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Old 02-09-2013 | 06:50 AM
  #6871  
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Originally Posted by JJay03
I seen a few esc's go up in flames lately and they wernt vipers.

I decided to resolder my motor wires. I might of went a bit overboard on the solder but I like it better now. Best to tin both sides of the post first I think. I did the middle (B) wire first then the other 2. Not an expert but im getting better lol.

Seeing as that's a Stab at the Other mfg's, I Can Honestly say ive only ever seen ONE Brand of ESC go up in flame and it sure wasn't the Red Army's. In Fact IMO they have the least likely hood of going up in Flames. Other brands, well Not so much,
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Old 02-09-2013 | 07:09 AM
  #6872  
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Originally Posted by mdwalsh



some clearer pics. the car was stationary when it began smoking.

Matt
Ouch.

The servo horn looks to be in close proximity to the wires on the ESC. When you turn left did the horn put any strain on the wires?

Solder tends to wick up the strands of the copper wire which makes them very stiff and any mechanical strain on the wires could easily fatigue the solder joint. This could lead to a loose wire and then a shorted connection.
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Old 02-09-2013 | 08:16 AM
  #6873  
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Servo horn came no where near the leads.

I'm sure the Viper guys will make it right . . . curious if they'll do anything for the ruined body and servo. This was the first run with all of this gear!
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Old 02-09-2013 | 08:18 AM
  #6874  
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Man that burned up ESC just screams "Servo horn shorted out against the wires" from that angle.
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Old 02-09-2013 | 08:22 AM
  #6875  
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Originally Posted by JJay03
I seen a few esc's go up in flames lately and they wernt vipers.

I decided to resolder my motor wires. I might of went a bit overboard on the solder but I like it better now. Best to tin both sides of the post first I think. I did the middle (B) wire first then the other 2. Not an expert but im getting better lol.
Redo B. See how it's dull compared to the other two? That's a cold solder joint compared to a hot joint. Definitely looks like you are getting the hang of it though.

Now when you 'redo' it, make sure you remove the wire, then remove as much of the built up solder from the tab and the wire as you can and start over. Re tin it and you should be good to go. Remember to keep the tip of the iron clean and let it heat back up each time after you clean it.
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Old 02-09-2013 | 08:23 AM
  #6876  
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***

Last edited by zipperfoot; 02-11-2020 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 02-09-2013 | 08:35 AM
  #6877  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Redo B. See how it's dull compared to the other two? That's a cold solder joint compared to a hot joint. Definitely looks like you are getting the hang of it though.

Now when you 'redo' it, make sure you remove the wire, then remove as much of the built up solder from the tab and the wire as you can and start over. Re tin it and you should be good to go. Remember to keep the tip of the iron clean and let it heat back up each time after you clean it.

Hmm I dont get why that would be a cold joint the iron was super hot and it melted on there instantly.
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Old 02-09-2013 | 08:43 AM
  #6878  
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Originally Posted by JJay03
Hmm I dont get why that would be a cold joint the iron was super hot and it melted on there instantly.
cold joint is the term, not necessarily that the iron was cold

but you see the difference in the dull vs shiny..... thats what you are looking for
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Old 02-09-2013 | 08:58 AM
  #6879  
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Originally Posted by mdwalsh



some clearer pics. the car was stationary when it began smoking.

Matt
I have never ever seen this much flame is electric rc from an esc. I doubt even if his arm hit the wires it would cause that. he hardly had any wire exposed and it looks like the servo arm is a good distance above the solder posts.
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Old 02-09-2013 | 09:06 AM
  #6880  
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I just put a Viper in my Tekno for the DNC. Hopefully it fairs better than the pics above. I thought servo horn too. My speedo is rotated 90 degrees CCW from your position.

Best of luck. Viper.....please keep us posted regarding possible causes. The product looks solid but it doesn't seem like there is a lot of support for this speedo yet (team driver's setups, etc).

-Kane
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Old 02-09-2013 | 09:08 AM
  #6881  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
cold joint is the term, not necessarily that the iron was cold

but you see the difference in the dull vs shiny..... thats what you are looking for
Ok thanks im just wondering if its worth it to take it back out and redo it. I got everything mounted and tied away now. I did notice B had a dull look to it. Its still a lot better then what I had before.
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Old 02-09-2013 | 10:25 AM
  #6882  
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Hello
Need quick help for 17.5T and vtx-10R. I miss top speed. Now I am running it in Team-c tm2 buggy gears 26/85, esc profile 5 and have 170-180 F on motor. I have good grip on track. Can somebody help with VTX-10R setup and what timing on motor should I use? By the way ESC on Blinking mode.

Thanks

Last edited by rcq; 02-09-2013 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 02-09-2013 | 11:06 AM
  #6883  
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Originally Posted by Integra
Seeing as that's a Stab at the Other mfg's, I Can Honestly say ive only ever seen ONE Brand of ESC go up in flame and it sure wasn't the Red Army's. In Fact IMO they have the least likely hood of going up in Flames. Other brands, well Not so much,
Seen more than one RX8 melt to the ground. Same with Castle. All brands have their duds when it comes to 1/8th scale ESC's, including Tekin.

If we are talking about personal experience, HW has been by far the most reliable for me.
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Old 02-09-2013 | 12:27 PM
  #6884  
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Here are the pictures of the same exact setup in my Tekno SCT410. Of course, they are the exact same chassis so the distance on the servo horn to the wires is the same distance. Clearly the servo horn was no where near the wires.



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Old 02-09-2013 | 02:38 PM
  #6885  
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Alright 1 more time lol. It appears to have a shiny look to it now. Hope this is up to viper standards. I could use a better iron also im just using a weller 80watt non adjustable. Thanks for the help
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