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VF8 - 2700kv, 2100kv, 1900kv
VF4 - 4500kv, 4000kv |
Originally Posted by boock999
(Post 12246986)
How do you mount the vtx8? Is it double stick or is there a way to bolt it to the esc tray? Any pics of the bottom?
Its used for gyros and electronics in RC Helicopters. Great stuff never comes loose, major impact absorption and when you do pry it loose you can wash it off and reuse it in some instances. It is pricey at $13 a sheet, but after having multiple ESC's fry from hard impacts from jumps or people running over you during my years in RC its pennies on the dollar to protect electronics. |
Originally Posted by nikos2002
(Post 12247301)
VF8 - 2700kv, 2100kv, 1900kv
VF4 - 4500kv, 4000kv |
any drivers using viper at the worlds?
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Originally Posted by OMG23RC
(Post 12247817)
any drivers using viper at the worlds?
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boock - only one style and the 3 versions right now.
OMG - Bob got it covered, Lee and Travis are the only two sponsored drivers we are aware of, unless someone less decides to try before the event - we have a few months. Sad about the motors, but we know our speedos can make any motor look good!!! :sneaky::nod::nod: |
Originally Posted by xrayrc
(Post 12246227)
if looking for a little more top end and smoothness try raising the PWM but stock profile feels great. all I did was lower brake pwm 1 notch and raise throttle pwm 1 notch as well.
good luck and enjoy the speed, quality, and reliability that viper has to offer....
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
(Post 12246265)
What exactly are you looking for? More top? more bottom? more overall?
Also jot down what your current settings are, current car, and current gearing. Then we can help you fine tune :) |
Originally Posted by boock999
(Post 12246986)
How do you mount the vtx8? Is it double stick or is there a way to bolt it to the esc tray? Any pics of the bottom?
https://bnnn72.ssl-cdn.s.mel.securei...0d6f59809b.jpg |
Originally Posted by H0LESH0T
(Post 12248395)
ESC settings are just fully standard. Haven't adjusted any settings yet. Probably after more low-mid more than top.
Things that will help: lower the throttle freq (PWM) increase the punch make sure forward power is turned up adjust gearing / slipper (if applicable) properly Also we will be releasing more info on the new Pro 9 caps soon too :sneaky: |
On the vtx 10r 7.5 motor where is o degree timing it starts at 15 goes to 45 if i keep turning right past the 15 till it stops is that 0 degree's my stuff is always running warmer than i think it should,out of the box it was setup on 30 degree's never once thought about checking it on first run till i smelt bandaids,feel like it should have been set lower from manufacturer to avoid the death of the motor on first run just a little food for thought for the engineers who decided to shipp out that way,i know of many others this has happened to also. So for everyone thats gonna say you should have checked that before running the motor,make that statement in manual and it might not happen
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techpro - the timing actually is not that bad overall - compared to some other companies, who design an advance into the sensor, the may use low numbers on the can, but you have to know that its already advanced a certain amount. Parts of our motor are epoxy dipped after assembly, sometimes that epoxy will burn off - people think the motor is failing, its not - as long as its still very easy to spin by hand.
Another thing we find is that our motors are about turn off of the "rpm" style motors some other companies make, so that can also be a difference in overall performance as well. Its all a piece of the puzzle to find the right set up. PM me with your esc settings and gearing, we'll look and see if there is anything else we can do to get you going quicker. |
Originally Posted by techpro
(Post 12249588)
On the vtx 10r 7.5 motor where is o degree timing it starts at 15 goes to 45 if i keep turning right past the 15 till it stops is that 0 degree's my stuff is always running warmer than i think it should,out of the box it was setup on 30 degree's never once thought about checking it on first run till i smelt bandaids,feel like it should have been set lower from manufacturer to avoid the death of the motor on first run just a little food for thought for the engineers who decided to shipp out that way,i know of many others this has happened to also. So for everyone thats gonna say you should have checked that before running the motor,make that statement in manual and it might not happen
on my 17.5 motors I run 45 deg on the can (on average) depending on the rotor. And you mentioned that it's running warmer than you think it should. What exactly is the temp? What's the ambient temp? What vehicle? Settings? It's really hard to troubleshoot temp issues because of so many variables, but I'll try to help ya the best I can. |
Originally Posted by H0LESH0T
(Post 12248406)
I recently just mounted mine with mounting tape from hardware store. I said to 50% bond after 20 minutes, 90% after 24 hours and 100% after 72 hours. ESC won't even move or wobble.
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3M Velcro for the win. I just put together my spare buggy and once again stuck the VTX8 and receiver down with 3M Velcro. I even use it to hold the power button down on the side of the fan cage as there is so little room in the EB48.
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
(Post 12249725)
on my mod motors (7.5 and 8.5) I run 30 deg on the can.
on my 17.5 motors I run 45 deg on the can (on average) depending on the rotor. And you mentioned that it's running warmer than you think it should. What exactly is the temp? What's the ambient temp? What vehicle? Settings? It's really hard to troubleshoot temp issues because of so many variables, but I'll try to help ya the best I can. |
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