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Brad, little strange that it ran for 5 minutes (or more) and then would stop. Anything strange happen at the end of the first run? How did it temp out?
Always do the basics first - check all our connections, try different battery, see if anything stands out. But of course we warranty anything that would have a defect. Actually had a very qualified racer who had an issue recently, it turned out to be one of his bullet connectors was coming un-soldered. Contact us if you have any more questions. |
Originally Posted by nikos2002
(Post 10926727)
madweazl - can't speak for other companies, but the top of our unit is a heat sink, so if you are using a temp gun on the top of the unit, it could be a little higher than some. As long as its not tripping the internal cut off (internal temp is much higher than what you will read on the outside), you should be OK, I have run my esc hotter at times.
8º difference is motor temp isn't that different, there are lots of things that can do that. Biggest question would be track performance, did you get everything you needed out of the set up? And we do see people who don't push the button hard enough - or don't wait for the steps of start up to finish before they expect the next thing to happen. Same thing happens to some people during calibration. |
Originally Posted by madweazl
(Post 10928397)
Seemed to work OK but found it interesting that it was so much warmer than the Tekin. Sure like the adjustable BEC voltage, just wish I could crank it up even higher.
Curious to know how high you would like the BEC to go to?? And why? |
Does the thick double sided tape that comes with the esc fall off for anyone else within 1 run?
I do like the thickness though... |
No! I have it in three trucks w/ about 10 to 15 runs on each with no problems!
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The tape on mine is still holding strong and I've got more runs on it than I can count. I always take a rag with either Simple Green or Dawn dishwashing detergent and clean the surface of where I'm placing it first though. Just like it says, it cuts grease out of the way.
I also use a cup of warm water and Dawn to clean the grease that Losi puts in the diffs from the factory if I get one that has grease in it. I always open the diff, and let it soak overnight. Then when I go to clean it out before putting fluid in them, the grease just literally pours right out. Then I use cotton swabs to get the little residue out. Makes getting the grease out sooo much easier. Not quite sure how the wife likes her dishwashing detergent coming up missing, but it sure works!!! |
its always the top sticky part of the pad that peels off for me, leaving the pad on the chassis and sticky stuff on the bottom of the esc. Then dirt gets stuck to the bottom of the esc and the whole thing comes loose.
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just like mentioned above, I always make sure the chassis and the esc are cleaned off before attaching. sometimes you get pieces that just dont want to stick, or if you had any oil on your fingers when you placed it on the chassis or esc, it can effect the hold. Personally, I always find the bigger rush I am in, the harder it is to get any servo tape to hold. Like is knows your going to be late for your heat race.
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I choose to use rubbing alcohol before mounting sticky tape or velcro..Kind of drys out the plastic.
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[esc]
[adhesive] this is where it separates [pad] [adhesive] [chassis] I use dual lock these days... |
Powered up my VTX10 today and the Neutral light blinks with a fast beeping tone after it goes through the power up process and continues to do this. After it decides to stop the Reverse light Blinks while it's in Neutral, I pull the throttle and when i release it goes back to the Reverse Light Blinking. Any Idea?
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Dub - it can't find neutral from your radio signal. Change your throttle trim 2-3 clicks either direction and re-calibrate (make sure your endpoints are at 100). If it keeps happening, you may want to use a different model number on your radio (they each send out different levels of signal) or even re-bind your radio and receiver to make sure the signal is clear.
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I had that happen on one of mine the esc isn't finding Neutral i had to take the throttle trim forward 29 on my DX3s and the green light came on in the Neutral piston all is good now so try forward and back wards on the trim and see if that helps.
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That was it, It's fine now... Thanks Guys!!
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99
(Post 10903095)
Hey everyone - new Viper (motor) guy here.
I bought a new 8.5 for my 1/10th Tamiya 4WD and plan to use it on a large outdoor hard clay track. I had it out this weekend and it was kind of a dog. I was running it with my Tekin RS - basically blinky w/15* timing. I had the same gearing as my LRP 9.5 - which I had boosted and it was no where near as fast - in fact, it seemed like it was missing a sensor wire (it was not) - ya know, just not able to stretch it's legs, topping out in third gear - so to speak. Versus my LRP, should I start with gearing up from a 19T to a 21-22T and/or add some boost? I got an 8.5 as my 9.5 was boosted and even turbo'd so I figured more motor was as good as one max'd out. Thanks in advance - beautiful motor, great packaging - now can someone help me get it to come alive! I'm running a Tamiya DB01R - it runs a 91T spur, with an internal ratio of 2.055...I know there is more in this motor, any ideas? 25T? 40* on the can? Turbo? |
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