I have allways understood that also but nick posted that it would work with a mild 4pole motor. Maybe with the updates to the software and stronger bec it may be able to handle a 4 pole motor.

So, raced last night (Ozite carpet and jumps; 12-13 sec laps). 22SCT mid motor setup - 5 Min qualifiers, 7 min main. Using Profile 2, only adjusted throttle PWM to 9600 from 16000. Then I ran a 21/86 pinion spur for first heat. At end of race(fortunately) , the motor quit from protection which was set at 220. Heat gun from outside said 183F in hotspot. Dropped to a 19 pinion (didnt have a 20), ran about 150F when tested with heat gun. ESC stayed at the 110-120F range so no issue there.
What gets weird to me is dropping to a 17 pinion, things start to really heat up again.

Yeah a 19 is what I run. It must of been your PWM that was over heating it cause that will raise the motor temps. 21/87 would cook my 8.5t also.

too high or too low will generate heat. you have to hit the sweet spot.

I, on the other hand, just love the orange color! Got the VTX10 and have a VTX10R BE (black unfortunately haha)) and a VTX8 on the way.

Here are some pics on my orange TLR22 with the orange VTX10. Enjoy...

Love the orange!!!! That 22 looks awesome!!!!

+1 on orange. nobody makes an orange like that! lotsa blue out there and it sure is getting boring

I have a viper 6.5T motor in my 410 and the brakes are really soft. Are the brakes soft with these motors or should I look at esc settings?

The PWM frequency will have more to do with feel than anything, and it can contribute to heat problem. But in my experience, if changing the PWM makes a significant change in temp, then it means that something with gearing / timing isn't right. If the timing and gearing are right, the PWM setting should really just change the feel of the throttle.

As far as gearing down and temps going up, think about it like a car. If it is a 4 speed transmission, but you drive around in 1st gear, it will probably go 50mph in 1st, but it's not going to be efficient and will get hot. Real hot.

Typically too low of gearing will make ESC temps go up, but if it is excessive, it can get the motor hot also.

joedeman - not sure what motor you are running. But I have to ask, how much (if any) warm up laps are you running? You scenario sounds like you are about a tooth over geared, but you might be able to get away with turning the forward power down to 90% (or your radio EPA down to 90%), and / or taking some timing out of the motor itself.

Runnning a Viper esc? If so, some of the profiles in the ESCs come factory defaulted at 80% brake.

Sometimes we have people report this when they are trying to use the brakes on the car to keep the car still on a hill (which no brushless ESC really does well), but they report it works fine on the track.

Also, if you are running a Viper ESC, and you have verified your brake on the ESC is turned up to 100%, you can lower the Brake PWM frequency and this will give you a more aggressive feel. FYI - too high of a brake frequency can make temps go up on the ESC

Ah sorry Im running a R10
Ill have a quick look at the settings in a moment and post back

Best profile for 17.5 blinky in buggy and also best profile for sct 10.5 blinky. I race both of these on a medium bite hard packed outdoor track. Any help would be great.
Thanks

I just had read this strait from the viper programming guide.

The higher the throttle PWM frequency the smoother, more precise feeling. Higher PWM throttle PWM frequency increases motor RPM’s thus increasing motor temperatures.

joedeman - not sure what motor you are running. But I have to ask, how much (if any) warm up laps are you running? You scenario sounds like you are about a tooth over geared, but you might be able to get away with turning the forward power down to 90% (or your radio EPA down to 90%), and / or taking some timing out of the motor itself.[/QUOTE]

Running the 9.5 viper. I put about 2 laps in as a warm up before the race. Sounds like a plan. Yea, I have left the timing on the motor alone, set at 30 from factory.

Correct. And as I said, if timing or gearing are not right, it will go up ALLOT. If the timing / gearing are optimized, you will only see a couple of degree change. If over geared or over timed, you will see a much bigger temp change.