool. Motor/esc both around 110.

The brakes were a bit weak to start, and I've turned them up to 100 and played with the PWM some to get it to feel better.
I ran the 2050 geared 15-46. With that motor you want to be a tooth higher. Gear 15 to start and likely 16. Forward PWM should be around 12000-16000 range. Set punch around 60%. This will give you smooth power and should help prevent wheel spin, which in turn should give better lap times and better tire wear. If you feel that you can't pitch the car in the air well enough, increase punch 5% at a time until you get it where you like it.

Make sure forward power is set at 100, and as always keep an eye on your motor temps until you are confident that you have the proper gearing.
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