Cool thanks I need to pick me up a decent iron now or borrow one.

Oh and do you solder it with everything in the chassis or do you take it out and solder it with the motor on the bench.

ok I have a hakko (spelling) 936. It does pretty good, but I may just wait until I get some 12 gauge

Again my Viper system ran GREAT last night with a TQ and win in truck.... VTX10R-BE and 6.5
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...-4-13truck.jpg

ESC OVERHEATING
 

I have 10r 7.5 combo in a b4.1 81/22 gear,the esc gets hot to the point servo tape gets hot esc comes loose from chasiss,no boost or timing added,2 cell shorty lipo,anyone got some input on this.

Wow...I would look for bad solder joints to the motor and battery as well as binding in your drive train. I run the 10BE with an 8.5 in my B4.1 with 81/21 and my esc is barely above ambient after a 10 min main.

Can you get the temp off the esc?

Are you using the ESC Temp setting protection?

Your gearing should be ok, but maybe help with more info?

when I used the parma silicone servo tape I had the same issue. Even 135 deg would cause it to come loose. Not sure if you are using that tape or not, just an fyi.

Disappointed by VST 17.5
 

Hi All,

I recently dropped the VTX10 w/ VST 17.5T into my new 22 sct and was extremely underwhelmed by the performance. I'm running the 78 spur with a 22 pinion and it feels like the truck has very little acceleration. When using the default load outs 1-3 race blinking mode, I have to peg the throttle just to barely clear any jumps on my local track, which is relatively small indoor. If I use load out #4 in race open mode, the truck feels more like what I would have expected, but then I still cant understand why the other trucks in my stock 17.5 class seem to blow me away without being in open mode.

Additionally, if I want to use practice mode, so I can access reverse, I'm back to having horrible performance with un-modded motor settings. Why cant I use boosted settings and have reverse?

Andy help would be greatly appreciated...!

what is the timing at on your 17.5? what are your temps?

Verify you are on a55 firmware, then load profile 1 (for blinky) or 3 for boosted and see if you still have power issues. Every person I have talked to so far who has said they felt the motors lacked power was running old firmware so check that first.

As far as gearing, I don't know the TLR truck but just check with one of the locals who runs it (or someone here can help with gearing).

+1 on the solder joints, but also what battery are you running?

Aren't you geared super low for a 17.5 blinky? Shouldn't you be around 30/78 or something?

Thanks for the reply Bob! I can confirm that I'm using FM ver 5.5. On profile #3 the performance seems great, but if I move to any of the race profile's or practice, the speed/acceleration is terrible. I'm fairly sure my gearing is solid, so I can only assume this motor simply cant compete with others in the stock 17.5 class. I shouldn't have to run boosted, just get over the second hump in a triple jump.

But woudn't moving from a 22 to 30 have less torq/acceleration? (currently not getting any tire slippage). Top speed is not really an issue on the relatively small indoor track I run on.

It's your gearing.

I just googled TLR 22SCT setup sheets and picked the first 17.5 class setup sheet


You can see he's running 28 / 76. http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...up20120805.pdf

Bump your gearing up some and see how it works. Just monitor the temps after a few minutes. Keep the temps under 150 to be safe. Run it on profile 1 if you have a55 frimware. That's the '17.5 blinky' mode

Try this and let me know how it is.