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Originally Posted by shagnat
(Post 11680032)
4 pole. Cannot imagine an 1/8 scale running a 2 pole motor. I'd be mighty weak in an RC that big.
I couldnt get a 2 pole motor to work right in a 4wd slash not enough power.:( Im very surprized i didnt kill my motor running it in that. Anyone have any thoughts on the copperhead motors? I hear they are pretty good for 4wd corr trucks. |
Originally Posted by ???E-Racer
(Post 11680823)
Yeah you have to have 4 pole motors for modified 4wd Corr also.
I couldnt get a 2 pole motor to work right in a 4wd slash not enough power.:( Im very surprized i didnt kill my motor running it in that. Anyone have any thoughts on the copperhead motors? I hear they are pretty good for 4wd corr trucks. |
http://www.rcsoup.com/2013/01/viper-...g-term-review/
and some video of us running this system in the SSC Slash this past summer
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For my SC10 4X4 should I get the 4600 or the 5150 copperhead system.
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Originally Posted by JJay03
(Post 11679339)
Its indoor clay prob medium bite to high bite with some decent jumps prob made for 1/8th scale. I will be going through the trans and putting in all new avid bearings and redoing the diff as soon as my bearings come in the mail. I also set my motor protection at 200 degrees.
I was having issues also with lag between forward and reverse. I recalibrated the esc and it seems a bit better but then it seemed like the steering was glitching in reverse. I hope to get back to the track by this weekend. If not, then I will shut up now :lol: Also check the gear mesh... sounds dumb, but this gets overlooked alot. If it's too tight you will heat it up quick and you'll also feel like you have about 10000% too much drag brake :D |
What's the difference between the vtx10r and the BE fan kits? Just the height of the bracket?
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Well the trans was not binding so that was not why it got to 170. Dont think it would get that hot after a race this was a full 6000mah battery during practice.
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ok I set up my copperhead in 5 race mode it running backward what do I need to do
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Switch two of the motor wires, then try again. Since its not sensored that can be plugged in backwards.
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Originally Posted by JJay03
(Post 11682718)
Well the trans was not binding so that was not why it got to 170. Dont think it would get that hot after a race this was a full 6000mah battery during practice.
Just remember, that running that long is ok, but repeated temps of 170 or so can weaken the magnet. I tend to test no longer than whatever the main length is. |
Dave beat me to the other answer. :(. :)
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Originally Posted by FLHX1550
(Post 11683792)
If you are running a charged battery from start to finish (15 minutes) and temps are only 170, then you are fine for racing.
Just remember, that running that long is ok, but repeated temps of 170 or so can weaken the magnet. I tend to test no longer than whatever the main length is. |
Like Dave said. I practice no longer then my mains are. Set a 10 minute timer on the radio and go for it. That way you will have optimum track time on the same gearing you will run in your mains.
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Yeah im going to try a 19t also and see how I like it.
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Whats a good combo of motor and esc timing. I notice the motor comes with 30 degrees what would be different if the motor was just zero and the esc added 30degrees?
Im guessing its sort of like getting a camshaft for a car with some timing added then being able to also up the timing in the ecm. |
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