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Old 12-26-2012 | 01:10 AM
  #6421  
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
Howabout a 7.5 in a 4wd buggy?
profile 2. Just tweak your motor pwm and brakes. I posted my settings 10 posts above.
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Old 12-26-2012 | 04:50 AM
  #6422  
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Profile 2 is the most conservative out of the box, and to me, is probably the best factory profile to start with in just about any given application. It has no boost / timing added to it, the dynamic brake is turned off, and punch is down to 60%.

But to get the most out of the system you need either a ProGauge or a Pc-Link. The VTX line of ESCs once you know how to use the settings, is the most potent line of ESC's in the market, one just needs to test and experiment to utilize it.
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Old 12-26-2012 | 06:56 AM
  #6423  
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Sorry, I meant to say I use Profile 1 on mod motors, I have a 8.5 in my B4 and a 6.5 in my 44.
Profile 1 is blinky
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Old 12-26-2012 | 07:21 AM
  #6424  
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Originally Posted by DoogieLee
Sorry, I meant to say I use Profile 1 on mod motors, I have a 8.5 in my B4 and a 6.5 in my 44.
Profile 1 is blinky
Profile 1 and 2 are both technically blinky. 1 is setup with 100% punch by default, 2 60% by default. I don't remember off the top of my head if there were any other differences, but that is the main difference.

I know that when I was running 17.5 and mod with the same car, I was just flipping back and forth between profile 1 and 2. What is cool is that if you forget to swap profiles, you are still legal for blinky racing. I actually did do that one round. Ran 17.5 with profile 2. It wasn't ideal, but it wasn't horrible either. I would much rather have that happen then realize I wasn't in blinky mode AFTER a run
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Old 12-26-2012 | 08:05 AM
  #6425  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Profile 1 and 2 are both technically blinky. 1 is setup with 100% punch by default, 2 60% by default. I don't remember off the top of my head if there were any other differences, but that is the main difference.

I know that when I was running 17.5 and mod with the same car, I was just flipping back and forth between profile 1 and 2. What is cool is that if you forget to swap profiles, you are still legal for blinky racing. I actually did do that one round. Ran 17.5 with profile 2. It wasn't ideal, but it wasn't horrible either. I would much rather have that happen then realize I wasn't in blinky mode AFTER a run
Good to know! Thanks for the heads up
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Old 12-26-2012 | 10:20 AM
  #6426  
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Thanks guys, maybe Ill post back on what I liked in a week or so after I get some laps under my belt.
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Old 12-26-2012 | 02:52 PM
  #6427  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Profile 1 and 2 are both technically blinky. 1 is setup with 100% punch by default, 2 60% by default. I don't remember off the top of my head if there were any other differences, but that is the main difference.

I know that when I was running 17.5 and mod with the same car, I was just flipping back and forth between profile 1 and 2. What is cool is that if you forget to swap profiles, you are still legal for blinky racing. I actually did do that one round. Ran 17.5 with profile 2. It wasn't ideal, but it wasn't horrible either. I would much rather have that happen then realize I wasn't in blinky mode AFTER a run
Interesting. I recall accidentally bumping my vtx10 into profile 1 via th button (rb5/vtx10/8.5) and it lost pretty much all power, was like driving a 17.5 blinky...

Can't recall if this was on A30 or A55 though.
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Old 12-26-2012 | 03:01 PM
  #6428  
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Originally Posted by silvalis
Interesting. I recall accidentally bumping my vtx10 into profile 1 via th button (rb5/vtx10/8.5) and it lost pretty much all power, was like driving a 17.5 blinky...

Can't recall if this was on A30 or A55 though.
I have never driven A30 but I know plenty who have and from all accounts, you simply can't compare the two. So anytime anyone says anything or asks any questions, it's important to establish if they are on A55 or not. If not, that has to be the first step. Get them on it.

Oh and if you make that mistake on A55 with an 8.5, you'll know it! 100% when you expect 60% is....ummmmm... interesting
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Old 12-30-2012 | 02:41 PM
  #6429  
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ok how about some easy to drive low temp setups for the vtx10 and 8.5 motor
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Old 12-30-2012 | 04:16 PM
  #6430  
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Leave it on profile 1, Throttle Freq about 9600, punch 80 - set the brakes to your preference. Should be a middle of the road set up that is good on temps depending on gearing. Most overheating will come from overgearing or running too long.
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Old 12-30-2012 | 05:20 PM
  #6431  
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hey all. So another weekend at the track. The viper esc is feeling pretty good so far. But I have 2 questions.

1) What is causing me to have ZERO brakes at very low rpm? I was on a slight incline and the sc10 started to roll, so I pushed on the brakes and nothing. I get some braking at higher speeds, but nothing at very low.

2) So my esc is running at like 95deg and my motor is at 159 deg. This is with a 13.5 in my sc10 geared 22/81. It was running at 135 but, my slipped was too lose and I had no snap for 180 into doubles. So I gave the slipper 1 full turn and not the motors is hot by my standards. I am used to 115 deg with boost and turbo.


I am running the stock profile 3 with 10pct drag and 5 slew. Everything else is default. Motor timing is 20 deg. I dunno if this helps but the motor is a reedy sonic. I have owned a few reedys and they always ran cool for me.
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Old 12-31-2012 | 01:51 AM
  #6432  
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hey guys, my button came apart. it works but like the bottom bit broke off from the top main bit. Can i just glue them with ca glue back together?
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Old 12-31-2012 | 02:43 AM
  #6433  
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Originally Posted by OMG23RC
hey guys, my button came apart. it works but like the bottom bit broke off from the top main bit. Can i just glue them with ca glue back together?
That's what I did. Now I make sure to put downward pressure on it when unplugging my progauge..... just to be safe.
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Old 12-31-2012 | 07:43 AM
  #6434  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
hey all. So another weekend at the track. The viper esc is feeling pretty good so far. But I have 2 questions.

1) What is causing me to have ZERO brakes at very low rpm? I was on a slight incline and the sc10 started to roll, so I pushed on the brakes and nothing. I get some braking at higher speeds, but nothing at very low.

2) So my esc is running at like 95deg and my motor is at 159 deg. This is with a 13.5 in my sc10 geared 22/81. It was running at 135 but, my slipped was too lose and I had no snap for 180 into doubles. So I gave the slipper 1 full turn and not the motors is hot by my standards. I am used to 115 deg with boost and turbo.


I am running the stock profile 3 with 10pct drag and 5 slew. Everything else is default. Motor timing is 20 deg. I dunno if this helps but the motor is a reedy sonic. I have owned a few reedys and they always ran cool for me.
1 - try lowering your brake freq, everything is relative to speed, if you lowered your brake power or raised the freq to be little softer at speed, it will be softer when slow as well.

2 - tighter slipper, now motor is working harder because your actually putting the power down -- more heat. That's not a horrible temp, but a little lower would be nice. Try lower slew little, or slightly raise throttle freq.
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Old 12-31-2012 | 07:45 AM
  #6435  
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I don't know how you guys knock out the button -- in two and half years I haven't done that

Just make sure you push down, not an angle. Someone else told me they glue'd it, but be careful, not too much glue.
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