I just soldered up a new motor and had the same issue. It was because my iron wasn't hot enough. I let it heat up more, and then properly tinned the motor tab. Once it cooled down, it was fine. Just make sure you don't have a cold solder joint. If it looks dull, it's 'cold' and needs to be cleaned up.

Is this what you were talking about?

So whats the proper way to solder the VST motor I asked before and got no reply? I feel mine could be soldered better and my iron is powerful enough.

Once the iron is hot, just take a little solder and coat the tab. You'll see it dry shiny. Coat the end of the wire with solder, same deal... make sure it's shiney.

Clean the iron, let it heat all the way back up, meet the wire to the tab, apply iron, watch melt into place. remove iron, hold until solid.

That's exactly what I do anyway.

when can we expect any new 1/10 motors? i've heard rumors of a black edition motor. any truth to this?

When we have a better understand what the sanctioning body is going to do.

But we are always developing something

Bob has a good description, I don't know if this helps but I took this picture at Snowbirds - its not actually my best solder job, but I hope it helps show you.

Yes that has to be it, I ordered a new 60 watt last night had a 40 watt from radio shack that wasn't getting hot. Thanks guys.

First day out with my new Tekno Eb48 and brand new Viper VTX8. Tekno was doing awesome . . . Viper didn't fair so well. About the 6th pack in the VTX8 when up in flames.

Anyone else seen this?

some clearer pics. the car was stationary when it began smoking.

Matt

Ouch.

Dang! That's really ugly.

I seen a few esc's go up in flames lately and they wernt vipers.

I decided to resolder my motor wires. I might of went a bit overboard on the solder but I like it better now. Best to tin both sides of the post first I think. I did the middle (B) wire first then the other 2. Not an expert but im getting better lol.

Edit.

Krafcik - check your PM do some questions.

thanks ROAR way to go!