jrj- if your significantly looser than usual you will get more wheel spin which is making the motor work harder than normal. Could happen with poor track conditions, or worn out tires. Definitely check the drive train also. Lots of variables every time we run.

Updates in parts sourcing, few things we learned - like if we solder wires on the esc it helps a large majority of customer issues. Not really a faster slower thing- more than learning as we grow.

Will you still have them without the wires attached? I've found I've had to out the wires at an angle or even flat to the esc on a few applications (1/12th, 2wd buggy) to clear the shell and just for neatness...

R?
 

What is the difference between the vtx10 and vtx10r?

6.5T

The VTX10r has no motor limit. The VTX10 is rated for motors up to 6.5.

The VTX10R has slightly less On Resistance as well 0.00025 *2 vs. 0.00045 *2
and is slightly taller Dimensions: 30x32.5x19.5mm vs. 30x32.5x14.5mm

Is the boost number similiar to that of my tekin? Meaning if I run 45 boost on my Tekin RS 13.5 is that close to 45 boost in the viper vtx10?

I need to upgrade my vtx10 to A19 so how do you go about doing that.

The Viper timing is measured in degrees of timing. I think (not 100% sure) that the Tekin measures theirs in a percentage. For example, a setting of 50 means 50% of the max boost (which if I remember right is 30 degrees, so a setting of 50 = 15 degrees of boost).

I would recommend that you read the Tekin instructions to verify though.

The wires will come soldered, but if you are happy with your iron skills and want to change them, go ahead. We just found a certain number of customers who didn't have experience using irons. Some its caused issues with the unit, others had hobby shops attach them. We just wanted to make is easier for them. If you are used to doing it, change it as want.

First you need the PC Link cable (part number 6VSPCLINK1). You can download the "simple" program to update the firmware on our website. Go to the speed control and you will see the application and the latest software. Down load both to your computer.

- write down all your current settings (the update will reset everything to factory)
- set up your car with a battery like you would to run it.
- open the program
- attach the PC Link to your VTX, turn it on and put it "link" mode - like you are using the progauge.
- On the program under COM - select USBO
- you should see that the program shows your VTX is connected
- select the file you want to update (remember where you downloaded it before)
- select upgrade - the bar will show you the progress.
- when done, disconnect, unplug your battery in the car.
- reconnect battery and go through calibration process with your radio
- change any settings you want using the Progauge and have fun racing!!!

PM me if you have more questions.

Another sad day for the RC industry. Have we really regressed to the point that we're too retarded to solder properly?

Havent installed the unit yet but first impressions get a big thumbs up!

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...eazl/Viper.jpg

Thanks nikos ill order the link cable and do that.

Its a different world---- :deathstar:deathstar
- no more timing your batteries with light bulbs to see which would last longer
- no cutting comm's every couple of runs
- no soldering = batteries together, in and out of the car, brushes

You know what I do miss ---- "Who's on 78!!!!!!!!!!" :ha::ha::ha:

Its the world we live in -- you can still un-solder the wires and solder them back on if it makes you feel better.