If the esc is running cool, but the motor is hot. How much with the throttle PWM and brake PWM increase/decrease temps? Since switching to the Viper, I have noticed my temps have increased on the motor. I know it is hard to compare apples to oranges, but I really feel like something is off. I also have the small silver caps, I am unsure if larger caps would lower the motor temps or not. My old esc could not adjust the frequencies, just the boost and turbo. So i was thinking this might be where I could do some tuning. I plan to do some testing this weekend in blinky 17.5. So I kinda want to gain a better understanding before I start tuning the motor/esc/gearing.

That is the nature of 17.5 racing. See who wants to run their stuff the hottest and who is willing to buy the most motors.

The drive frequency can have some effect on the ESC temp, and MAY change the motor temps a few degrees, but don't expect much (MAYBE 2 or 3 degrees).

Success in spec / stock racing requires you to set the car up to be as free / loose in the corners (as to not scrub speed) and to get any strait away speed you will have higher gearing to do so. With such high gearing, you will have to drive in a matter as not to "yank" the trigger much, you have to roll on and off the gas. Yanking it will just make heat. Also, turn the punch down on the ESC to no more than 30 or 40%, you are just pushing amps the motor can't handle anyways.

I went to the Chi-Town Shootout last year, and the central mid-west has a VERY large following of 17.5 Buggy in it, there were guys that would run their motors 2-runs and then put new rotors in them. They would gear so high that the car was as fast as mod, but they didn't care if the motor got to 240 degrees, they would just change the rotor before it came apart from the heat.

I didnt even think about the punch. yeah, I am running 100% punch and I dont even think I ran that much with my last esc. Maybe that is where I am getting so much heat.

is it possible to run 10 gauge wire on the vtx10? I ordered 10 instead of 12 by accident

It is possible.

I asked a about profiles for my b44.2 last week, last page...
I I ended up on profile 2 but I dialed the punch back to 80% rather than 100.
And it was so great! For now I will leave it there as it out performed my expectations! Maybe change something later but for now :) happy.
Thanks viper! Stoked

Glad it worked!

Nice!!! :nod: :tire::tire::tire:

got my vtx8 yesterday, cant wait to wire it up today.

so i just got my vtx10 black edition for christmas along with my tlr22sct i love the way that the motor and battery leads come pre soldered to save me time however i hate the fact that the leads on the capacitor are so long.... ive been considering shortening them but how much of a bitch is it to re solder to the board.... im very good with my soldering work but it looks intimidating since im just used to soldering to the leads like on my tekin or old speed passion reventon... suggestions or tips?

thanks in advance guys cant wait to try the viper product line out!

Oops, nvm. I thought you meant motor wires.

I myself have un-soldered them and have laid them down on the capacitor board so they go out horizontally vs vertically, BUT I have not changed the length on the leads. In a warranty situation, I don't know how that would be looked at.

It is possible yes, BUT make sure you are using the hottest soldering iron you can get your hands on. A cheap one that doesn't get very hot will force you to put the iron on the terminals alot longer than you would with 12GA, and you can damage the ESC if you hold it on there too long. You souldn't be on the terminals for more than about 10 seconds in my opinion.

Was trying to figure out how to run the motor wires on mine. Think Ill do somethin like this.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...ps340af874.jpg

Jay, that is how I run them.

We really dont recommend to shorten the leads. Part of the reason of the length is to help place it around the chassis the other is that surely the amount of resistance involved is designed into the system.

And Dave is right - the better the iron, the easier it is to do any type do solder work.